The Dermatologist’s Guide to Building a Skincare Routine

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Nearly everyone has some form of skincare routine. What makes yours unique is whether that routine is one step or 10, simple or intricate, dermatologist-approved or TikTok-influenced. But the best skincare routines aren’t flashy or time-consuming—they’re simply functional.

“Overall, a consistent skincare routine will make your skin look its best,” says Corey L. Hartman, founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama. Consistency—as you may have guessed—is key. But there’s more to it than simply applying your products every day.

“While a skincare routine doesn’t have to be overly extensive, it is important that it’s consistent, and involves steps that feel easy and accessible for you to follow on a regular basis,” says Julia Schwartz, a board-certified dermatologist and dermatology advisor for the direct-to-patient healthcare company Ro. “The number of steps involved in your skincare routine matters less than what the steps are accomplishing for your skincare goals and if you’re able to keep up with them.”

As a starting point, she says, “I recommend that every skincare routine include a cleanser, a moisturizer, and, if it’s right for you, a product containing a retinoid.” Seems simple enough, right? Below, we’re breaking down all the ins and outs of building a skincare routine—for both morning and nighttime—with expert advice from both Hartman and Schwartz.

Do you need to have a skincare routine?

Well, you don’t need to do anything—but yes, having a skincare routine is recommended by experts. Again: “Consistency in a skincare routine is essential for maintaining skin health, preventing issues, and reaping the full benefits of the products you use,” says Schwartz.

But an important thing to note is that “routine” simply means the basics: cleansing, moisturizing, using sunscreen. Everything else is added value.

“From a functional perspective, regularly washing your skin removes dirt, oil, and bacteria from your skin, which is important from a health perspective,” says Hartman. “As we age, our skin also loses some of its natural radiance and moisturizer, so by incorporating a few skincare products into your daily routine, you can help restore moisture and other key ingredients to make skin look its best.”

The next step is figuring out what products are best for you and your skin, which can be determined with the help of a dermatologist or licensed aesthetician. “It’s important to choose products that suit your skin type and concerns and to follow a routine that works for you,” Schwartz says. “Consulting with a trained healthcare provider can help you create a personalized skincare plan—you can even see providers virtually through a service like Ro.”

As for specific products and ingredients, Hartman recommends focusing on what he calls the “holy trinity of skincare”: antioxidants, retinol, and sunscreen. “Applying the right mix of the holy trinity will not only slow signs of premature aging, like fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots, but can also help reverse some of the damage already done,” says the derm.

Once you have your regular skincare routine set, you can make adjustments, whether you’re skin cycling or calibrating it according to the season. “The essence of skin cycling is doing a regular cycle of products,” explains Hartman. “The viral [concept of] skin cycling as of late had consumers doing one night with a focus on exfoliation products, another night with a focus on retinol, and then two nights without using any kind of retinol or exfoliating product and just moisturizers. That might work well for you, or you can choose a different cycle in terms of products or how often you use them.”

The benefit of this type of routine is that it lets you incorporate various active ingredients without being too harsh on skin. “Skin cycling can be beneficial for patients with sensitive skin, or who are new to using retinol products, as giving your skin more time in between use can reduce the risk of irritation,” Hartman says.

The best order to apply skincare products

The first step is always washing your face. After that, “Skincare should be applied from the thinnest product to the thickest,” says Hartman. Your morning routine and evening routines will have some crossover, but they also have key differences. “In the morning, the order would be: cleanser, toner, serum, moisturizer, sunscreen,” he explains. “The evening would be: makeup remover, cleanser, retinol, [and] moisturizer or night cream.”

Targeted treatments get added in strategically, he notes: “Apply a spot treatment right after your serum. Apply your eye cream when you apply moisturizer to the skin.”

Finally, there are skincare treatments like microcurrent and gua sha. Check the directions for specifics, but, Hartman says, “You should incorporate tools into your routine always with clean skin, and depending on the tool, you can use it during or just after your serum or moisturizer step.”

How to build a morning skincare routine

Once again, Hartman says: “A skincare routine does not need several steps to be effective.” Here’s a basic routine to start with:

1. Cleanser: “Use a gentle cleanser in the morning on your face,” says Hartman. However, he adds, “Not everyone feels they need to cleanse their face in the morning after cleansing and doing a full routine the night before, so if you are one of those people, you can skip.”

