This Earth Day, Change the Way You Eat from the Ocean
Los Angelenos have it pretty great with all of their sunshine and sustainably sourced seafood. For residents of the coastal city, eating local fish has become a way of life. Companies such as Trashfish have found success in helping Southern Californians form smarter seafood habits with their accessible recipes, while Sweetfin Poké, led by Chef Dakota Weiss, was founded around a commitment to making sustainable fish accessible; they regularly adapt their offerings to reflect the changing seascape. But what about the rest of us?
Pollution, overfishing, and ocean noise from boats have all contributed to a struggling ocean with depleted resources, with an estimated 70 percent of the fish population being fully used, overused, or in crisis. For those who don't want to give up lox or lobster rolls altogether, there are a few key ways to be a more conscious consumer (even if you don't live in a coastal city).
Seafood Watch, a program run by the Monterey Bay Aquarium, helps consumers and businesses choose the right type of fish, whether fished or farmed, in ways that support a healthy ocean. An easy-to-use app tells you what the best options are, good alternatives, and what fish to avoid. Matthew Beaudin, the executive chef at the aquarium's restaurant, builds his menu off of the app's recommendations. "We work with our fishermen to get those fish when we can," he said. Beaudin teamed up with Weiss on a seasonal collaboration featuring wild and sustainably-caught Spanish Octopus (which is currently labeled a "Good Choice" by the program). But if you're cooking at home, try these tips the next time you're shopping for seafood.
1. Step out of your comfort zone. Ren Ostry of Trashfish recommends skipping familiar fish and adding new types into your diet, like Night smelt or California market squid. "There are so many species of fish which are abundant, sustainable, accessible; fish that have yearlong fisheries or the population levels leave us without any fear of them deteriorating," she said, "But a lot of those fish are kinds that the average consumer isn’t really comfortable cooking." Ostry recommends looking to chefs or Instagram for inspiration on cooking new-to-you fish. "You don't have to reinvent the wheel. There is a recipe and application out there for literally everything."
2. Do your research. "Fishery regulations change every year and what was sustainable five years ago, might not be sustainable today," Ostry says. Stay up to date with the Seafood Watch app and by checking the labels of any fish you buy to see where it was caught and packaged. "More and more people are asking, are aware, and are concerned about where their food is coming from," Weiss says. After Sweetfin's most popular tuna fell off of Seafood Watch's recommendations list, Weiss overhauled their menu to accommodate the change. "We have a really regular clientele and for us to make such a massive switch from our best selling fish and try to explain it to everyone has been a bit of an issue. But, our customers are happy that we stay within these strict guidelines."
3. Trust the experts. Beaudin calls Weiss and her team leaders in the movement. "They are really taking the time to find the right fish and focusing on what matters," he said, comparing her spot to other seafood and sushi restaurants. Ostry suggests developing a relationship with your local fishmonger, who can also keep you up to speed on sea changes.
4. Make it a ritual. Holding yourself accounting is the best way for changing the way you cook or shop, Ostry said, adding that it can be as simple as dedicating a night out of the week to try a different type of fish. "Put it in your calendar like going to the gym or a doctor's appointment. You don't have to do the work alone—there are people out there who want to help."
