Everything You Need to Know About Facial Hair Removal

Estheticians break down their favorite methods.

Everyone has thin, fair peach fuzz on their face, but it’s also incredibly common for cisgender women to deal with thicker, coarser, darker hairs — typically around the upper lip, chin, sides of the face, and around the eyebrows. Though choosing to remove these hairs or not is absolutely a matter of personal preference, many people find they prefer to do so for aesthetic (or cultural) reasons. With the help of skin and beauty experts, we dove deep into a selection of the most popular facial hair removal methods that are available. We also laid out the pros and cons of each to help you decide which might be the most suitable for you at any given time, whether you choose to remove your facial hair at home or in a local salon or medispa.

All About Facial Hair

There are two types of hair you might find on your face: called vellus hair and terminal hair. “Vellus hair is the very fine, usually non-pigmented, soft hair that covers most of the body,” says Courtney Moseley, a board-certified physician assistant and content creator @the_plastic_pa. “It doesn't grow long and is often called ‘peach fuzz.’ Terminal hair is the hair found on the scalp, eyebrows, beard, etc. It is coarser, darker, and grows longer than the vellus type.”

Facial hair goes through a growth cycle over a period of about six to eight weeks, which is why you might notice it looks different at different times. “There are four different phases of the hair growth cycle — anagen, catagen, telogen, and exogen,” explains Geeta Yadav, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and founder of FACET Dermatology. “The first phase consists of actual growth, the second is the transition phase, when the hair prepares to rest, the telogen phase is when the hair is ‘resting’ and not growing but not shedding, either, and exogen is when the hair sheds.”

Meanwhile, Moseley sheds (no pun intended) more light on the implications of this growth cycle. “Not all hairs are in the same phase simultaneously,” she says. “Thus, hairs become different lengths.”

Common Facial Hair Removal Methods

There are many facial hair removal methods to choose from — below, we discuss the pros and cons of some of the most popular methods to help you make an informed decision.

Waxing

Facial waxing can be done at home or in a salon, and the procedure is very straightforward. “Waxing is a procedure where wax is spread in the direction of hair growth, and depending on whether hard or soft wax is used, it either dries on the skin and is pulled off, or a waxing strip of paper is used to pull the wax and hair off,” says Jacqueline Rochonchou Sargent, a licensed medical aesthetician and laser technician, and co-owner of Skin Deep Naples. “Best done during the anagen stage of hair growth (because the longer the hair, the better it works), this procedure is great for vellus hair or blonde, gray, or red hair that lasers cannot pick up.”

If using hot wax to remove facial hair at home, you’ll need to be extra careful. “It is of paramount importance to make sure that the hair is not only long enough, but above all, that the wax is not too hot. The wax is designed to stick to the skin, and hot wax can absolutely burn you,” cautions Dr. Yadav. “You will also want to fully exfoliate before waxing to ensure the hair is fully exposed for best results.” Many people find using wax strips — which don’t require heating — easier to use safely and effectively at home.

Waxing is a great facial hair removal technique, but unfortunately it does come with its downsides. “Waxes can irritate the skin, and doing skin tests on a small surface area is, unfortunately, the only way to know which one might cause you irritation,” notes Rochonchou Sargent. “There is also the rare potential to have a bit of skin broken as well.” To that point, Dr. Yadav says to never wax your face if you are using prescription retinoids or are on Accutane or isotretinoin, because the skin is too thin and is at risk of breaking.

With that in mind, waxing “is safe for all skin tones and types and is a quick procedure that only needs to be done once a month,” says Rochonchou Sargent. “Over time, the hair can become thinner and slower to grow back due to years of damaging the follicle by pulling the hair from it.”

Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning is a facial hair removal technique that’s closely related to shaving, though it’s not done using a classic razor, but rather a similar implement alternatively called a dermaplaner, dermaplaning razor, or dermaplaning device for at-home use, and a dermaplaning scalpel for in-office use. “Dermaplaning involves using a surgical scalpel to exfoliate the skin and remove vellus hair from the face,” says Moseley. “It can also be done at home with specialized tools, usually sold as facial razors. The razors for at-home use are less sharp than the surgical scalpels used in offices. Anywhere on the face can be dermaplaned to remove the fine peach fuzz hair.”

Though dermaplaning can also remove thicker and darker hairs, it’s more so intended to exfoliate and brighten the skin, rather than a facial hair removal method per se. “Dermaplaning is great for getting a smooth, silky finish on the skin and removing dead skin cells,” says Moseley. “The downside is that if the face is very dry or already exfoliated well, you can risk over-exfoliating and creating a rash. It can also lead to breakouts if the skin isn't cleansed adequately before and after treatment.”

If you prefer to dermaplane at home, it’s important to be careful to avoid injuring yourself, and to make sure your skin is properly cleansed (but not exfoliated, either with a chemical or a physical product) before you start. “If you’re on the clumsier side, I recommend using a device like Dermaflash which is very safe and effectively removes the hair without being too close to the skin,” says Dr. Yadav. “Those using a tool that’s more like a scalpel should be very careful to pull the skin taut, use the blade at an angle and dermaplane in small, short, and slow strokes. Moving too quickly on your skin, especially when it’s not pulled taut, increases your risk of injury.”

Dermaplaning is an amazing method for exfoliation, but because it’s surface-level, it has to be done often — weekly or so — to maintain results, which can be inconvenient for those with busy schedules.

