Dion Lee started another strong collection with the introduction of jewelry. As a designer who likes to play with elements of seduction and skin-baring elements, he didn’t just show earrings and necklaces, he wove his unique chain-link constructions through men’s and women’s clothing, making them an intrinsic part of the garment. They gathered fabric, held together the pleats of dresses and created interesting smocking techniques on a hoodie and leather skirt. Viewed up close, you could appreciate the intricacy of how they were engineered through knitwear, running the length of one arm to the other.
That led to the notion of suspension, where chains became waistbands for low-rise pants, and woven underwear (leather and fishnet) peeped through cutouts at the hip and above waistlines. “It’s really focusing on the hip region and the shoulder region in the collection [and] weaving underwear to the outside of clothes or exposing them in different ways,” Lee noted. It was applied to men’s on similar cutout pants contrasted with sexy clingy tanks.
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Lee’s sweet spot is his subversive handling of tailoring — including hook and eye details on blazers that came undone to alluring effect — yet quieter monochromatic looks in soft drapes of blush and rustic orange, and graphic shibori prints were equally compelling. A full wardrobe to pine after? You bet.
Launch Gallery: Dion Lee RTW Fall 2020