Classic Cuts and Chocolate Brown: What Menswear Buyers Want From Paris
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The momentum from Milan continued to build on strong tailoring, with the Paris collections leaving no doubt that we have left hypebeasts behind and entered into a new era of elevated elegance and impeccable cuts. Buyers are keen to snap up pieces that can be cornerstones of grown-up wardrobes, or fit effortlessly in with existing classics.
Single- or double-breasted suit jackets paired with well-cut trousers and long coats were a key silhouette, while colors were soothing and mostly monochromatic in chocolates, charcoal, khaki or cream, with touches of soft pinks or sky.
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For all the obituaries written about the suit and tie, it made a comeback, while “Grandpa-core” with cozy knits and cardigans is starting to bubble up for a softer take on classic dressing. Chocolate brown is the next key color, according to several buyers.
“There was an elegant and modern wardrobe with refined classics,” said Galeries Lafayette menswear officer and buying director Alice Feillard. “It was a season full of impeccable, sophisticated and tailored silhouettes, from classic tailoring to elevated and twisted classics,” she said.
Dries Van Noten was by far the favorite collection of the week. He wanted an “elegant look for young guys,” and hit that mark to the delight of buyers who are eager to get their hands on his coats, tailored cargos and slim-lined shoes.
Jonathan Anderson’s nearly pantsless collection for Loewe with his roomy trench coats and cable-knit cardigans was also highly coveted, while Kim Jones’ magical mirror-go-round runway, showcasing couture tailoring for men, was also a standout. At Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s masterful work on soft suits and overcoats with added embellishments was a new twist on the codes of workwear and masculinity.
Oustiside of the major houses, Auralee has been hovering just under-the-radar for a while, and made many buyers’ lists this season, with Ryota Iwai’s pairing of purple and green, while Amiri’s red carpet-inspired collection played on pinks and browns. Both were cited for their use of color.
Rick Owens’ intimate open house was cited as best format for its up close and personal presentation, while Kenzo’s show at the newly revamped Bibliothèque Nationale was beloved, if more for the venue than the collection.
There were still spectacles — see Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton rodeo — that kept the party spirit high, but buyers were drawn toward quieter presentations.
“There was an intimacy to the season with an enhanced focus on craft, construction, and couture-like detailing with many brands choosing to show their collections within their own maisons…providing a great opportunity to see the clothing up close and personal,” said Neiman Marcus senior editorial director Bruce Pask.
Buyers were blunt about their budgets. While the menswear market is growing, overall spend is slightly reduced or mostly flat, with a concentration on investing more on well-performing current brands than expanding their offerings.
Outside of the department stores, smaller boutiques were clear they are looking for more commercial pieces. “Against the backdrop of a global economic climate that is not particularly clear, the trend is toward conservatism. More than ever, designers and retailers are keen to keep turnover high,” said Le Monde de SHC owner Eric Young.
That focus on strongly selling pieces that fit into a wardrobe was key for many buyers who were looking to provide cautious customers with classic investment pieces.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner in Berlin, perhaps summed up the positioning best: “It is a time of focus and restraint, certainly not unbridled creativity and offerings…We cut almost all streetwear brands and focus on long-term partnerships, and are happy to grow with these brands.”
Here’s a look at what buyers are buzzing about. Responses have been edited.
Demir Aslanoglu, menswear buying director, Beymen Group
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, Loewe, Valentino and Amiri
Best show format: Rick Owens’ presentation of his “Porterville” collection was particularly notable for its innovative show format and concept. Hosted in his own Parisian townhouse, the show offered an intimate and immersive experience, seamlessly aligning the venue’s Brutalist aesthetic with the collection’s avant-garde style.
Top trends: Tailoring remains a central theme, with many designers showcasing a blend of classic and modernist approaches. Collections like those from Dior and Paul Smith highlighted a renewed focus on elegant, sometimes oversized tailoring, blending traditional craftsmanship with innovative cuts and detailing. Statement coats were also a standout at brands like Dries Van Noten and Valentino. The use of leather and furry pieces was particularly noticeable, employed creatively in trimming and full garments, seen in collections such as Givenchy. Cargo pants made a notable appearance, spotted in shows like Dries Van Noten. These trends collectively highlight a direction in menswear that values both the refinement of tailoring and the practicality of functional statement pieces.