Related: We Spent 192 Hours Testing the Best Facial Hair Removal Products to Find These 18 Standouts

Laser Hair Removal

Laser hair removal is a fantastic option for facial hair removal if you’re looking for long-term hair reduction and you’re willing to spend more upfront (and typically save money in the long run). “Laser hair removal works by destroying the hair follicle at the root, reducing or terminating its ability to grow,” explains Dr. Yadav. “With consistent treatment, you will experience permanent hair reduction. In some cases, when there is a small amount of stubborn hairs, a patient may find that the hair never comes back at all, or they need one or two maintenance treatments years after their initial treatment series.”

Unfortunately, laser hair removal isn’t suitable for all skin and hair types and colors. “Laser hair removal is best for those who have fair to medium skin tones and dark hair as the laser works by sensing the contrast between the skin and hair pigment, then destroying the darker pigment,” says Dr. Yadav. “It will not be efficacious in those with fair hair and fair skin and may not be safe on those with dark hair and deep skin.”

Laser hair removal is usually done in office, in a medispa or via a dermatologist, and you will need to go back for about six to eight sessions total, with about six to eight weeks between each session, per Dr. Yadav. This method is largely very safe when done by a reputable professional, though there is a risk of some side effects. “Most side effects tend to consist of discomfort and irritation, including inflammation that tends to last a few hours at the treatment site,” says Dr. Yadav. “There’s also a risk of hypopigmentation (meaning lightening of the skin) in the treatment area, even in lighter skin tones.”

Meanwhile, it is also possible to purchase laser hair removal devices to use at home. This may save you some money, but may also be less effective. “At-home devices work in a similar way but are much less powerful than the lasers done at medical offices,” says Moseley. “It will take many more sessions to treat hair with the same result.”

Epilating

Epilating is done using an electric device that essentially uses a bunch of mini tweezers to pull out the hairs on your face. “Epilating is basically tweezing, but on a larger scale,” says Dr. Yadav. “A device uses a rotating head that features tweezer-like bars that grab hairs as the head rotates, plucking out multiple hairs simultaneously. While it’s typically used for larger surface areas, it can also be used on the face.”

Epilating is pretty easy to get the hang of, which is definitely an advantage of this method vs. hot waxing, for example. “The process is simple — just pass the device over clean, dry skin,” adds Dr. Yadav. “This is best for terminal hairs as vellus hairs are largely too fine for an epilator to grab.”

As for whether this method is right for you, Dr. Yadav isn’t the biggest fan. “The major con is that this is one of the most painful forms of hair removal because the head of the device doesn’t rotate very quickly, so you can feel the tugging as you go,” she explains. “Unlike others on this list, it’s not a more permanent form of hair removal, so you will have to continue doing it as the hairs regrow. It’s also not a super accurate form of hair removal, so you may have to go over the same areas several times to remove the hair, which can get uncomfortable.” For the expert, you may be better off sticking with regular tweezing — especially since areas on the face are smaller and shouldn’t take too long to pluck.

Related: The 10 Best Hair Removal Creams of 2024, Tested & Reviewed

Tweezing

Chances are you’re already pretty familiar with tweezing, but the experts shared a few tidbits to know for achieving the best results from your pointed- or angled-tip tweezers. “Tweezing uses a pair of tweezers to pluck individual hairs, removing them from their root,” says Moseley. “As far as hair removal goes, it is the most common and easiest method, especially for areas like eyebrows. The skin should be cleansed, and then tweezers are used to remove the desired hair. For the most effective results, the skin should be stretched and the hair removed with a quick pull at the base of the skin.”

Tweezing is generally very safe, making it a great choice if you’re worried about getting your hair removal wrong. “It;s very low risk and while it can be a little uncomfortable, it’s quick and usually pretty painless,” says Dr. Yadav. “Just make sure to clean the tips of your tweezer with isopropyl alcohol to avoid any risk of infection.” To make the process easier and more painless, Moseley suggests taking a warm shower beforehand to help soften the hair, while Rochonchou Sargent recommends using a magnifying mirror in an area with as much light as possible, so you can really see what you’re doing.

Choosing the Right Method for You

Facial hair removal is SO personal, and the method you choose depends on a number of factors, including your hair and skin type, plus how much time and how much money you’re willing to invest in it, and your desired results. “For longer-lasting solutions, look towards laser hair removal, epilation, and waxing,” says Moseley. “If cost is a factor, the cheapest routes would be at-home dermaplaning, plucking, and shaving. For those with light-colored hair, laser hair removal may not be an option. If your skin is especially sensitive, then options like dermaplaning and tweezing would be more gentle than epilation, laser, and waxing.”

If you want to be extra certain that you’re making the right hair removal choice for you, it’s always worth consulting a skincare professional off the bat to help design a plan that fits your budget, lifestyle, and skin needs. “Choosing the best method for your individual preferences and needs will be achieved by having a discussion with a trusted technician where you can honestly express all lifestyle practices, and your skin and hair can be looked at,” says Rochonchou Sargent.

Tips for Effective Facial Hair Removal

Most importantly: Do your research! When preparing to remove the hair on your face, make sure you know the pros and cons of each method, and decide whether you prefer a method you can do quickly, easily, and safely at home, or if you prefer to visit a local aesthetician or skincare practitioner. “If you’re not doing it at home, be sure to go to a reputable office (especially if opting for laser treatment) to ensure the best results,” says Moseley.

And if you’re unsure which direction to go with your facial hair removal, a professional can also help you with this. “Always be honest with your provider about time, finances, medications, and lifestyle choices and establish a relationship where they know your skin better than you do,” says Rochonchou Sargent. “A trained professional will know what is best for you and will guide you in the direction most effective for you.”

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