English supernova
The hills are alive with the sound of bubbles—if you live in southern England, a vineyard is coming soon to a field near you. Sparkling wine has been made here on a small scale for 350 years, and it's 25 years since Nyetimber released its agenda-setting first vintage. Now, as plantings continue apace, English sparkling is starting to carry as much kudos as champagne. And when the wines continue to dazzle in blind tastings alongside champagne, and when the French themselves are investing (Taittinger planted its first vines in Kent last year), it's high time to indulge. English producers have done a grand job of pitching themselves as premium producers and keeping quality high; here are my favourite starter bottles.
Nyetimber Classic Cuvée (£31, Berry Bros & Rudd)
Nyetimber, Ridgeview and Chapel Down were the benchmark of English sparkling for years. This Sussex pioneer now has 170 hectares under vine, including a single-vineyard site at Tillington which produces a liquid to rival the grandes marques. This, their NV, has citric acidity that's perfectly balanced with an almondy appliness like frangipane tart. The labelling is upper crust, too.
Hattingley Classic Reserve (£30, Waitrose Cellar)
Hattingley was established near Winchester in 2008 and now wins awards all over the shop. The house Classic Reserve is a blend of vintages fermented part in steel and part in oak to add complexity whilst retaining purity. The result has a zingy acidity, a hit of strawberry and a discernible buttery apple crumble note to round things out.
Gusbourne Brut Reserve 2013 (£33, Lea & Sandeman)
If it's good enough for the Queen, it's good enough for us: Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs (£45) was recently served by Her Majesty at a state banquet. Gusbourne's Brut Reserve is a classic champagne blend which makes a refined sip for lesser beings. A fine mousse and a whiff of lemon polenta cake, and it must be said that the labelling and branding are exquisite.
Upperton Alia 2013 (£31, Hawkinsbros.co.uk)
This blanc de blancs, which hails from a 40-acre south-facing vineyard near Petworth (the wine itself is made at the Ridgeview winery in Ditchling), won Gold at the 2017 International Wine Challenge. It carries characteristic blanc de blancs notes of stone fruits and citrus, and even a whiff of orange blossom, with a toasty finish. Sip some on the vineyard's terrace—the views are enchanting.
Jenkyn Place Classic Cuvée Brut 2013 (£31, Hawkinsbros.co.uk)
Made by noted winemaker Dermot Sugrue of Wiston and, formerly, Nyetimber, this wine is fairly heavy on the chardonnay, which gives it a whiff of golden delicious apple and quince along with a scrumptious breadiness.
Bolney Estate Classic Cuvée 2013 (£29, Bolneywineestate.com)
This East Sussex estate won Winery of the year in the 2017 UK Wine Awards. Making wine here has been a labour of love for Sam Linter since the early Nineties when she took it over from her parents. It shows in this, which is all about fresh apples and pears with a hint of lemon curd.
Hambledon Classic Cuvée (£28, The Wine Society)
This, from England's oldest commercial vineyard still producing—est. 1952, resurrected 1999—has outshone top champagnes in blind tastings. Southeast-facing Hampshire slopes, a classic champagne blend and a touch of oak give rise to a fizz with pronounced acidity that changes in the glass to reveal floral and lemon brioche flavours.
Rathfinny
Keep your eyes peeled in late April for the first sparkling wine releases from this sweeping estate in Alfriston, near Lewes. Proprietors Mark and Sarah Driver and their winemaker Jonathan Médard have spared no labour or expense in crafting their wine. The bottle shape and label are distinctive, and early tastings suggest that the contents will be, too.
