Newness at New York label Deveaux isn’t about a wholesale discarding of pieces from season’s past, rather it’s about offering new ideas with garments people can slot into their existing wardrobe for an update on their personal style. For creative director Tommy Ton, spring was a way to build on the ideas he put forth in his fall offering. It’s the way most people shop, looking to update their look rather than doing a complete stylistic about-face.
“I like to think of clothes as investment dressing,” Ton said backstage pre-show, adding that “the freedom summer brings” was a jumping-off point for spring.
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His silhouettes were still languid and tonal, in shades of camel, olive and creams. Standouts were a monochromatic sandy-colored ribbed tunic over a flared pant, easy jumpsuits and a mannishly proportioned suit in olive with a waist belt that produced a structured hourglass effect. A black satin shirtdress felt seasonless and good for day or night, much like many of the looks in his collection.
The freedom of summer inspired him to add a print based on summer images of Ipanema, as on an oversize pajama-style short-and-top combo and a carefree shirtdress with handkerchief hem.
Last season he chose to show in a performance-art style, and even if he returned to the runway this season, it still was quite a performance, as his models smiled and bopped to the sounds of a live band singing a Janet Jackson cover, complete with a dynamic drum corp.
“You know when you listen to your jams on your headphones and do your strut. It’s that inner model energy we all channel,” he said with a smile.
He once again cast a wide net with his models, showing the collection on a mix of ethnicities, ages and gender expressions, all of which added to a joyful and exuberant update on his idea of uniform dressing.
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Launch Gallery: Deveaux RTW Spring 2020