Erdem Men’s Fall 2022
Pandemic dressing has had an indelible impact on so many designers who are increasingly blurring the boundaries between informal and formal clothing.
No one can forget that delicious feeling of dressing for full-time work at home, swathed in cashmere, cotton or other cloud-soft clothing. At the same time, it’s hard to deny that desire to dress up, and face the outside world in a tailored suit — even one that’s strewn with wildflowers, or accessorized with a jaunty cummerbund.
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Erdem Moralioglu has embraced the dichotomy in his second men’s collection with colors and shapes inspired by two midcentury female photographers: Dora Kallmus, a Viennese-born talent who counted Picasso and Josephine Baker as subjects and friends, and Yevonde Middleton, a London-based portraitist and still-life snapper who pioneered the use of color in photography.
The result was a tactile collection, dark and autumnal, with bursts of color and pattern in the form of a neon yellow alpaca double-breasted coat; flowery vintage wallpaper prints splashed across a boiled fleece hoodie, or shirt-and-trouser combos, and a handwoven bouclé tweed suit shot through with bright white yarn.
Moralioglu’s knits were cozy and textural, as in a canary yellow turtleneck with white flecks like a sprinkling of snowflakes, or a fuzzy mohair tartan crewneck. Trousers, too, were made to straddle life at home and in public: The designer created a lineup of narrow, high-waisted wide wale cords in colors including olive, navy and rust, some of which were styled with matching cummerbunds.
Even the most formal of looks had soft, warming touches: Moralioglu paired a gangster-ish, 1930s gray herringbone suit with a nubby, flecked V-neck cardigan, and layered a turtleneck under a tailored white cotton shirt with embroidered polka dots.
While those loud and proud flower prints may not be for every man, there was more than enough here for those men (and women) balancing work from home with the office commute, which will likely be making a comeback by fall.
Launch Gallery: Erdem Men's Fall 2022
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