Designers Emphasize Coatings and Washes in Spring/Summer 2024 Men’s Collections
Pharrell Williams’ debut as the men’s creative director for Louis Vuitton might have been the most hotly anticipated event on the men’s fashion week calendar, but there was more to see than monogrammed jeans and celebrity-studded front rows.
Spring/Summer 2024 men’s and dual-gender collections homed in on impactful denim designs that support their point of view for the season. The jeans were printed and coated. Rises were low; others reached new heights and washes spanned pale to pure indigo.
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Designers approached novelty denim in various ways but shine and sparkle was one of the most effective ways to attract attention.
Loewe bedazzled ultra-high-waisted jeans in colorful crystals. Charles Jeffrey Loverboy took to shine as well with denim coordinates covered in clear sequins. 3.Pradis decorated slouchy jeans with various shades of metallic green coatings.
Egonlab applied a clear coating to low-rise jeans for a plastic look. Valentino did the same effect to a slouchy dark-wash jean and matching shacket. Wooyoungmi applied a metallic silver coating to baggy jeans.
Other designers went in a gritter direction.
Etudes channeled utility fashion with shredded double-front jeans, denim zip-up vests with safari pockets and black denim overdyed with high-vis orange. Kidill spliced half-zip tops, while Paco Rabanne ripped and shredded wide-leg jeans.
Split-knee jeans were part of several collections including Etudes and Dhruv Kapoor. JunnJ tangled models in skirts, jackets and jeans that had extra legs and arms tied around their waists.
Dsquared2 stayed true to its rock-inspired style, showing jeans and vests with inlaid star patches, crystal-studded boot-cut jeans, peek-a-boo tops and low-rise skinnies.
Polka-dot printed denim jackets, jeans and shorts added a playful vibe to Facetasm’s collection.
Acne Studios and System opted for jeans with moto stitching. Kenzo laser-printed roses on dark wash denim coordinates.
Jeans with multiple waistbands returned, seen in System’s collection and Andersson Bell’s Milan debut. The latter also presented jean jackets with chop-outs, cargo jeans and garments made with woven stripes of denim. Multiple belts were threaded through the statement pieces.
Marine Serre used deadstock fabrics for a line that spanned logo-printed blue jeans and bra tops to a gown made of denim strips in various washes.
The “quiet luxury” trend was seen across collections.
Raw denim added a crisp look to Bianca Saunders’ work shirts, jeans and shorts. The fabric was a perfect fit for Fendi’s apron tops inspired by the workwear worn by its own craftspeople and artisans.
Etro, Isabel Marant and Darkpart were among the labels opting for wider fits and clean washes. Plan C’s denim tunic tops and relaxed blue jeans exuded effortless vacation style. Solid Homme’s light-wash bomber jackets were coordinated with long jean shorts in the same wash.
Bleached-out washes soften the look of Courréges’ patch-pocket jeans and knee-length skirts. Light washes were also part of Ami’s and 1017 ALYX 9SM’s collections. The Row showed ripped and plain-front light jeans with its luxurious basics like button-down shirts and shackets.