Investment pieces: Dries Van Noten’s fur-trimmed aviator jackets and coats. Valentino’s luxurious, modern coats, striking for their uncluttered styles. Loewe’s leather jackets and bags. Ami’s versatile suits. Dior’s tailoring pieces, which reflected a blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern silhouettes. Head accessories, like hats. The Timberland x Louis Vuitton boot. We will certainly be focusing more on investment pieces, rather then seasonal trends. These times are difficult, and it’s time to play safe.
Budgets up or down: Our budgets are flat bottom-line, but there is a big shuffle between the performing and not-performing brands.
New talent: Burc Akyol, Louis Gabriel Nouchi and Hed Mayner were the new talents to watch.
Impressions of the week: Paris Fashion Week is always full of creativity and excitement, which makes it always worth attending. The diverse and innovative designs, cultural and artistic influences were the main elements of this PFW. It also highlighted the evolving nature of menswear and the fashion industry’s continuous push toward blending artistry, sustainability and inclusivity.
Justin Berkowitz, fashion director, men’s, Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Auralee, Louis Vuitton, Lemaire, Dries Van Noten, Valentino, Officine Générale
Best show format: It was an absolute delight to visit the Bibliothèque Nationale, which has recently undergone renovations, for Kenzo’s show.
Top trends: Texture, especially in knits (brushed wool, cashmere, alpaca and mohair) and outerwear (tweeds, brushed wools and shearling). The volume in coats and pants — both are quite full and long. Depth in overall looks has come through in layering, especially with the interaction of the two prior ideas. In a season where color and pattern have been less prevalent in the mix, layered texture and contrasting volume provide interest and comfort. Cargo pants, denim and workwear-derived jackets have continued a bit of a utilitarian theme that counteracts the formality of tailoring, and the fantasy of embellishment and craft.
Investment pieces: We’ve seen some incredible and special knits this week.
New talent: We’re huge fans of Kartik Research at Bloomingdale’s and have worked with the brand for a few seasons now already. We’re pleased to see Kartik’s debut on the official calendar, and his collection this season was truly a standout.
Reginald Christian, senior fashion manager, men’s, Saks
Favorite collections: Loewe, Dior, Valentino, Dries Van Noten, Amiri
Best show format: With a roaring orchestral arrangement composed by Max Richter, Dior Men’s winter show was nothing short of sensational. Artistic director Kim Jones brilliantly executed a crescendo of sartorial flair, craftsmanship and innovation by transporting us into the Dior universe as the circular catwalk raised up from the ground, giving us the ability to view the entire collection. Rick Owens and Michèle Lamy opened up their art-filled home to present Owens’ winter collection with a hopeful response for the future. His creativity and uniqueness in exploring design through silhouettes was intimate and beautiful.
Top trends: This season’s top trends addressed men’s growing desire for garments that can support their evolving lifestyles. Outerwear was particularly strong this season with trenches and bomber jackets leading the pack. Soft tailoring was updated in new silhouettes that offered more structure without sacrificing comfort. Minimalist dressing was prominent across the runways, addressing men’s desire for timeless style. Informal-formal was a top trend of uncomplicated and exciting takes on dressing up from evening blazers styled with T-shirts to embellishments. Lace-up dress shoes and Chelsea boots offered smart outfit upgrades. Skinny ties, beanies and novelty totes added injections to his wardrobe.
New talent: 2023 Vogue Fashion Fund finalist Angelo Urrutia presented a lively collection that combined his understanding of Parisian style with elevated Americana staples, creating a refreshing take on sportswear.
Investment piece: Dior’s couture denim chore jacket and pants with crystal embellishments on the collar and Sacai’s mint green bomber is one of the freshest takes on a closet staple.
