Driven by his faith, Big Bend rancher began raising livestock to help feed the hungry

Driving through the Beverly Hills area of California 20 years ago, school teacher Mike Ewert was struck by the extreme poverty and hunger he saw firsthand — “blocks and miles” of tents and people asking for money or food.

He knew he had to do something about it. Today Ewert, who is strongly motivated by his Christian faith, not only helps feed people struggling with food insecurity in his home state of Wisconsin, but does so by donating something that's harder to come by in food pantries: fresh meat.

While pursuing his bachelor’s degree in physical education at the University of Wisconsin–Whitewater, Ewert hoped that one day run he could run his own business and surround himself with animals.

“I wanted to just run down the long driveway with my hair just blowing in the wind,” Ewert said, reminiscing on his once long mane and hope for the future.

Now his hair is hidden under a cross-adorned cowboy hat, but his dream came true — and even grew.

Starbird Ranch in Big Bend is home to Ewert’s company, Starbird Concrete, and his nonprofit organization Cross Star (crossstarnonprofit.com), which aims to serve the greater Milwaukee area by providing homeless shelters and food pantries with fresh meat.

Before starting Cross Star in 2020, Ewert had been raising steer and pigs and giving that meat to his friends and family. But in 2015 he reached a turning point.

“I thought what a better place than to give it to food pantries and people who can use it?” Ewert said.

He began exclusively donating his steer and pigs to area food pantries and shelters such as the Muskego Food Pantry, Milwaukee Rescue Mission, Hunger Task Force and Feeding America Eastern Wisconsin.

Food pantries struggle to provide choices as prices rise

Those donations have proved especially vital as food prices have risen and the lack of fresh meat has struck food pantries hard. This year, food prices are predicted to rise 3.1% for poultry and 5.6% for other meat, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Consumer Price Index.

The increases make it difficult for pantries to keep a steady stockpile of their least commonly donated products: fresh meat and produce.

Feeding America Eastern Wisconsin relies largely on donations to serve 35 counties across eastern Wisconsin, according to Chief Operating Officer Jeff Joslyn and Vice President of Development & Communications Scott Marshall. Marshall mentioned that with rising costs for produce, fewer people may be able to donate quality, fresh food.

Since the COVID–19 pandemic, demand for food provisions has surged and food pantries have been struck with shortages.

Choice is at the forefront of Feeding America Eastern Wisconsin’s mission, so they provide people with options and quality, fresh food that will keep them sustained and healthy.

“We intend to bring a human element to everything that we do ... and (serve) with preference in mind,” Joslyn said.

Marshall elaborated on the importance of providing fresh options.

"Sourcing fresh meat and produce allows food banks to provide nutritious, diverse and culturally appropriate food options to individuals experiencing food insecurity. It contributes to better health outcomes, increased community engagement, reduced food waste and greater dignity for those receiving assistance," he said.

Because pantries rely on donations and the breadth of what they receive is not always consistent, places like Feeding America Eastern Wisconsin have had to learn how to navigate shortages.

Donations from area farms and ranches such as Cross Star are a big help. Ewert's nonprofit donated 409 pounds of beef in 2022, according to Marshall.

Overall, Cross Star raised and donated four steer and four pigs in 2022 — enough to feed more than 12,000 people.

A 'commitment to the Lord'

Ewert's drive to give back to the community that raised him comes from his faith.

“Everybody knows what’s right and wrong, but it’s a matter of doing the ‘right,' ” he said. “I got this (Cross Star) because the Lord gave me certain gifts, he gave me certain talents, and I wanted to start using those to benefit him."

Born and raised a Catholic in the Muskego area, Ewert found a deeper connection with his faith during his college years. He noted that his childhood exposed him to a branch of religion that was very “strict” and he followed the expected path: usher, religious schooling and church. But his wrestling coach in college was a “big Christian” who led him on the path to a closer relationship with the Lord.

“That was the best thing he ever did for me,” Ewert said, noting that his coach's guidance toward the Lord was what really moved him.

Now he is rooted in his faith. He is a regular church attendee, feels a great commitment to live in the Lord’s image and wants to feel proud “when we all face him (God) one day.”

But that doesn't mean Ewert does not struggle, too. He was convicted of his fourth OWI charge in February, but he has been working to fulfill his probationary requirements following his stay at a Huber facility.

"It's the only thing that helped me through it," Ewert said of his faith. "Alcohol has been a dark place in my life, so it's hard. Because everybody has a downfall in their life here and there, and (my faith) just helps me get back on my feet."

Through it all, Ewert remains rooted in his beliefs and in the work he is doing for Cross Star.

Looking around Ewert’s home office, that commitment is clear. The room is filled with scripture and crosses alongside notes of thanks from food pantries and photos of him with his nonprofit's volunteers.

Ewert also makes it clear that he cannot do this alone. One of his volunteers, Pam Wesley, organizes and contacts most of the other volunteers on the ranch and coordinates promotional opportunities to expand the organization’s reach. Fork in the Road Restaurant in Mukwonago has donated vegetable scraps to help feed the animals, and Harry Hansen Meat Service in Franksville butchers Cross Star's pigs for a slightly discounted rate (Cedar Road Meats in Iron Ridge butchers the steer).

“There’s a lot of people out there who are willing to help others,” Ewert said, noting the ranch currently has four volunteers, with more coming on once they get their steer and pigs for the season.

Cross Star's effect on the community is evident. The nonprofit's partnerships with area pantries have only grown, and the response has been positive.

“They are very thankful,” Ewert said regarding food pantry staff who receive his donations.

One of Cross Star's consistent partnerships has been with the Milwaukee Rescue Mission. In a promotional video for the nonprofit, Milwaukee Rescue Mission President Patrick Vanderburgh spoke about how important this relationship has been to the shelter, and how it's about more than just the food.

"We are serving hundreds of men, women and children who are coming off the street, they are experiencing homelessness, they're hungry, they need friendship and community, and so in our dining room, with Mike's help, we're able to provide some great meals that not only feed the stomach, but begin to feed the soul," Vanderburgh said.

The Rescue Mission's head chef, Jeff Oberholtzer, echoed Vanderburgh's statements, noting they prepare 400 to 500 meals a day.

"We rely heavily on our donors for bringing us quality meats, and especially with Cross Star when he brings us this really quality beef and pork," he said in the video. "The guys really appreciate the home-cooked meals here. ... The best way I can make them feel loved and feel at home is by giving them this meal."

Where does Ewert go from here? He hopes to grow and expand Cross Star, including by purchasing more land so he can have more livestock and produce more meat for donation. He's also taking a computer course at Waukesha Area Technical College to improve his technology skills and grow Cross Star through things like setting up an official structure and board.

“I will not give up on it,” Ewert said about his nonprofit organization.

This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: Big Bend rancher raises livestock to help feed the hungry