2. Toner: If you have a toner, apply it now, after cleansing but before you move on to serum, which has a thicker texture.

3. Serum: Hartman says to “apply an antioxidant serum all over the face and wait a few minutes to let it absorb.” He recommends Glossier Super Glow, which “uses a more gentle version of vitamin C—magnesium ascorbic phosphate—versus the pure L ascorbic acid, which makes it a great option for first-time vitamin C users who want a brightened complexion.”
   
   

   
   
   If you have oily skin, the derm recommends SkinCeuticals Silymarin CF, a vitamin C serum designed for oily and acne-prone skin. “This is a serum I use personally—it reduces oiliness, improves skin clarity, and refines skin texture, all while providing protecting from environmental stressors,” he says.
   
   

   
   

4. Moisturizer: Next, it’s time to protect the skin and seal in hydration. “For those who need extra moisturization, especially in the winter months, I recommend using a hydrating moisturizer, like Ro’s Enriching Cream, formulated with ceramides and shea butter, which can keep your skin protected and support the skin barrier all day long,” Schwartz says.

5. Sunscreen: Both derms agree this step can’t be skipped. “For all of my patients, no matter their age or skin type, I recommend sunscreen of SPF 30 or more to be applied every morning to the face, neck, and hands,” Schwartz says. Hartman’s choice is Isdin’s Eryfotona Actinica Ultralight Emulsion Broad Spectrum SPF 50+, a lightweight mineral sunscreen that won’t irritate sensitive skin types.

   
   
   
   

How to build a nighttime skincare routine

1. Cleanse: Washing your face may be optional in the morning, but not so much before bed. “It’s a nonnegotiable to cleanse your skin at night, after being out and about all day,” says Hartman, adding, “If you wear makeup, remove your makeup with a makeup remover product and then cleanse the face with a gentle cleanser.” Or, try a double cleanse. “Some people like to do a double cleanse, with an oil-based cleanser followed by a deeper cleanse with a water-based cleanser, but this is not always necessary, especially if you do not use a lot of makeup,” says Schwartz.

2. Exfoliate: In general, derms recommend against exfoliating every night, to avoid damaging the skin barrier. However, on nights you are adding in a physical or chemical exfoliation step, you’ll want to do so after you wash your face, and prior to applying targeted treatments.

3. Serum: If you’re using a hyaluronic acid serum for extra hydration or niacinamide serum to help even skin tone, you would apply it now. For some, this and step 4 may be one and the same.

4. Treatment: This step depends on your skin’s specific issues, such as acne, discoloration, or fine lines and wrinkles. If you aren’t targeting any particular skin concerns, you can skip ahead to step 5.
   
   When it comes to preventing signs of aging, Schwartz says, “The most bang-for-your-buck ingredient for nighttime use is definitely a retinoid product, which should be applied to dry skin after cleaning and before a moisturizer. Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from vitamin A that are used in skincare to promote skin renewal, improve texture, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.”
   
   Retinoids are available both over the counter and as prescription treatments. “A prescription retinoid like Altreno is going to be my first choice for patients, but if you are looking for an over-the-counter retinol, try the RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Serum,” says Hartman. “Its formula helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, even deeper-set ones.”
   
   

   
   
   If you’re looking to address breakouts, this is where you would apply a spot treatment. “If you have acne-prone skin, SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Clearing Serum is fantastic, with retinol and salicylic acid to help with the skin’s overall appearance and treatment of acne,” says Hartman. “I love that it has two powerhouse ingredients in the retinol and salicylic acid, but it won’t dry out the skin. I personally use this product when needed.”
   
   

   
   

5. Moisturizer: After you’ve let serums and treatments absorb and dry for about two minutes, you can apply your moisturizer. You may want to use a heavier face cream for overnight, especially if you have dry or mature skin.

6. Eye cream: Lastly, it’s time for eye cream, which is applied underneath and around the orbital bone. “I like Orvos Satin Eye Gel Cream. One of its active ingredients is bakuchiol, a plant-based retinol alternative that targets dullness, uneven skin texture, and fine lines,” Hartman says. “It’s ideal for patients who cannot tolerate retinol. The formula also uses green tea extract that calms irritation and soothes redness, and caffeine helps naturally depuff the skin.”
   
   

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