Dermatologists Say These Serums Work Wonders on Breakouts and Blackheads

If you deal with acne regularly, you know how frustrating it can be to keep those pesky spots under control. You’ve tried potent spot treatments, fancy face washes, and oil-absorbing masks, but you have yet to wander into Serum Land because… how do you know which one to buy? With all the claims skincare labels make, it can feel really confusing. But you can absolutely benefit from a serum if you’re acne-prone—you just have to find one that works for your specific needs.

“Serums are great because they’re highly concentrated, they’re cosmetically elegant, and they’re easy to layer,” explains Mona Gohara, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist based in Connecticut and a member of Prevention’s Medical Review Board.

Because serums contain a high dose of a beneficial ingredient (or ingredients), they offer more bang for your buck. However, that also makes them potentially irritating. “If you’re already managing your acne with products that can be irritating,” such as a prescribed cream or spot treatment, “[adding a serum] might be too much,” says Orit Markowitz, M.D., F.A.A.D., and CEO and Founder of OptiSkin. However, ajusting your routine as needed can offset any redness, peeling, or purging (meaning you break out even more at first).

How to choose the best serum for acne-prone skin

✔️ Know your actives: There are many different active ingredients that, when formulated into a serum, could potentially aid in managing acne. But it’s important to know what they are and how they work before you buy:

• Retinol, a vitamin A derivative, isn’t just an anti-ager. Because it increases skin cell turnover, Dr. Gohara says it’s also “a tried and true acne treatment.” But its powerful nature makes it potentially irritating. Recommended use is once a day (every other, if you are just starting), at night. Many times, acne patients prefer to try a retinol prescribed by their dermatologist first.
• Hydroxy acids are alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) such as glycolic and lactic and beta hydroxy acids (BHA) such as salicylic acid that exfoliate the skin’s top layer and unclog the pores, respectively. If overused, they can dry out the skin. Recommended use is typically once a day, at night.
• Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, is anti-inflammatory and will “work on pustules, tenderness, and redness,” says Ava Shamban, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in California. It also helps balance the skin’s oil production. As a less irritating ingredient, it can be used morning and night.
• Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps even skin tone and fade acne scarring. Recommended use is daily in the morning followed by sunscreen, per Dr. Gohara.
• Hyaluronic acid hydrates skin that is dried out or irritated by excessive treatment and can be used as needed.

✔️ Watch for oils: “Cardinal rule one is to avoid the oil-based serums if you’re acne-prone,” says Dr. Markowitz. Non-comedogenic is another buzzword to look for to ensure a product was designed to not clog pores.

✔️ Choose the right cocktails: Many serums on the market contain a mix of the ingredients above. For example, you might find a salicylic acid serum that also contains hyaluronic acid. That’s good, because as salicylic exfoliates, hyaluronic acid hydrates and repairs.

✔️ Start slow: In other words, don’t buy one of everything and start slathering. “You always have to make sure that you’re using a small amount (the size of a pea) and working up gradually so that you’re not irritating your skin,” says Dr. Gohara. If you’re using more than one potentially drying serum, try implementing them on alternate nights. (And remember, serum is applied after cleansing and before moisturizer or sunscreen.)

Now that you’ve taken a crash course in serums, check out the derm-approved picks below if you have acne-prone skin.