Emerging Designers Shine at London Fashion Week’s Fall 2018 Edition
BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS: Emerging designers at London Fashion Week’s fall 2018 showcase showed off looks stretching from the traditional and tailored to Seventies-inspired.
Steventai
Taking a cue from his native Macau, the designer made oversize clothing and played with construction as seen on an enlarged granddad corduroy blazer worn with silky oversize camel trousers and soft rib collar blouse. He balanced rich reds and yellows — the vibrant colors of Macau — with soft pastels that reflect the island’s Portuguese building facades.
Sentaler
This Canadian brand, a favorite of the Duchess of Cambridge and her soon-to-be sister-in-law Meghan Markle, unveiled a luxe fall 2018 collection through private appointments with Bojana Sentaler. The Toronto-based designer said she was inspired by the Seventies, and played with the label’s signature ribbed detailing across an entire coat. Other new styles included a bomber with alpaca sleeves and a navy coat with alpaca on the cuffs and collar.
Roberts|Wood
Katie Roberts-Wood was thinking about the concept of “cuteness” for fall and its association with vulnerability. She wanted to turn that idea on its head with a range of pieces that were both cute and thought-provoking. Delicate silk organza dresses in a palette of sorbet hues had multiple layers of ruffles and origami-like twisted flowers, all of which were created using the designer’s hand-linked technique which eliminates the need for stitching. She also offered up pretty poplin shirtdresses with bow embellishments, loose tailoring and woven shift dresses.
This seamless mash-up of the commercial and the arty has grabbed the attention of stockists including Dover Street Market, Selfridges, Isetan and Galeries Lafayette.
Xu Zhi
For his first on-schedule show, the Chinese-born, London-based designer Xu Zhi delivered a collection filled with standout fabrics and textures that put the spotlight on his signature braiding techniques. Oversize outerwear and midi dresses came in thick braided fabrics decorated with elongated tassels. Inspired by the pre-Raphaelite muse Jane Morris, the designer said he wanted to evoke an air of decadence and mystery in the collection through a muted palette of oranges, blacks and emerald greens and textured fabrics that almost resembled oil paintings. Some of the standout pieces included structured midi dresses and trenches created using a hand-painted coated faux leather fabric.
A.V. Robertson
“With what’s going in the world, it made me kind of imagine the end of the world,” said Amie Victoria Robertson. It’s almost like judgment day and a showdown of good and evil, almost like a new paradise world being reborn and explored.” Robertson presented a range filled with checks and organza during her first runway show held at St. Andrew Holborn Church. Known for her uniquely embellished women’s wear and accessories, she added shiny gemstone accents to tops, trousers and dresses that were done in a mix of plaid tartans and shiny Lurex.
Launch Gallery: Emerging Designers at London Fashion Week Fall 2018: Everything You Need to Know
Related stories
Fashion Council Germany Hosts Party at German Ambassador's Residence
Emerging Designers Shine at On|Off
Queen at Quinn: Queen Elizabeth II Makes Her Runway Debut
Get more from WWD: Follow us on Twitter, Facebook, Newsletter
