Dining at Disney World: 'Re-imaginings' around the realm

ORLANDO, Fla. — The magic of Walt Disney World notwithstanding, it takes more than fairy dust to keep things in the realm maintained and moving forward, and so the scaffolding I spy on the exterior of Disney’s Grand Floridian Resort & Spa on approach — gleaming and gorgeous despite the construction-related accouterments — is a tell that brings to life the work that’s been going on here for the past several years.

Updates, or “reimaginings,” as the team often calls them, abound. Citrico‘s, the newly Michelin-starred Victoria & Albert’s and other spaces within have been retooled in recent years in this circa-1988 spa resort. The latest upgrades were revealed recently when its buffet-style eatery, 1900 Park Fare, reopened its doors last month.

The Grand is WDW’s most opulent stay, its look and design inspired by the seaside resorts of the Victorian era. 1900 Park Fare, with its carousel theming, fits right into the wheelhouse. Those who remember Big Bertha — the antique French pipe organ has been a fixture here since the resort opened — will find her as a focal point in the redesign, along with brand-new touches.

“We’ve stuck to the roots,” says 1900 Park Fare chef Michelle Schutte, who is new to this post but a veteran of this and other resort restaurants since joining the cast in 2019. “It’s inspired by the playful nostalgia of the carousel, and the reimagined space really reflects that … as does the new Impressionist-style artwork that features our beloved characters in their moment of making a wish.”

Indeed, the “wishmakers,” as they are called, figure prominently. The characters of Cinderella, Aladdin, Tiana (“The Princess and the Frog”) and Mirabel (“Encanto”) have a home here, greeting guests and inspiring them to make wishes, as well.

“The food and menu was largely inspired by our wishmakers and the places that they come from,” says Schutte. “For example, Prince Aladdin and our dishes with Moroccan flavors, like the spice-roasted turkey and couscous salad.”

My personal favorite was Tiana’s Gumbo, a hearty nod to New Orleans with a welcome kick that lands harder than one might expect for a buffet. You can put it over rice, sure, but I’d rather save room. In fact, I saw a few slick folks grabbing up a 1900 Park Fare returning favorite — the peel-and-eat shrimp — and adding them to the gumbo. This, of course, is one facet of buffets that’s inarguably fun.

Those more attuned to desserts will find myriad options and longtime fans of 1900 Park Fare’s strawberry soup will see it remains as a staple sweet ending, even amid this eatery’s new beginning.

And speaking of which, plenty of other beginnings are going on elsewhere in the realm.

Shiki-Sai Sushi Izakaya, Epcot

This World Showcase table-service eatery debuted in April 2019 and has re-emerged, following its reimagining, as a more authentic representation of what you’d find in Japan today, says Bob Miller, manager of special projects for Mitsukoshi USA. A sushi counter is among the new features.

“We wanted it to be more interactive and engaging to guests without taking away from the beautiful view of the promenade and lake,” Miller said.

Interestingly, wishes figure into the mix here, as well.

“Guests can fill out a note on supplied paper and depending on which season, either tie their wish on one of our bamboo trees by the entryway or leave a piece of paper under our cherry tree in the spring.”

Menu-wise, more small plates allow for an even better shared experience.

The changes have been well received, says Miller, and that’s not surprising, as it “was a collaboration of years of guest feedback … [creating] a destination where guests can find something on the menu and, with the popularity of sushi, especially with young children, is a place that all can enjoy.”

Flying Fish

This signature spot for seafood, a favorite among locals as well as guests on Disney’s BoardWalk, Flying Fish has gotten a menu makeover courtesy of its new chef, Matthew Eiler, and sommelier, Michael Scheifler. Longtime food and beverage veterans both, Eiler hails from Phoenix, Arizona, and Schleifer from Vienna, Austria. They have been with the company since 2012 and 2008.

Recently, the restaurant got a sleek, sexy new look, but, says Eiler, “it’s the quality of the food and dining experience that will ultimately determine its success in the long run. A new chef will bring a fresh perspective to the kitchen, culinary ideas as well as new flavors.”

While Eiler and his team have stayed true to the foundation of Flying Fish, which is seafood and steak, “some of the exciting new dishes we are showcasing are the Hawaiian hamachi with strawberry verjus using local Florida berries, as well as the new pork belly with peach bourbon glacé, finished with charred onion vinaigrette. The Chilean sea bass with asparagus and ras el hanout adds an inclusive cultural flair…”

Both hamachi and sea bass have proven to be new guest favorites, he says, but as always, there are old favorites that even new chefs must respect. The potato-wrapped snapper persists as a perennial favorite, says Eiler.

“It’s a dish that has stood the test of time with its charm and culinary allure,” he says. “It has been on the menu since Day One, but each chef, including myself, has added their culinary spin in terms of presentation.”

Disney Springs Newcomer: Summer House on the Lake

There are Summer House restaurants in Chicago, Las Vegas and North Bethesda, Maryland. There are even a few airport versions (including the one at MCO’s new Terminal C). Chef Ben Goodnick, who oversees all of them, falls short of calling the brand’s Disney Springs location, Summer House on the Lake, “the fairest of them all” (though that would be very Disney of him), but it is the largest venue in the portfolio to date.

“And I don’t know that there’s anyplace more summery, with more of a vacation vibe, than Disney Springs,” Goodnick told the Orlando Sentinel. “Even if you live here as a local, I feel like when you come to Disney Springs and step foot into that space, onto this lakeside property … it’s like you don’t have a care in the world, it’s a feeling that’s intrinsic to Disney, to Orlando.”

Central Florida’s weather helps, to be sure, and its prime location on Lake Buena Vista doesn’t hurt. Prime patio and other al fresco space, light colors, airy rooms and lots of plants keep the atmosphere breezy and bright.

“There’s a preponderance of natural light,” Goodnick notes. Indeed, even with its high volume, the place feels more spacious than you might expect. “We have plenty of tables, and we don’t try to cram people in. We’ve made huge efforts to keep things moving while still providing our style of service.”

Which is based on summer, on vacation, and so relaxed is what they’re going for. It’s evident in two features prominent at all the brand’s venues: the cookie counter and the Rosé Cart.

“The first thing you see when you walk into every Summer House, the thing that’s right in your face, is the cookie counter,” says Goodnick. “In Disney. it’s three times as big as other places.”

There are also Disney-exclusive flavors, like the Orange Dreamsicle and Fudge Bomb. Even better, you can take your cookie, your iced coffee — even your rosé — for a walk since beverages are allowed out the door at Disney Springs. Rosé aficionados might even find varieties new and exciting.

“We try to focus primarily on American and California wines, but there are areas in California that aren’t necessarily the heart of Napa, like Santa Barbara and the Russian River Valley, that make some fun and interesting rosé … which of course is incredibly summery.”

The new place, he adds, has been welcomed in by its neighbors, and it’s a nice feeling.

“I think a little healthy competition is good for all of us; it keeps us sharp and fresh,” Goodnick says, noting some of his favorite fare here (Frontera’s queso fundido, the coconut shrimp from The Boathouse, “and everything at Morimoto is so good!”), “but everyone has been amazing. There was even a time I ran out of butter and needed to borrow some, and it was like going to a neighbor’s house for a cup of sugar. We trade family meals [with teams from other restaurants], have taco parties, ice cream, whatever.”

Six months in, he says that the staff is finding its groove. Lots of specials are on deck to give returning locals new and exciting options, the Disney location has inspired some whimsical offerings you can’t find elsewhere, and local purveyors — Lake Meadow Naturals, Frog Song Organics, others — are making it into the menu mix as relationships develop.

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