EXCLUSIVE: Renzo Rosso Visits China, Bolsters Ties With Local Creatives

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SHANGHAI — “I love this country. I miss this country a lot,” exclaimed Renzo Rosso, who spoke to WWD in an exclusive interview in Chengdu at the end of his three-day China trip last Friday.

It has been more than three years since the Diesel and OTB Group founder last visited China, one of the most important markets for the “alternative luxury” group, which owns Diesel, Maison Margiela, Jil Sander, Marni and Viktor&Rolf, among others.

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“Every brand is doing super well,” said Rosso, citing double-digit growth in the China market. Rosso credits the growth to retail expansion and collaborations initiated with local talent that helped amplify the brand’s presence in the market.

“Stores in China are the future. It’s becoming more and more a place of entertainment. It’s not just a place to sell, but where you can show who you are, your lifestyle,” Rosso said.

Renzo Rosso with the team in China
Renzo Rosso with the team in China.

During his self-described “learning trip” in the country, Rosso visited retail partners in Shanghai, Nanjing and Chengdu, spent time with the local team, and hosted a dinner with emerging Chinese designers, including Chen Peng, who recently unveiled a collaboration with MM6; Dingyun Zhang, who recently worked with Marni, and Ruohan Nie, who was a finalist of the Yu Prize last year.

Also invited to the gathering were Sun Zhe, the newly appointed editor in chief at Elle China, and Chinese influencers Mia Kong and Cici Xiang.

“I want to be back soon and spend more time meeting people, sharing opinions and taking inspiration from this country,” Rosso enthused. “Everyone is so energetic, so different, it would be super nice to work together more.”

After a day in Shanghai, Rosso left for Nanjing to meet with more retailers. In the evening, he landed in Suzhou, where Diesel launched a pop-up at Yanlord Cangjie, a mixed-use retail development in the historic city.

“The most beautiful impression I had last night was from the beautiful Diesel community, all these young people wearing Diesel,” Rosso said. “As the founder of Diesel, I’m happy to see how Glenn Martens transformed the brand with modernity. It’s becoming a couture-denim brand.”

Diesel pop-up at Yanlord Cangjie, Suzhou
Diesel pop-up at Yanlord Cangjie in Suzhou, China.

Rosso is among a band of luxury and fashion executives who have visited the China market post-reopening.

In early February, Kering chief François-Henri Pinault was one of the first luxury executives to visit China.

During Shanghai Fashion Week, Salvatore Ferragamo‘s CEO Marco Gobbetti, and creative director Maximilian Davis were in town to conduct store visits and host intimate gatherings with local creatives.

Ludivine Pont, chief marketing director at Balenciaga, also took her first China trip since being appointed in 2021, while John Idol, CEO of Capri Holdings, and his team also have visited the country in the past month.

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