Everything You've Ever Wanted to Know About Crochet Braids, According to Celeb Stylists

From Cosmopolitan

Quick question: Have you ever seen someone whose beauty game is so g'damn good that you instantly feel inspired to switch up your look? After I saw pics of actress Kiki Layne in a green and silver sequin Gucci gown and sculptural faux locs at the LACMA Gala in Los Angeles last month, I was basically in awe of her risk-taking approach to fashion and beauty. So, in true millennial fashion, I hopped on Insta immediately to find out who created her stunning crochet hairstyle.

Turns out, Larry Sims, who counts Gabrielle Union, Zendaya, Regina King, and Danai Gurira (#CASUAL) as loyal clients, is the man behind Layne's statement-making, dual-orbital hairstyle I couldn't stop thinking about. And as someone who typically wears beach waves, I immediately felt compelled to reach out to Sims to get the tea on literally everything I needed to know about crochet braids and curly crochet hairstyles. Ahead, everything I've learned about crochet braids, along with expert-approved tips and tricks for keeping your natural-hair game on point.

What exactly are crochet braids?

You know how extensions are typically sewed into your braids? Like the name suggests, crochet braids consist of synthetic hair that's crocheted into your hair. "They usually go from the front of your head to the back in a sort of cornrow style," says Sims. Crochet braids are a great protective styling option for naturalistas because you can switch up your hair color, length, texture, and style without compromising your natural curl pattern. You can still quickly get to your scalp and keep it clean when you're shampooing—and, even better, crochet braids don't require heat styling, which is always a win if you're trying to retain length.

How long does it take to install crochet braids?

Unlike box braids, which can easily take six to eight hours to complete, you can expect to spend anywhere between 90 minutes to three hours in the salon chair when getting a crochet hairstyle. One of the perks of crochet braids is that you can buy individual braids in a pack, which can save plenty of time. If you want shoulder-length hair that’s cornrowed in the back with individual braids in the front, you’ll be done in two hours max, says Sims. Going longer? You can tack on about another hour to your salon time.

What's the best crochet braiding hair?

Fortunately for your budget's sake, crochet braids don't require human hair—you can hit up your local beauty supply shop or Amazon for synthetic hair. Cost aside, human hair typically has less slippage compared to synthetic hair—which isn't necessarily the look you're going for with crochet braids. "The longer you wear synthetic crochet braids, the more bohemian it looks—it morphs into this messy, really cool texture that's super modern," says Sims. "Human hair can give you a similar effect, but it doesn't last as long."

How many packs of hair do I need for a full head of crochet?

Now that you know synthetic hair is your best bet for crochet braids, the amount of hair you need depends on the exact look you want to achieve. Typically, this can be between four to eight packs, according to the pros. If you're going for, say, Solange-worthy knee-length hair, you're likely looking at 10 packs of hair for both length and body.

How much do crochet braids cost?

The three most significant factors that determine the price for crochet braids and curly crochet hairstyles are how much experience the hairstylist has, the location, and of course, what style you're looking to recreate. If you're willing to drop some serious $$$ for a celebrity hairstylist, you can expect to pay upwards of $500 to $600.

If you're like me and your budget is a necessity, don't sweat it—you can find hairstylists in your city that charge a more attainable rate of around $100 to $300 for crochet braids, says Stacey Ciceron, hairstylist and Orbie brand ambassador. If you're located in Harlem or Chicago, Sims adds that you can definitely find salons offering crochet braids for $75 to $100. At the end of the day, it's worth doing a little research to find the best salon for your needs.

How long do crochet braids last?

Typically crochet braids last between four to six weeks, and you can always leave the center in a little longer and touch up the front (aka the parameters of your hairline) so it looks fresh. Sims employs this exact technique on his clients, including Layne. Even though you might be tempted to leave your crochet braids in even longer, pls don't—keeping your braids in too long can lead to some serious damage (more on that in a bit).

How do you take care of crochet braids at night?

"Night maintenance is key to preserving crochet braids," says Ciceron. She suggests wrapping or covering your hair in a silk or satin bonnet before you go to bed "to reduce any friction in your sleep and to maintain moisture in the hair." When your hair gets dry, spritz on a moisturizing and/or shine-enhancing spray to liven up your braids, she adds.

Do crochet braids damage your hair?

Crochet braids are considered a protective hairstyle for a reason. But even though they don't damage your hair, it's all about proper maintenance and making sure your hair is healthy before it's braided down. The pros biggest tips include using a gentle co-wash, hydrating your hair with a deep conditioner, and using a scalp tonic. Also, don't be afraid to speak up if your braider does your cornrows too tight (which can cause more damage than good). Most importantly, don't plan on leaving your crochet hairstyle in for longer than six weeks, which can cause time-consuming pains like hair matting.

Can you DIY crochet braids?

If braiding isn't really your thing, you'll definitely want to head to a pro to get your crochet braids installed. That said, if you're fairly comfortable cornrowing your hair—and have a little patience—there's no harm in attempting crochet braids at home. Above all, since crochet braids are a protective hairstyle, you'll want to make sure your hair is healthy and prepped before you do an-y-thing.

That means using a moisturizing shampoo and deep conditioner before your hair is blow-dried and stretched out, says Ciceron. "After you create cornrow braids as your base, you'll add in your hair extensions with a crochet hook." YouTube tutorials are a great place to start, BTW.

The Bottom Line

Crochet braids are a versatile protective hairstyle that won't damage your natural hair, as long as your show your locks some TLC with regular shampooing, deep conditioning treatments, and regular upkeep (i.e. you should always remove your crochet braids within six weeks). Now, if you'll excuse me, I need to DM my braider my fave crochet inspo pics for my next appointment.

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