Exclusive: Drunk Elephant Launches A-Passioni Retinol Cream, the Brand's First-Ever Retinol Product

Karina Hoshikawa
We've got the first look at the brand's first-ever retinol.

It's hardly a secret that when it comes to skin-smoothing and overall glow-boosting, retinol is many dermatologists' favorite ingredient. The vitamin A derivative is among the most-heavily studied ingredients in modern skin care and can address a multitude of concerns, including fine lines and acne. However, despite all of its glowing reviews, it continues to live under a certain level of controversy due to its potency, which for many, can sometimes cause dryness, irritation, and peeling if your skin isn't used to it. Enter, Drunk Elephant, to the retinol rescue.

"When I launched Drunk Elephant, I didn't understand retinol," Tiffany Masterson, founder of Drunk Elephant, exclusively tells Allure. "As a consumer myself, I was intimidated by it and had retinol on my list of ingredients not to use, because retinol appeared to be unsafe in certain circumstances, like pregnancy." However, leave it to Masterson to rise to the challenge and create a retinol product with a signature DE spin. Thus, A-Passioni Retinol Cream was born.

Much like her fan-favorite serums and moisturizers, Masterson's first foray into retinols marries potent actives with gentle ingredients to create a formula that works — and works well, might we add — without causing adverse reactions. "I wanted to use bioavailable oils like passionfruit, apricot, jojoba, and marula," Masterson explains. "[The retinol] is encased in this emollient, soothing blend of skin-compatible and nourishing ingredients — somehow it doesn't feel intimidating and shocking like some retinoids and for me, I feel very in control using it."

The texture is creamy and absorbs readily into skin, and according to the brand, was formulated to be cocktailed with other Drunk Elephant serums and oils for a supercharged boost. (In fact, a miniature vial of B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum is included in the box.) After two weeks of testing, it held up to its claims of skin-smoothing and brightening. My hyperpigmentation was visibly reduced, and I'd even noticed fewer cystic acne breakouts. Over time, A-Passioni also helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and sun damage. However, it should be noted that while it's a gentle formula, A-Passioni, like all retinols, shouldn't be applied near the eye area.

If you're particularly savvy when it comes to formulation, you may have noticed that the cream's hero ingredient is a vegan retinol. And we know what some of you may be thinking, "I didn't realize retinol...wasn't vegan?" As it turns out, retinol can be derived from plant, animal, or synthetic sources, according to cosmetic chemist Zoia Lascu.

"Vegan formulations are, by definition, gentler and less complex than conventional skin care, which translates to results that are easily anticipated," she says, adding that plant-sourced retinols are typically derived from beta-carotenoids found in green botanicals and colored fruits. "The lack of synthetic and animal ingredients in vegan skin care avoids potential risks of skin sensitivity and exhibit higher bioavailability — which means long-term efficacy."

Additionally, Drunk Elephant fans will notice that the packaging for A-Passioni is unlike anything else the brand has offered before. Unlike the airless pumps that encase the brand's C-Firma Day Serum and Lala Retro Whipped Cream Facial Moisturizer, Masterson opted for a metal tube to hold her latest launch.

"It's a hard metal foil, similar to that which is used for prescription retinoids, like tretinoin," says Masterson. "That type of foil material is actually much better for protecting the ingredients in this formula from light and air."

What does that mean, exactly? Well, similarly to fragrances, retinols can decompose and oxidize when exposed to air and UV light, which can lead to reduced efficacy. "Aluminum laminate tubes typically meet all criteria," says Lascu. "They prevent oxygen incorporation into the product, and are highly compatible with retinol chemistry."

However, formula and packaging aside, perhaps the essence of A-Passioni is crystallized in its very name. "It came from the passionfruit in the formula," Masterson reveals, adding that the name is a nod to the Swahili word for "passion". "And I like the fact that 'passioni' positions this retinol as a lover, not a fighter. It feels like a more gentle, loving retinol for your skin."

A-Passioni will retail for $74, and launches December 26 in-store and online at Sephora, and on January 2 at drunkelephant.com.

With additional reporting from Allure's Sarah Kinonen.

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