Everything You Need to Know About Budding Locs—and How to Care For Them

Experts break it down.

Locs, once popularly called dreadlocks, come in various styles, shapes, and sizes. While this popular hairstyle was made famous by the likes of Jamaican musician Bob Marley and American singer Lauryn Hill, historians say it has been worn by everyone from Ancient Greeks to Indian holy men. African descendants have reclaimed the style in the U.S., making it their own with both permanent natural locs and temporary extensions. To permanently grow locs with natural hair, the hair must be parted and twisted or knotting sections to create a rope-like appearance. Over time, the hair will bind together and remain that way, effectively “locking” the hair from the tip to the root.

However, new hair will always grow in loose and need to be twisted or knotted into the rest of the loc strand. Locing happens in stages: starter, budding, teen, mature, and rooted. Budding locs are one of the beginning phases that can present challenges for new loc wearers. We asked experts about how to manage them, below.

What are budding locs?

Budding locs, also known as the sprouting stage, are the second stage of the locing process. It occurs between 3 to 12 months into the loc journey. The timeline for them to form varies by hair texture, length, and thickness. At this stage, the hair begins to matte and won't unravel in the wash, but it can be hard to style.

“Budding locs is a process that happens naturally when the loc catches all the shed hair within the locs,” explains Marisa Peal, hair expert at OrganixLocs in Pennsylvania. “The look of a budding loc can start off smooth or uniform from the roots of the hair until the mid-shaft, with the end of the loc appearing fuller, thicker, and frizzier.” She says budding locs can happen in the first 3 to 6 months of the locking stage but can last anywhere from 6 months to a year.

New growth is a sign that locs are entering the budding stage. Most people's immediate reaction would be to retwist their hair to keep the original parting and maintain the sleek look of fresh locs. But too much manipulation at this stage can cause the locs to unravel and break. So, hair in the budding loc phase may feel unruly.

Because the hair is learning to thrive in the new entanglement, locs may become frizzy, dull, and thick. After all, the hair is knotting itself. Moisture may be trapped inside the loc and not on its surface. It is natural to feel and see lumps in the locs, especially where older hair meets new growth.

However, thinning roots and uneven locs are signs of a problem. If improper budding happens, it can be for several reasons, including the size of the starter locs, allergic reactions to specific products, or too much loc manipulation.

How are budding locs different from other kinds of locs?

Budding locs are not a style of loc. Instead they are just one stage in a larger loc journey. When locs start budding, the hair inside the loc has begun to tangle and form an internal loc matrix. That means that regardless of the type of locs, including sister locs, traditional locs, freeform locs, interlocking, or two-strand twist dreads, they will go through the budding stage.

The initial starter phase can be a bit of a honeymoon. The hair is freshly styled and oiled. The parts are perfect and, depending on the length of the hair, it lays flat. Essentially, the hair appears manicured. Budding locs represent a transition point between that controlled state and teen locs, where locs are progressing with their permanent look.

Can you do budding locs yourself?

There are many different ways to start locs, including comb coils, palm rolling, braids or two-strand twists, freeform, and interlocking. While parting the hair consistently can be hard to do alone, with the help of mirrors and friends, it can be done at home.

At the budding locs stage, many people choose to maintain their hair at home, so they can learn more about what their hair responds do. Every 4 to 8 weeks, some people choose to visit a loctician, a hair stylist specialized in locs. But as the hair grows and becomes easier to maintain, most people find it more cost-effective to do DIY hair maintenance.

What hair types should get budding locs?

All hair types can loc. However, hair type and texture will affect the time it takes to loc and the final look. According to experts, the kinkier the hair, the faster it will loc. The finer or straighter the hair, the longer it will take.

It’s also important to note that different hair types will need different tools and products to achieve loc results. Some people can simply use a loc moisturizer and set it, but others will need to use beeswax or stickier material to ensure the hair strands adhere to one another. About 3 to 12 months into the locing journey, budding locs will appear.

Remember, this period can require a “mind over matter” attitude. The locs may not look how you originally envisioned. After all, the hair is learning a new way of growing and thriving. This is the phase when many people cut their hair and start over or move on, but this period is inevitable in the natural locing process.

How often do budding locs need to be refreshed?

With budding locs, creating a retwisting routine for new growth is essential. Retwisting locs is the same no matter what stage locs are in—however, if done incorrectly, retwisting can drastically thin your locs, cause hair breakage, and even trigger baldness. Limit tugging and pulling at the scalp. The hair may not lay flat from the root to the tip—that’s normal.

Retwist damp, freshly washed hair. For precise parting, use a rat-tail comb. Apply gel or custard to the roots only and retwist by twirling the loc around your finger. Continue until you reach the base of the scalp.

You can also use the palm-rolling method. When winding or rolling, twist the loc in the initial direction to prevent unraveling. This gives your locs a uniform look and makes future retwists easier. Once you have finished retwisting, secure the hair with a double-prong clip until the entire head is done. Some people choose to use a hair dryer for speed, but it is best to let hair air dry naturally. Heat can damage hair over time. Only remove the clips when the hair is fully dry. Use mousse to add an extra protective layer of moisture.

Retwisting is recommended after every four to six weeks. After a few retwists, you should be out of the budding stage. Do not avoid retwisting, as it can cause the parts to converge and the locs to interjoin. When in doubt, consult a loctitian.

How can you maintain budding locs?

It is a common misconception that locs require minimal to no maintenance. In reality, all hair, including locs, must be adequately maintained to thrive. Tips to take care of your budding locs include:

• Wash your locs as need be to clean the scalp and remove any buildup, lint, and excess oil. Consider using a sulfate-free shampoo or other shampoos and conditioners that don't leave residue. Always start near the roots and work your way down to the ends.

• Dry your locs with a microfiber towel that will not leave lint in your locs. Ensure your locs dry thoroughly.

• Moisturizing is a crucial part of keeping your locs healthy. Dry hair becomes brittle and susceptible to breakage. You can use a moisturizing spray or hair oil.

• Wrap your locs in a silk or satin scarf when sleeping to preserve the moisture.

• When styling, always think about your edges. Longer locs tend to put more tension on your hair, putting delicate edges at risk. Avoid tight styles and vary hairstyles to control thinning and prevent balding.

• Avoid hair thickening products. Loc wax can cause build-up during the budding loc phase, and it can be hard to remove the residue once the hair enters the teen stage.

Ultimately, budding locs are a good sign that your locs are progressing. When your locs start sprouting, don't rush to retwist immediately. Instead, accept that this is part of the journey. You can try ponytails, clips, and scarf combos to help get through those periods. If proper care is taken, locs will soon enter a new phase—likely the one that inspired the loc journey in the first place—and will be healthy and easier to style.

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