Dion Lee RTW Spring 2020
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For the past few seasons, Dion Lee has played with tailoring to create a language of harmonious contrasts through his clothes — namely of concealment and revelation, masculine and feminine, sensual and utilitarian — resulting in subversive takes on workwear and utility items.
He took a more unisex approach for spring, fitting clothes on men and women, weaving a thread of toughness and edge to offset soft silhouettes. “I think it very much came from me finding that a lot of women around me are dressing in men’s clothes and I think men are more comfortable experimenting with feminine silhouettes,” Lee said after the show, adding: “I think it was about me identifying with the clothes personally, as well, and marrying my personal taste with the brand.”
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He’s touched on men’s pieces in the past, and dived in fully here with a strong assortment of daring pieces for the more adventurous, such as knits with skin-baring keyholes, a sheer sweater with harness outline, or layered tanks with multiple straps.
Through a collaboration with leather goods brand Fleet Ilya, Lee punctuated soft and fluid tonal looks with sculpted bras, harnesses and garter waist belts that hook onto thigh-high boots. “It was really using this motif of hosiery and garters in both men’s and women’s wear,” Lee added.
The first look was a standout amid the opening army of white for its ability to balance full coverage with sex appeal. Additional highlights from the other monochromatic color groupings included a flesh-toned tank with garter accents and harness over fluid pants; a striped military green sweater with open-weave keyholes along the chest, and a black short suit over a multilayered corset. The one dual-toned look, a black leather jacket and drapy pink skirt hybrid that played on exposure in a tamer way, was another standout.
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Launch Gallery: Dion Lee RTW Spring 2020
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