How Does Color-Adjusting Foundation Work? The Science Behind “Universal" Base Makeup
In theory, color-adjusting makeup sounds pretty darn cool, not to mention convenient. A foundation or tinted moisturizer that miraculously matches every single skin tone? Magic. The problem is that it might as well be magic, seeing as, despite clever marketing claims that a formula can be "universally flattering," we're simply not there yet. And who knows if we ever will be? While technologies are constantly progressing, it's nearly impossible to imagine a day when one complexion product will actually be suitable for every skin tone on the spectrum.
To learn how these types of products work and, more importantly, if they work, Allure tapped three cosmetic chemists who spoke to the subject of color-adjusting cosmetics and answered our questions once and for all.
The Technology
"Color-adjusting foundations have not changed much over the years," says cosmetic chemist Ni'Kita Wilson, who is an expert in the ingredients that go into many popular skin-care and makeup products. She explains that unlike "mood-changing" products, which work by adjusting to the pH of your skin, makeup that claims to conform to any skin tone uses a technology known in the chemistry world as encapsulated pigments. "As you rub the product on the skin, the capsules or beads break and the color changes," explains cosmetic chemist and author Perry Romanowski.
According to Kelly Dobos, an expert in makeup formulation who works alongside Romanowski, these capsules are generally less than 100 micrometers in size (for reference, the width of a human hair is between 20 and 200 micrometers), and the true color of the cosmetic is not revealed until the product is applied. Dobos says there are four main pigments used to create different skin tones: titanium dioxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide and black iron oxides. "Small particles of mica or synthetic mica are also included in some pigment capsules to enhance radiance and give some optical blurring effects," she adds.
The Results
The technology sure sounds legit. However, all three experts admit these types of products don't actually adjust to every skin tone out there. "It's more of a marketing gimmick," Romanowski says.
"Although the shade and coverage can be adjusted somewhat, it doesn't guarantee a perfect match for every skin tone," Dobos elaborates, noting that darker skin tones are often underserved. She adds that more experimentation is likely needed in order to regulate factors like color control and level of coverage.
The Verdict
While those with medium skin tones might be able to get away with wearing color-adjusting cosmetics, they're not ideal for people with very fair or dark skin colors. No shade — pun 100 percent intended — against these products, but you should definitely keep the aforementioned expert insight in mind next time you see a makeup item marketed as universal. Sadly, they're not nearly as inclusive as they could be.
Now check out more on makeup knowledge:
22 Full-Coverage Foundations That Can Cover Up Basically Anything
Finally, the Trick to Making Glossy Eye Shadow Stay in Place
Done reading? Watch 100 years in eye makeup:
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