Impressions of the week: Paris Fashion Week was a week of dressing alignment for menswear. There was a sense of balance and the pursuit of joy throughout the collections, with overall themes addressing the duality of modern dressing. The best collections presented men’s fashion with form, functionality and style in timeless hues of gray, brown, bordeaux and blue.
Laura Darmon, director of buying and business development, ENG
Favorite collections: Kiko Kostadinov, Wales Bonner, Rick Owens, Ernest W. Baker, The Row, Doublet
Top trends: Volume pieces playing with proportions and “quiet items” focusing on pattern.
Investment pieces: Knitwear and coats.
Budgets up or down: Stable, focusing on growing our existing brands.
New talent: Juntae Kim. We’ve been buying since the beginning a few seasons ago. He delivered a great collection this season. It was rich with romantic and intricate craftsmanship elements, beautifully interwoven with his signature patterns. Also, Charlie Constantinou whom we just started in China.
Impressions of the week: There was a harmonious mix of brands boldly asserting their unique styles, alongside those excelling quietly in their craft, subtly reminding us why they’ve captured our hearts.
Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion & accessories, Samaritaine Paris
Favorite collections: Dior, Wales Bonner, Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, AMI, Rick Owens, Auralee
Best show format: Kenzo at the Bibliothèque Nationale on rue Vivienne.
Top trends: The Western heritage aesthetic mixed with the workwear pieces have been present among many shows: shearling, cowboy hat, carpenter jeans, workwear jacket, fringes on shirts and coat. Tailoring is still super present with a lot of fluidity and comfort. The jupe culotte can replace the traditional pleats pant. It’s always the idea of the elevation of the day-to-day wardrobe with an emphasis on luxurious fabrics and craftsmanship. Seventies with knits, cardigan and “Grandpa core” will be also in the mood next season. Regarding color palette, brown is THE color next season [combined] with black and khaki. A touch of light pink will be important to highlight the winter wardrobe.
Investment pieces: A double-breasted cashmere coat, a black aviator shearling leather, a brown suit, a cowboy hat. For shoes, camion boots and the [collaboration between] Louis Vuitton x Timberland.
New talent: Auralee, Valette Studio, KidSuper, Songzio
Impressions of the week: Despite the freezing and rainy weather, the collections are well balanced between eye-catching trends but also a very commercial approach. Quiet luxury is also still alive but with more diversity.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner, The Corner in Berlin
Favorite collections: Dior, Loewe, Sacai, Rick Owens and Lemaire
Best show format: Dior had a wonderful setting around Rudolf Nureyev’s incredibly inspiring universe. It was poetic and strong at the same time.
Top trends: Strong English-style influence. Countryside English farmer pieces in many collections. Soft or tailored looks. And fine fabrics, of course. Easy soft luxury in silhouettes and attitudes. Tailoring, tailoring, tailoring. End of streetwear.
Investment pieces: Barbour and workwear jackets, soft leather jackets, soft tailoring and overshirts.
Budgets up or down: We cut almost all streetwear brands and focus on long-term partnerships, and are happy to grow with these brands.
New talent: We are very happy with the brands we carry. They are all very creative each season and do propose enough newness. We absolutely don’t need new brands every two seconds. Neither does our customer. It is a time of focus and restraint, certainly not unbridled creativity and offerings.
Impressions of the week: Inside or outside the shows there is a definite direction toward softness, easy tailored and confident elegance. There’s nothing sharp, nothing flashy, nothing radical. There is a more distant approach to fashion — no aggressivity, wardrobe essentials, soft luxury.
Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director, Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Sacai, Wales Bonner, Rick Owens, Lemaire, Amiri, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Kiko Kostadinov, Thom Browne, Undercover, Martine Rose
Best show format: Intimate was the name of the game — both Lemaire and Rick Owens opted for cozier shows at their headquarters. Rick Owens opened up his home to guests and showed a beautiful collection in reaction to the uncertain times we’re living in.
Top trends: Eveningwear and glamour are two of the big stories of the season, with couture-level production at Valentino and Dior, and Amiri’s foray into vibrant tuxedos channeling the spirit of Old Hollywood.
