Dress by Julie de Libran Couture Spring 2020
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Julie de Libran threw open the doors of her home again for the second collection by her fledgling Dress by Julie de Libran label, focused on dresses with a sustainable approach.
There was a charming intimacy to the presentation, even if it didn’t have the full-on house party vibe of her launch last season.
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Models opened the door from a courtyard terrace and stepped into the cozy living room, where a log fire burned in a corner. They wore dresses of every length and description — though with a marked shift toward shorter day looks after last season’s homage to Old Hollywood.
De Libran kicked off with an oversize tuxedo jacket covered in silver sequins, moving on to girlishly brief dresses in a range of patterns and treatments. There was an Eighties tinge to a puff-sleeve minidress in patterned silk, or a one-sleeve herringbone Lurex version with crystal trim.
The former Sonia Rykiel creative director works with deadstock fabrics. “This makes them both rare and unwasteful, two qualities in distressingly short supply these days,” she explained in her show notes.
“They are meant to last, both in the way they look, which transcends today’s fashion trends, and the way they are made, which will allow them to be passed down one day, as I like to imagine they will be,” she added.
While the intention was laudable, some of the dresses appeared too flimsy to become the heirloom pieces she was aiming for. The longer outfits had a more timeless chic, with standouts including a black silk dress with sheer lace insets and cape sleeves.
De Libran closed the display with a flourish: a long-sleeve dress covered with spiky silver fringe. Now wouldn’t that be something for a girl to find in her mother’s closet?
Launch Gallery: Julie de Libran Couture Spring 2020
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