The Year of the Creative Director Shuffle in Fashion
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Amid all the talk about celebrity endorsements, destination shows, and sustainability in luxury, the fashion industry also faced a series of major changes in leadership in 2022. Some left their jobs, others closed their namesake labels. It didn't use to be like this.
“Back in the day, designers didn’t shuffle around this much,” says a couture adviser to private clients like the late Anne Bass and royal families in the United Arab Emirates. “Now, it’s all a big chess game."
In November, Alessandro Michele ended his eight-year tenure at the helm of Gucci; he had been working at the company for more than 20 years. While there, his gender-fluid, 1970s silhouettes and bright colors changed the look of the label and resonated with shoppers and celebrities alike; Jared Leto, Lana Del Rey and Harry Styles were all fans. Michele even collaborated with other brands like Supreme and Balenciaga, which expanded his reach beyond its core customer base. Why the shift? The trade newspaper Women's Wear Daily reported that François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive officer at Kering, Gucci's parent company, was "looking at a change of pace for the group’s star brand." Michele leaves behind a rich legacy, and the introduction of a high-jewelry line, which T&C previewed exclusively.
After 27 years of his own line, Raf Simons, the Belgian designer who has championed youth culture since the beginning of his career, announced that his Spring 2023 collection would be the last at his namesake label. While Simons has enjoyed stints at Jil Sander (2005-2012), Dior (2012-2015), Calvin Klein (2016-2018), and now Prada, where he is co-creative director, his own line was probably the most sincere expression of his aesthetic.
“Each label that he’s been at has distinctive qualities. But, so does Raf,” says the curator Sharon Hurowitz, who has worn Simons over the years. “There’s something special about it when it’s your namesake brand.”
Simons didn't explain why he was closing the label but market turbulence likely played a role, according to the Guardian. “At a smaller or independent brand, there’s such a flexibility to be creative. But to actually source, merchandise, distribute, and make an impact, you’ll need the engine of a bigger conglomerate,” Hurowitz adds.
Other changes include Riccardo Tisci leaving Burberry after less than one year at the English house to be replaced by Daniel Lee, formerly of Bottega Veneta, and Tom Ford selling his ultra-lux label to Estée Lauder in a $2.8 billion dollar deal.
The game of musical chairs has become something of a pattern at the luxury level, but some buyers worry that the instability could hurt legacy houses in the long run.
“You have some people who have had long tenures, but it is very rare now," says the couture adviser. "Creative directors have access to historic archives, but is that enough if you’re only there for a short period of time?”
On the other hand, the shuffling allows for the elevation of promising talent to the ranks of fashion's creative aristocracy. In March, Salvatore Ferragamo announced its new leader would be acclaimed British designer Maximillian Davis. He is all but 26 but his debut collection in Milan during fashion week was already hailed a success.
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