Investment pieces: Big voluminous coats are definitely worth splurging on, but also lower-profile footwear that wouldn’t look out of place with a tuxedo.
New talent: Av Vattev out of Bulgaria is one to watch, also quite excited for Song for the Mute, especially their upcoming collaborations with Adidas.
Impressions of the week: Menswear continues to embrace a more elevated and elegant approach to dressing up, but is offering up new ways to do so. If this season is any indication, it shows that the lexicon of what we think of as a “classic wardrobe” has expanded in a good way.
Raphaël Deray, buying manager, men’s luxury and designers, Printemps
Favorite collections: Homme Plissé, Junya Watanabe, Lemaire, Egon Lab and Rick Owens
Best show format: As a huge fan of the French artist Ronan Bourroullec, it is difficult for me not to [name] Homme Plissé Issey Miyake. The collection was the perfect synergy between art and fashion. As it always should be.
Top trends: Neck accessories — ties, jewelry, scarves, neck warmers. Collar details — contrasted colors and fabrics; oversized, playful shapes; double layers, asymmetry. Dark colors — black, brown, navy blue. Ethnic prints, fluid tailoring, long coats, bomber jackets, mary janes and ballerinas, and harness boots.
Budgets up or down: [This past winter] was not an easy season, but the men’s market is still growing significantly and so are our budgets.
New talent: As a buyer, you should have everything on your radar before Paris Fashion Week begins.
Impressions of the week: It was not the most interesting Paris Fashion Week in my opinion, but I am still a huge fan of what we are seeing on the runways right now, far [from] the Instagram buzz: attention to details, fabrics, timeless designs, etc. I also feel like a lot of players in the industry are being careful and are waiting to see what is going to happen over the course of 2024: Better sales performances? New creative directors in key and historical brands? I am always trying to curate something that resonates with a wide range of clients, while being driven by the idea of a timeless wardrobe, genderless and with pieces that can be worn with whatever you have in your closet.
Alice Feillard, menswear officer and buying director, Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Dior, Jonathan Anderson, Lemaire and Dries Van Noten
Best show format: Dior’s round theater with its choreography and music was one of the best sets. Rick Owens’ intimate presentation at his headquarters was the most creative and conceptual collection of the season. Ouest Paris’ morning rave party proved you just need a great music and cool kids dancing to make it right.
Top trends: There was an elegant and modern wardrobe with refined fabrics, such as luxurious cozy knits in monochrome colors and full looks: chocolate, charcoal, khaki, with soft touches of vanilla, pistachio and light pink. It was styled with a necktie, leather gloves and leather slippers. We are feeling season after season a sensual masculinity, especially through gender-fluid and embellished pieces — skirts worn over pants, shorts, fluid tops.
Investment pieces: A soft jacket matching pleated wide-leg trousers in dark brown or charcoal from Dior, Ami, Lemaire and Officine Générale. A long coat by Dries Van Noten. A leather or shearling jacket from Loewe. A zipped cashmere sweater by Meta Campania Collective. A ballet leather slipper or mule by Dior, Lemaire or Dries Van Noten. Timberland x Louis Vuitton boots. A croissant bag by Lemaire or the puzzle-fold tote by Loewe.
Budgets up or down: Up for key brands or flat.
New talent: Botter that we carry and support [for a] few seasons: both creative and highly engaged. Meta Campania Collective, an understated luxury wardrobe. Hed Mayner gym-office looks, a twist of oversized tailoring, his signature. Auralee’s first runway collection, with simplicity and beautiful colors. Aldo Maria Camillo’s fluid and sharp tailoring presented on graceful dancers.
Impressions of the week/season: Paris is by far the best fashion week, with a strong level of creativity and proposals. There is a good balance between major brands with mega shows and independent designers with more intimate but straightforward presentations. Logos are definitely out, making space for a new formality, a wardrobe with a focus on product and quality. It is good to see more diversity of models on the catwalks in terms of age, nationality or size.
