David Koma RTW Spring 2020

Natalie Theodosi

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David Koma built his brand, which is marking 10 years this season, around sizzling, figure-hugging cocktail dresses geared toward women with busy social calendars and a flair for commanding attention.

For his spring 2020 show, held outside an East London skyscraper, he offered plenty of those signature dresses, from mini numbers featuring geometric cuts all over, to sharp blazer dresses and a bold finalé section filled with va-va-voom gowns and tailored jumpsuits embellished with laser-cut plexiglass, raffia and crystals galore in zebra patterns.

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By stripping back the color this season and sticking to black and white for his eveningwear section, Koma shifted the focus on his impressive ability to cut a sharp silhouette with almost mathematical precision.

As he thinks of his next decade in business, Koma is also starting to broaden his collections into daywear. For the first time, he offered an extensive array of such options, which made for the most interesting part of the show.

He translated daywear through his glamorous lens yet nothing was too much: There were cool trenchcoats layered with denim or embellished with transparent sequins to create a liquid effect; light satin coats worn over minidresses to add a more laid-back touch; and loose pants in baby blue or bright orange shades that added a pop of color and tied in to a Kenya-inspired, wildlife theme the designer loosely translated throughout the range. (He recently traveled to that African country.)

“This is the classic approach to what I normally do, it’s very mathematical, very sharp, but we also tried to bring in more layers, a bit more volume and a little more reality. It reflects where we are at right now, with a hint of where we want to go in the future,” said Koma.

Launch Gallery: David Koma RTW Spring 2020

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