Debuts, Diesel and Distinctive Dressing: Your Definitive Recap of MFW SS24
Milan Fashion Week's renaissance is in full motion bringing heritage players and emerging designers alike to the Spring/Summer 2024 spectacle. This season, Italy's fashion capital housed a collection of creative director debuts from Gucci to Bally while Francesca Murri made presented her first collection as creative director of Fiorucci. Prada and Bottega Venetta delivered elevated, quiet luxury with a focus on global craftsmanship while SUNNEI and AVAVAV focused on immersive concepts involving stress and judgment.
Elsewhere, brands brought Milanese fashion communities into the mix from Diesel's open-to-the-public rave to The Attico's runway on a neighborhood block. New faces also hit the runway including Natalia Bryant for Versace and Sabrina Bahsoon's attendance at BOSS. If you're lucky, you might have caught glimpses of Rosalía, Erykah Badu and Lori Harvey making the city streets their catwalk.
Read on for Hypebae's recap of Milan Fashion Week SS24 and in case you missed it, check out our London Fashion Week highlights.
Diesel Welcomed 7,000 Guests to Its Rainy Rave
Glenn Martens is not one to shy away from a party. Since his entry to the brand, the creative director has been throwing larger than life fashion week presentations that are open to the public and oozing in dopamine. Following the success of its Fall/Winter 2023 showcase which saw models strut around a mountain of Durex x Diesel condoms, SS24 went big, and went home – very late.
On the rainiest night of MFW, Diesel's eight hour party started with a star studded runway presentation. The collection consisted of new iterations of the 1DR bag, shredded double denim and the resurgence of its now polarizing, chrome beauty looks. It's safe to say we are, well and truly, "Under the influence of D."
Cormio Took a Stance for Women Worldwide
Born in 2019, Cormio blends blokecore and grunge to envision the next-gen uniform of empowered women. At the helm is Jezabelle Cormio whose distinct voice for rebellion and autonomy sheds light on themes of motherhood, pay gaps and the male gaze in her SS24 showcase. Cormio lays down the facts in the show notes: "Women make up more than 70% of the total workforce in the fashion industry, but they hold less than 25% of leadership positions in top fashion companies."
As for the collection, standout items include the return of the football purse in a variety of vibrant colorways as well as the brand's first UGG collaboration. Lace and strings make a recurring appearance on pants and skirts while muted legwarmers give the looks a mix-and-match appeal. Bikinis and boxers were also introduced as garments to be layered, not hidden.
Simone Bellotti Made His Debut at Bally
Replacing Rhuigi Villaseñor as Creative Director, Simone Bellotti entered the Bally chat for his first showcase – marking the second debut for the brand in the past year. With previous roles ranging from Bottega Veneta to Dolce & Gabbana, Bellotti comes to Bally with rich experience in craft and reinventing the wheel for luxury players.
For his SS24 collection, the Italian designer focused on pale blues and navy pairings, for the quiet luxury type. Sheer was used in both mens and womens looks while the single graphic print of the collection was a dreamy, strawberry glazed graphic.
Han Kjøbenhavn Collaborated With Sex Toy Brand, Sinful
Set in front of the city's famous Duomo, Han Kjøbenhavn presented its co-ed SS24 pret-á-portier collection with a neoclassical touch. Mirroring the shapes in its surrounding, the brand revived it's structural garments using futuristic frameworks and metals. In true Han Kjøbenhavn style, models were drapped in beautifully crafted armor including chunky leather boots with metal spikes and exaggerated shoulder extensions.
The team collaborated with Sinful to launch a series of erotic accessories. A standout piece from the partnership included Sinful's Tongue toy which transformed into a flared mesh dress. Founder of Sinful Mathilde Machowski shared in the show notes: "Fashion and pleasure are totally connected. It's all about exploring and being playful."
Stress and Judgment Were Top of Mind
Concepts of collections are a tool for open dialogue surrounding the current landscape of the fashion industry. When done right, they can change brand perception and position fashion products more aptly in the now. With the cost of living crisis, constant content clutter online and rising pressure for emerging brands to find a path between the two, AVAVAV and SUNNEI separately sold these dichotomies in their SS24 offerings. Both labels always make an impression on the MFW circuit with their fresh storytelling and immersive audience participation and this season was no different.
Stockholm-based brand AVAVAV's "Stress"collection showcased models angrily running down the catwalk in garments with statements including "ADD SHAPE" and "NO TIME TO DESIGN." SUNNEI's approach allowed audience members to judge the collection in real time with numbered paddles. While distinct, AVAVAV and SUNNEI presented a refreshing, behind-the-scenes look at what it means to design today.
MM6 Maison Margiela Spoke Body Language
MM6 Maison Margiela experimented with non verbal gestures that define clothing through tilted body postures and an emphasis on the hand. The SS24 collection used its garments as a communication tool, both literally and figuratively, with aprons printed with "Allongè" and "Satinè" to describe each piece. Brand staples such as the lab coat and butcher apron were additionally reinterpreted with pockets, slips, ribbons and ties. Plunging V necklines and tall sleeveless coats pushed this concept further by playing with new silhouette proportions.
Working with your hands was explored in the craftsmanship of the accessories and footwear. Round toe boots mirrored that of kitchen safety footwear while a new iteration of its Mary Jane Salomon collaboration offered comfortability in style.
Sabato De Sarno Set A New Standard for Gucci
MFW SS24 marked a new era for Gucci led by Sabato De Sarno. Attended by the likes of Ryan Gosling and Kendall Jenner, the showcase revealed a blending of styles including classic blazers, bedazzled dresses, wide leg jeans and neon trench coats. Celebrating life's simple pleasures, the collection reinterpreted the classic white T-shirt and monochromatic hoodie with debossed Gucci lettering. As the industry becomes more logo-less each season, Gucci is firmly cemented in communicating it's brand heritage through its globally sough-after GG staples.
