Dark Washes, Coated Denim Trend at London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks

Relaxed and loose was the main denim story, once again, in London, Milan and Paris despite Miu Miu’s effort to revive the low-rise skinny jean.

Wide-leg jeans and drapey denim trousers gave an elevated yet casual vibe to the Fall/Winter 2024-2025 collections by Alessandro Vigilante, Elisabetta Franchi, Zimmermann, Dice Kayek and more. The bottoms were often balanced by menswear-inspired blazers, billowy tops and oversize knits.

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The jeans also provided a foundation for the season’s color and texture trends.

Dark washes and raw denim pervaded the runways. In a collection inspired by wildness, Versace used raw denim in unexpected proportions like a maxi-length duster overcoat and and prim jacket with bracelet-length sleeves.

Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham

Dark denim was part of Elie Saab’s upscale interpretation of Western and double denim. Victoria Beckham elongated the rise of jeans and collars of denim jackets of its dark wash coordinates. Coperni kept its dark wash denim lean with flare jeans and pencil skirts.

In his debut for Alexander McQueen, creative director Seán McGirr secured jeans to the legs of models with denim ties. Balenciaga turned jeans into tops with some creative draping. Vetements gave the hems of its jeans long tails. Others featured tiers of cargo pockets in various colors.

Vetements
Vetements

Special finishes gave denim unique looks as well.

Coated and cracked denim was part of Diesel’s collection built on four pillars: denim, pop, utility and artisanal. The Glenn Martens-led label, which used its live-streaming audience as a backdrop to the show, paired the denim with faux fur, trompe l’oeil prints and burnt jersey for tactile effects.

Diesel
Diesel

Ambush played with shadow patch effects on its wide assortment of washed-down jeans. The technique was used on jackets, miniskirts and jeans. The Levi’s collaborator also leaned into dirty tints for long jean shorts. In London, Masha Popova applied crocodile-inspired texture, color and tie-dye effects to low-rise jeans and skinny jeans with a split hem. Vaquera focused on black acid wash for its range of maxi skirts and drop-waist dresses.

For Chanel, a simple glossy coating was enough for its chore jacket and cuffed jeans.