Dermatologists Are Touting the Benefits of Microneedling, but Is It Worth the Hype?
From dermaplaning to light therapy, it seems like there are infinite beauty treatments available these days. If you’ve been following the latest skincare trends, you might have heard of the benefits of microneedling—a minimally invasive treatment that claims to boost the skin’s collagen production.
Microneedling is a fairly simple treatment that offers major skin benefits, from a glowing complexion to filling in acne scars and fine lines. If, like us, you’re curious about the concept, we tapped experts to share everything you need to know about the trendy procedure, including its side effects, how to prepare for the treatment, and who should steer clear of it altogether.
What is microneedling and how does it work?
“Microneedling is collagen induction therapy that occurs with a device that contains microscopic needles, usually about 20, that vibrate back and forth and are glided over the skin with the aid of some topical gliding gel or lotion,” explains Corey L. Hartman, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology. “The needles penetrate the epidermis and create little channels that can allow products to flow easier into the skin but also stimulate production of collagen and elastin.”
This increase in collagen and elastin production is the key to the procedure’s many benefits. These proteins are responsible for the “firm but flexible elasticity to the skin,” says Shoma Datta Thomas, M.D., health tech advisor and practitioner at Modern Age. “So we’re really getting a rejuvenation [of the skin] in that way, which is the end point of microneedling.”
So, what can you expect when getting a microneedling treatment done? First, your practitioner will cleanse your skin to ensure it is free from any dirt, oil, or makeup. Then they will apply a topical numbing cream to the surface of the skin which will sit for an average of 30 minutes. This cream will help decrease the sensation of the needles to make the treatment as pain-free and comfortable as possible. However, “certain places on the face are more sensitive than others like the upper lip, around the eyes, and forehead,” notes Dr. Rabach.
What are the benefits of microneedling?
Microneedling stacks up against many skin concerns by offering a rejuvenation of the skin that doesn’t stop in the office. Below find out four of the main benefits of microneedling to determine if it’s right for you:
1. Smooths fine lines and wrinkles
All the experts note that microneedling treatments are fantastic for reducing the visible signs of aging, which include tackling fine lines and wrinkles. Morgan Rabach, M.D., board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of LM Medical, further explains that activation of collagen production is key for these anti-aging benefits and smoothing of lines.
2. Diminishes acne scarring
If you’ve suffered from severe acne, the lesion may have left some pesky marks behind: indented scars or hyperpigmentation. The good news is that microneedling can help! With treatment, “we see diminishing [of] acne scarring,” says Dr. Dotta Thomas. “The way it diminishes and fills in those areas can be really effective.” More even pigmentation is another great benefit noted by Dr. Rablach, who also cautions that the treatment is “not advised for active infections or severe active acne,” to avoid spreading infection.
3. Boosts radiance
Another positive aspect of microneedling is that it can lead to a more radiant complexion and provide a natural glow to the skin. “It makes the skin thicker, and increases luminosity by making it smoother,” explains Dr. Hartman. The overall production of collagen and elastin induced by the procedure is truly game-changing for combating a dull complexion and overall smoothing.
4. Improves texture
Textural irregularities like large pores, small bumps, and roughness can also be improved by microneedling. “These micro-injuries [caused by microneedling] cause collagen to form, making the skin smoother, tighter, [with] smaller pores,” says Dr. Rablach.
Something important to note: One treatment is generally “not enough,” explains Dr. Hartman. If you’re looking for results that include extreme reduction in something like acne scarring, deep wrinkles, and lines, or something more profound, you will need a series of treatments. Dr. Hartman recommends at least three treatments, but for more serious concerns that number increases to about six to eight. The treatments are done approximately every four to six weeks to allow healing in between.
Microneedling side effects
Microneedling “is very friendly, and in the research we see the long-term effects and risks like hyperpigmentation and scarring are very, very rare,” explains Dr. Datta Thomas.
The next bit of good news is that the treatment isn’t nearly as painful as it seems. “A lot of social media shows lots of blood and bleeding with microneedling but the desired endpoint is what’s called pinpoint bleeding,” explains Dr. Rablach. “This is tiny bits of bleeding during the microneedling that stops immediately after.”
The main side effects, per Dr. Hartman include the below, and tend to resolve in one to three days:
Redness
Darkening of skin on darker skin tones
Pinpoint marks of dried blood on the surface of the skin
Slight swelling
Peeling
Minor pain
“With darker skin tones you may notice a bit of darkening of the skin, some hyperpigmentation, which at first may be a little concerning,” notes Dr. Datta Thomas. “But what we see is that as the skin goes through the process of healing, it actually becomes very refreshed.”
While the treatment is generally safe for all, Dr. Datta Thomas warns that if you tend to have very sensitive skin or a darker skin tone, you should heed a bit of caution in selecting an experienced provider and consider doing a test patch first, due to the risk of pigmentation related side effects.
“Overall what we see is that this is a very good generalized treatment for the population and the long-term risks are very small,” Dr. Datta Thomas continues.
Can you perform microneedling at home?
Microneedling has risen in popularity over the last few years thanks to the many benefits and minimal downtime associated with the treatment. But because of this, many try taking the treatment into their own hands with a DIY approach by using at-home dermarollers, pens, and kits. However, our experts caution against doing it yourself—for good reason.
Despite being a non-invasive procedure, Dr. Rablach cautions that the treatment “still needs to be done by a medical professional to decrease the chance of complications like skin infection.” When microneedling is left to the professionals, your skin, and everything that comes into contact with your skin, will be clean and bacteria-free.
Additionally, in-office treatments are much more effective than any sort of at-home approach. “At home microneedling kits usually use a depth of 0.2mm and target the outer layers of skin,” Dr. Rablach explains. “In-office medical microneedling depth is around 2.5-3mm,” which penetrates deeper into the skin and stimulates the sought-after collagen production and skin benefits you’re likely looking for.
How to prep your skin for microneedling
The good news is, there isn’t much you need to do to prepare for a microneedling session. The most important thing to do the week prior to your treatment is to discontinue the use of retinols/retinoids and alpha or beta hydroxy acids (think: glycolic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid) as these ingredients can be sensitizing, according to the experts. Additionally, if you are using certain medications, you should definitely let your practitioner know beforehand.
Prior to your appointment, keeping your skincare super simple is best. “Less is more for the day of,” notes Dr. Datta Thomas. Use “just soap and water.” Once you begin the treatment your face will be cleansed and prepped with alcohol or acetone “to make sure it’s as fresh and clean and free of grease or oil as possible,” explains Dr. Hartman. “If you can help out by not having makeup on, that helps, but we’re gonna get all of that off before we get started for sure.”
What to do right after microneedling
After your treatment, you’ll notice the slight skin sensitivity and redness our experts noted. In order to minimize downtime, keeping your post-microneedling approach as simple as possible is key.
Our experts emphasize the importance of sun protection immediately following the treatment as your skin will be in a heightened state of sensitivity to UV rays. Additionally, “a gentle skincare regimen that uses emollients for a few days is the best way to care for the skin afterward,” explains Dr. Hartman. “We recommend the patients not adopt their regular routine because of those channels [created by the treatment] and increased absorption, you could get an exaggerated response to certain ingredients.”
The ingredients that should be avoided post-procedure include the same ones experts recommend to avoid pre-procedure: ingredients like retinol/retinoids, hydroxy acids, or anything exfoliating. Makeup should also be avoided for at least 24 hours after the treatment.
While you take a break from your normal routine for a few days and await a rejuvenated complexion, try out some skin-soothing products below to speed up healing:
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