Everything You Need to Know About Hyaluronic Acid

In the ever-expanding universe of skincare, there's an overwhelming selection of ingredients, each claiming to be deserving of a special place on our vanity. As consumers, we’re becoming more discerning thanks to information literally available at our fingertips—we seek out products and ingredients that genuinely make a difference (not just say they will).

Enter hyaluronic acid—a star ingredient that has emerged as a standout and crowd favorite. Its reputation, backed by both science and glowing testimonials, has led it to be considered one of the most effective and readily available skincare ingredients today.

Often heralded as a "hydration miracle worker,” hyaluronic acid has secured its position as an irreplaceable staple in skincare routines around the world. One might wonder what grants hyaluronic acid this status in a market flooded with other promising candidates. In this article, we explore the ins and outs of hyaluronic acid, tapping into experts for every nugget of information you need to know before adding it to your cart and, ultimately, your skincare routine.

What is Hyaluronic Acid, and How Does It Work in Skincare?

Hyaluronic acid transcends being just another skincare buzzword. A naturally occurring molecule, it is abundant in our bodies, with a significant amount present in our skin, aka our largest organ. But what exactly is its role? As Dr. Azadeh Shirazi, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of AziMD Skincare, eloquently puts it, it's the "key molecule in skin hydration and tissue repair." This magical sugar molecule plays a pivotal role in retaining our skin's moisture, structure, and resilience.

But how does hyaluronic acid differentiate from other moisturizing agents? According to Jordan Samuel Pacitti, an esteemed esthetician and Founder and CEO of Jordan Samuel Skin, "Hyaluronic acid is considered a humectant, so it will act similarly to glycerin, sodium PCA, and other water-binding agents. Its job is to attract and hold onto water, helping to prevent moisture loss in the skin. It can have a temporary plumping effect on the skin as well." Besides its ability to attract and retain moisture while plumping the skin, hyaluronic acid is also tolerated and suitable for all skin types and most skin conditions, making it even more attractive.

Hyaluronic Acid's Benefits for Skin

While hyaluronic acid is primarily celebrated as a hydration hero, its host of benefits doesn't stop there. Beyond moisturizing, it offers remarkable benefits like increased skin elasticity, a reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and a youthful, dewy complexion. And the best part? As Pacitti elaborates, unless one has a specific sensitivity or allergy, “hyaluronic acid can be tolerated and beneficial for almost all skin types and conditions."

Dr. Shirazi echoes this sentiment with enthusiasm, stating that from the driest to even the oiliest skins, all can harness the advantages of integrating hyaluronic products into their skincare regime. She adds, "It improves skin flexibility, allowing [the skin] to stretch and flex. It also helps plump up skin cells, instantly  improving fine lines and wrinkles, and plays a role in wound healing."

Incorporating Hyaluronic Acid into Skincare Routines

Wondering how to seamlessly incorporate hyaluronic acid into your daily skincare ritual? Pacitti offers a simple guideline—dedicated hyaluronic acid products, which are predominantly available as serums, should be applied ”after cleansing (or toning if you use a toner) and before your moisturizer." And when it comes to playing well with other skincare superheroes? Hyalouronic acid is impressively versatile. From retinol and peptides to antioxidants, it complements and works synergistically with a wide array of skincare ingredients.

However, Dr. Reshmi Kapoor, a board-certified dermatologist and owner and founder of Brooklyn Dermatology in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, advises looking past merely hyaluronic acid on the list when choosing a product to add to your routine.  When looking for moisturizers with hyaluronic acid, she offers the following advice:

“Find [a moisturizer] that pairs [hyaluronic acid] with an occlusive ingredient [such as petrolatum, silicone, shea butter, and squalane oil, for example] as well. The reasoning is that topical hyaluronic acid is sitting in the superficial layers of the skin and drawing in moisture from deeper layers of the skin, which can evaporate and lead to water loss if an occlusive is not present to lock in that moisture.” Think of an occlusive as saran wrap that keeps all of that drawn moisture preserved in the skin.

Dr. Shirazi shares additional insights, emphasizing that for optimal results, she recommends hyaluronic acid-based products being applied to damp skin and then sealed in with a moisturizer. She also provides tailored product recommendations—water or gel-based hyaluronic acid formulations for those with oily skin and richer cream or oil-infused ones for those with drier skin.

Choosing the Right Hyaluronic Acid Products

Given the vast array of products on the market, making the right choice in a hyaluronic acid product can be overwhelming. Pacitti simplifies the process by recommending simply looking for products containing the ingredient listed as  ”Hyaluronic Acid,” “Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid”, or “Sodium Hyaluronate,” noting that concentration is not the most important factor—efficacy is. Pacitti recommends finding a hydrating serum that features other complementing ingredients such as other humectants and soothing ingredients (his favorite being Hydrate Facial Serum from Jordan Samuel Skin.)

On the flip side, Dr. Shirazi stresses an often overlooked aspect —understanding molecular weights, which she explains can significantly influence both the product's price point and its efficacy. “Skincare companies break hyaluronic acid down hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid so that it can better penetrate into the skin. The issue is a high amount of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid or hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid can actually cause inflammation and irritation so it’s best to look for products with multiple forms of hyaluronic acid,” urges Dr. Shirazi.

Addressing Common Concerns and Misconceptions

Dr. Shirazi clarifies a frequent misconception. Many mistakenly perceive hyaluronic acid as an exfoliating agent due to its “acid” moniker. Contrary to this belief, it's a robust hydrator, and its benefits are amplified when sealed with a moisturizer. So, while the name is misleading, hyaluronic acid, in fact, doesn’t exfoliate the skin.

Pacitti touches on another myth—the use of hyaluronic acid in different climates. He explains, “People in humid climates will definitely benefit from the use of hyaluronic acid. And despite the often-repeated myth that you shouldn’t use hyaluronic acid in dry environments, the ingredient will still help to hydrate the skin in arid conditions. If you don’t like the feel of the product/ingredient, that is one thing, but there is definitely no need to be afraid to use it in any environment. “ So yes, you can use your hyaluronic acid skincare products both when you’re on a tropical island or when in Vegas. 

Lastly, although topical hyaluronic acid does have a plumping effect on the skin, Dr. Kapoor stresses that the effects are temporary—topical hyaluronic acid cannot replace volume or collagen loss in the skin long term.

Potential Side Effects and Precautions

Though hyaluronic acid enjoys a reputation of being largely benign, it's not entirely devoid of potential side effects. Pacitti touches upon possible reactions for the hyaluronic acid-sensitive group, which might include sensations of stinging or manifestations of redness. Additionally, while you may want to load up on hyaluronic acid products (because, quite frankly, its ingredient profile is pretty attractive), Dr. Shizari warns that overusing this ingredient can potentially dry out or irritate the skin. 

To sum up, hyaluronic acid emerges as a gentle giant in the realm of skincare. It promises a trifecta of hydration, elasticity, and rejuvenation. Armed with this expert-backed knowledge, you can explore the transformative world of hyaluronic acid, letting your skin bask in its myriad of benefits. But as always, listen to your skin and don't overdo it because too much of something can easily be good for nothing.

Related: 7 Skincare Ingredients You Need to Know

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