At Coach, 90s grunge comes with a side of Disney
Sitting in a cavernous warehouse, peering through the dusty, smoky air at the rusty skeleton of a supersized (lifesized?) dinosaur, thoughts can often turn to pondering what life events have led one to be in such a surround.
But really, at this season’s New York Fashion Week, there is a sense of gratefulness to be anywhere with a roof. Something so many designers, have in spite of rain soaked days, overlooked. But I digress.
Stuart Vevers, the Yorkshireman at the helm of Coach, has been at the brand for long enough (he took up the role in 2013) to have established his own codes and pop-culture-infused design tropes - which were all in sharp effect here. Silken bomber jackets, those sort of chunky, reassuringly heavy-weight leather bombers which seem like the sort of thing Kiefer Sutherland circa 1987 might have slung over his shoulder to take in the boardwalk arcades; alongside floaty, ethereal-yet-edgy frilled prairie dresses which billow and shimmer, a little sheer, a little Edwardian, a little Laura Ingalls Wilder.
There were early Nineties Courtney Love lace-edged slip dresses, compete with kooky geometric eye make-up; black witch-y tiered skirts; patchwork coats and itchy looking Goodwill thick jumpers. Which was all very pleasant, and reassuring for anyone sold on the current vogue for chunky boot plus floaty dress plus edgy jacket combination. Relax, that look isn’t going anywhere.
But! For anyone (hi) looking for a sunny window out of this dystopian, heavy metal soundtracked, Upside Down prairie ghost land - enter Disney, which Vevers has partnered with to great, witty effect. Perhaps you hadn’t considered a jumper covered in a Dumbo motif before. Or why not The Aristocrats on your oversized white T-shirt? Or shed a tear over Bambi flickering in silhouette on your hoodie? For at the dark wonderland of Coach, all was on offer.
We must of course, not gloss over the handbags - which are ultimately the core of this brand. The Seventies flavour continued in sweet, dainty chained tiered purses; helpfully sized rounded bowling bags, and of course enough tassels hanging off jaunty hued shoulder bags to satiate even the most casual of Coachella attendees. All in all, a very enjoyable triumph.
