Dsquared2 Men’s and Women’s Fall 2023

The Dsquared2 show opened with a brief video that set the tone for the sexy coed collection the audience was bracing for. Cartoon naked blondes moved provocatively on a big screen before an IRL set-up recreating the messy room of a teenager, plastered with posters and stickers, was revealed.

An alarm clock went off, TikTok star Kyle Thomas opened his eyes, stretched his arms and voilà — he woke up not to a new day but straight to 2003. So did the show guests, who witnessed a Y2K-style parade and rewind of all the aesthetic codes Dsquared2 has been known for over the past two decades.

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Think denim in all shapes and forms, from distressed finishes to low-rise options left unbuttoned to reveal double constructions; maxi puffers, shearling coats and renditions of plaid jackets and shirts; see-through frocks, teeny-tiny shorts, and low-waist, high-hem skirts; a Western aesthetic, and injections of leather motorcycle styles.

It was an exercise of “looking back to look forward” that reaffirmed Dean and Dan Caten’s penchant for layering, style mash-ups and self-expression.

There was the geek, the cowboy, the rocker, the bombshell, the athlete and many more. There were preppy looks popping in-between cowboy fringed jackets; a crystal-embellished net dress layered over a cropped T-shirt and denim HotPants; lingerie peeking from everywhere and a palate-cleanser pristine tracksuit that interrupted a series of slogan tops in shrunken proportions and T-shirts nodding to baby onesies.

A hodgepodge of characters, styles and references, here was an old-school Dsquared2 collection in all its overtly sexiness, irreverence and high-voltage energy.

If on one hand the lineup included good reminders of what the Catens do best — denim and outerwear stole the spotlight — on the other, some looks just felt a bit too anachronistic and hard to imagine behind the walls of that staged room today.

Launch Gallery: Dsquared2 RTW Fall 2023

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