Dressing for the Apocalypse, Tokyo Fashion Week Style

Much ink has been spilled over the rise and fall of the It bag, but things were pretty clear-cut at Tokyo Fashion Week. There were no clunky box bags in sight and no ladylike top handles; even New Yorkers’ go-to cross-bodies were in short supply. Bags were rarely the story in any of the photographs Kira took for Vogue Runway, in fact. Tokyo’s most stylish guys and girls took a different approach to storage, tucking their belongings into utility vests, harnesses, belt bags, or simply jackets with enormous pockets. Who needs a $4,000 tote when all the stuff you need—phone, keys, wallet, and show tickets—is secured snug against your body?

We have a feeling convenience wasn’t really the draw, though. The uniformly black, silver-buckled looks we saw evoked a survivalist sensibility our Vogue Runway colleague Steff Yotka coined “warcore” last year. It’s a trend that trickled up from the streets and onto the fall 2019 menswear runways, including Prada, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Balmain, Dior Men, Ambush, and Dries Van Noten. Miuccia Prada said she wanted to offer clothes for “a very tough world”; Kim Jones’s luxe tactical vests resembled armor at Dior Men; and Ambush seemed to nod to a dystopian future. All seemed to suggest that in this day and age we should be ready for anything—only take the essentials you can keep safely on your person.

Tokyo Fashion Week street style has a history of being on the cutting edge of trends, so you can expect to see more apocalyptic gear in the months to come. Get started with Ganni’s zippered cotton vest or Amiri’s suede harness, among other options below.

<cite class="credit">Photographed by Kira / Tokyofashion.com</cite>
Photographed by Kira / Tokyofashion.com

Pushbutton belt bag-detailed draped wool-crepe midi-dress

780.00, NET-A-PORTER

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Manu Atelier tech leather belt bag

460.00, MODA OPERANDI

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Ganni Sagamore cotton-blend utility gilet

328.00, FARFETCH

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Ambush harness bag

1401.00, FARFETCH

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Jil Sander mini leather belt bag

590.00, MODA OPERANDI

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Jacquemus Le Manteau Bagli belted herringbone cotton trench coat

1175.00, NET-A-PORTER

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Amiri suede harness bags

990.00, MR PORTER

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Louis Vuitton utility harness bag

2010.00, LOUIS VUITTON

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Prada Monolith mini bag knee high boot

1450.00, NORDSTROM

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L.L.Bean Pa’tridge strap vest II

119.00, LL BEAN

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Staud glossed-leather belt

195.00, NET-A-PORTER

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Heron Preston logo-patch tool vest

411.00, FARFETCH

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Fendi pockets belt bag

1290.00, FARFETCH

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Originally Appeared on Vogue