Clean Clothes Campaign Turkey Calls for Stronger Potassium Permanganate Regulations
Potassium permanganate bleaching, commonly known as PP spray in the denim industry, and the harmful effects it has on worker health and the environment are the focus of a new report by Clean Clothes Campaign Turkey (CCC Turkey).
PP spray was introduced in Turkey following the 2009 ban of denim sandblasting which afflicted garment workers with silicosis. However, the report argues is it just as harmful, yet the country has no legislation limiting or regulating its use.
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Though there are various alternatives to PP spray like ozone and laser technology, many brands continues to use it to achieve the vintage-inspired washes that are in high demand by consumers.
The garment worker advocacy claims the odorless, sand-like solid chemical is the cause for face skin problems, blurred vision, respiratory issues, chest tightness, and lung inflammation, and long-term exposure to the substance can damage the liver and kidneys. The chemical’s environment impact damages sea life and results in wastewater. Over five tons of PP used worldwide daily cause severe damage to the surrounding environment due to manganese, a heavy metal that does not biodegrade, according to the report.
In the report, CCC Turkey examined 44 brands that bleach jeans and produce in Turkey—12 of which are committed to the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). However, instead of prohibiting PP spray, MRSL urges brands to take occupational health and safety measures when using it.
This results in signatories taking various approaches to PP spray in their supply chain. For example, CCC Turkey said H&M implemented a PP spray ban at the start of this year and that Diesel is using alternative chemicals. Ralph Lauren is gradually removing it from production by 2025.
In a questionnaire, Zara-owner and MRSL signatory Inditex confirmed to CCC Turkey that it uses PP spray but that periodic checks are made on its factories to examine whether sufficient safety measures are being made.
Other brands are less specific about their use of PP spray, but they call out other sustainable technologies, CCC Turkey found. Guess and Pepe Jeans—both of which are not MRSL signatories—highlight their use of Wiser Wash technology instead. However, the report says it is unclear if the technology is used in all jeans production.
CCC Turkey recommends brands to improve their supply chain transparency, including information about production locations and chemicals used in their products. The organization also calls for companies to develop and implement policies regarding chemical usage in their supply chains, including health and safety measures and environmental damage mitigation.
Moreover, CCC Turkey call for brands producing in Turkey to immediately reduce the use of PP, “understanding that environmental damage and occupational diseases develop over many years.”
