Clemens: Wine descriptors, part three
In our investigation of wine descriptors, we continue our plunge into wine’s weird words.
• Petrol/diesel: Associated with riesling. Aroma is not the smell you get filling your farm truck, but does suggest diesel or gasoline. It is caused by good-thing antioxidant TDN (1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene if you are a chemist geek), which forms from beta carotene and lutein as riesling ages. It is a distinctive, distinguishing marker for those identifying riesling in blind tastings. It also blows away after exposure to air.
• Burnt rubber: Associated with syrah, also with South African wines. South Africans took umbrage when an English critic used the descriptor. “We prefer that people use the term acrid rather than burnt rubber,” averred a spokesperson for Wines of South Africa. Current descriptor preferred by wineries for this nose note: “sun-dried tomatoes.”
• Tar: Associated with nebbiolo (Barolo/Barbaresco) and syrah — means aromas and flavors reminiscent of tar. Who eats or smells tar to find out? Some claim it describes a mix of meat and black pepper. Remember, smell is at least 75% of taste, so the “taste” of tar really is a slight — and slight is key — aroma of tar.
• Pencil shavings: Associated with cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot: hints of cedar or eucalyptus wood. Cigar box also associated with this nose nuance. Think of sharpening the #2 in the third grade. It is a mineral smokiness similar to graphite. Engendered either from tannins in the wine or the wine’s exposure to oak during the winemaking process, to put a fine point on it.
Tasting notes
• Benziger Family Winery Chardonnay 2022: Sonoma chard — lively acidity frames citrus, apple, and stone fruit. $14-16
• Monteabellón Tempranillo 5 Meses en Barrica, Ribera del Duero 2020: Easy-going tempranillo effort with refreshing acidity. $14-16
• Domäne Wachau Riesling Federspiel Terrassen 2021: Excellent dry riesling from fabled Austrian wine producing area. Very focused with excellent acidity and complexity. $20-25
• La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2021: Fresh, clean with attractive layers of quality fruit. Lighter version of California pinot noir style. $27
• Masciarelli Marina Cvetić Montepulciano d’Abruzzo S. Martino Rosso Riserva DOC 2019: Good complexity. Nicely evolves in the glass presenting an engaging experience. $29-38
• Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley 2021: Assertive Napa cab that combines some earthiness with elegance. $50-70
Links to reviews
www.gusclemensonwine.com/benziger-family-winery-chardonnay-2022/#more-18582
www.gusclemensonwine.com/domane-wachau-riesling-federspiel-terrassen-2021/#more-18220
www.gusclemensonwine.com/la-crema-sonoma-coast-pinot-noir-2021/#more-18557
Last round
My son told my husband he got a part in his school play and he would be playing a man who has been happily married for 25 years. My husband replied: “Maybe next time you’ll get a speaking part.” Wine time.
Email: wine@cwadv.com. Newsletter: gusclemens.substack.com. Website: gusclemensonwine.com. Facebook: Gus Clemens on Wine. Twitter: @gusclemens
This article originally appeared on Lubbock Avalanche-Journal: Clemens: Wine descriptors, part three
