New era blends seamlessly with the previous at this prestigious Wilmington restaurant

Allison Ballard, Wilmington StarNews
·2 min read
Port Land Grille restaurant at 1908 Eastwood Road in Lumina Station in Wilmington, N.C.
Port Land Grille restaurant at 1908 Eastwood Road in Lumina Station in Wilmington, N.C.

In 2000, Anne Steketee and Shawn Wellersdick opened Port Land Grille in Wilmington’s Lumina Station with a food-forward vision. The experienced restaurateurs created a fine dining destination near Wrightsville Beach that has served locals, tourists and stars and helped train chefs and servers who have continued to develop the local food scene.

When Wellersdick died in May 2022, however, that vision was challenged. Fortunately, the couple had already met the chef who would help fill the void. Chef Jonathan McAuley had a chance to train with Wellersdick for a few months after the mentor was diagnosed with an aggressive form of brain cancer.

“And Jon was just able to take Shawn’s vision and make it his own,” Steketee said.

Chef Jonathan McAuley (right) is the chef de cuisine at Port Land Grille restaurant in Lumina Station.
Chef Jonathan McAuley (right) is the chef de cuisine at Port Land Grille restaurant in Lumina Station.

While McAuley is a bit shy and doesn’t like the spotlight, Steketee said that his training and passion for what he does shines through. The chef de cuisine has worked in a number of kitchens, including with chef Jessica Cabo at Blockade Runner Beach Resort.

While some of the familiar dishes like the Famous “Redneck” Eggrolls and Shawn’s Smooth Pate are sill on the menu, diners will also see entrees like Korean BBQ Glazed Short Ribs and specials like Green Gumbo with andouille sausage, blackened shrimp, and Carolina gold rice or the N.C. grouper with yellow curry and butternut squash.

The menu and atmosphere maintain the progressive American edge that Port Land Grille had when it was founded at 1908 Eastwood Road. They sourced seasonal and local ingredients before farm-to-table was a part of the national vocabulary and developed an award-winning wine program.

Steketee said that goal remains. Along with McAuley, she’s also brought manager Eric Stimson on board.

From the archives: A chef runs around the world

Green Gumbo with andouille sausage, blackened shrimp, and Carolina gold rice was a recent special at Port Land Grille in Wilmington's Lumina Station.
Green Gumbo with andouille sausage, blackened shrimp, and Carolina gold rice was a recent special at Port Land Grille in Wilmington's Lumina Station.

“Eric has been there day in and day out and helpful with everything from the staff to the wine,” she said.

Steketee said she needed to rethink a few things about the restaurant but has managed to move from one vision to the next fairly seamlessly, she said.

“So much has changed,” she said. “But we are a family. It was always a family... but now it’s just a different family.”

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Allison Ballard is the food and dining reporter at the StarNews. You can reach her at aballard@gannett.com.

This article originally appeared on Wilmington StarNews: Port Land Grille in Wilmington, NC, carries on with new chef, staff