Laura Larbalestier, group fashion director, Harvey Nichols
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Loewe
Best show format: Rick Owens, and the intimacy of showing in his home. Also, Loewe’s video montages and a collection of grunge-meets-high school geek.
Top trends: More about a wardrobe than ever before. This season is about style not trend.
Investment pieces: Statement knits, Loewe skater shoe, Amiri beanie, Dries tailoring.
Budgets up or down: Depending on strength of the collection, increasing spend on building existing business.
Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion, Harrods
Favorite Collections: Valentino, Dior, Louis Vuitton
Top trends: Continuing from what we saw in Milan, tailoring dominated the season bringing a dressed-up, elevated offering to the forefront of style, regardless of brand. Paul Smith, a pioneer for sartorial style and modern elegance, led on this in the most authentic way, and we saw Valentino and Dior deliver on this with an answer to occasion dressing for menswear clients. This shift to a more sartorial style was seen too through shirting and simplistic knitwear.
Layers on layers! It was a trend we started to see come through in Milan last week. There was also a tale of two extremes when approaching outerwear this season, either cropped, boxy styles that deliver on an answer to a more casual, daytime approach or opposing this, super long, soft fluid cashmere, or wool overcoats and oversized peacoats with sartorial detailing.
For color, this week we saw a rich palette, full of chocolate browns, warm neutrals, blacks and grays, with pops of bold, brave colors. Chocolate brown, however, is a key color for us next season; from Ami and Paul Smith to Dior and Loewe, this color is a perfect tone no matter the style or silhouette.
Investment pieces: A total look suit: from which brand entirely depends on the individual. It’s important to find a modern suit whose style, cut shape and fabric suits them, and works for their life — for inspiration look towards Dior, Valentino, Lemaire and Dries Van Noten.
Impressions of the week: It was a beautiful season overall, and as with Milan, there was a total sense of coherence and purpose across the brands, all unveiling collections that deliver on a more considered and clean way of dressing. Nothing signals the complete move of fashion and luxury away from streetwear more than the dominance of not just tailoring, but chocolate brown tailoring from so many brands.
Franck Nauerz, director of men’s fashion, Le Bon Marché
Favorite collections: Dior
Best show format: The Louis Vuitton collection, curated by Pharrell Williams, showcased a reimagined Wild West spirit, bringing cowboys and Native Americans together in an epic fashion show.
Top trends: The season’s trends continue in the vein of past seasons, showcasing a “quiet luxury” and elegant casual style in ready-to-wear, as well as in footwear and accessories. Streetwear now seems distant, with brands shifting towards more elegant and leisurely-oriented looks.
Investment pieces: The standout pieces of the season are knitwear: beautiful mohair knits, often with daring color combinations, cashmere is still also a great trend; long and oversized coats; the slightly loose pleated trousers and loafers elegantly complete the silhouette; the shirt remaining a key element of the men’s wardrobe.
New talent: S.S. Daley has been on a growing trajectory since winning the LVMH Prize in 2022. This season, the brand continues its ascent by asserting a silhouette that is even more poetic, while maintaining the signature touch of English elegance.
Impressions of the week: This season follows the continuity of the previous seasons, where a soft tailoring silhouette persists and strengthens, aligning with the codes of Le Bon Marché, where elegance remains our pinnacle specialty.
Bruce Pask, senior editorial director, Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Dior, Amiri, Valentino, KidSuper
Best show format: The historic triple tiered Salle Ovale at the Bibliothèque National de France was spectacular to see at night, with its cast-iron columns and glass ceiling so beautifully lit for the Kenzo show. Kim Jones’ rotating, elevating concentric circular runways made for an appropriately breathtaking setting for a dramatic collection. The intimate salon-style shows seen peppered through the week and most notable at Rick Owens gave a nice, particularly Parisian mood to presentations.
Top trends: Tailoring in all of its forms and as envisioned so creatively by each designer was the top story of the week. Slouchy, drop-shouldered overcoats at Lemaire, Homme Plissé and Dries Van Noten continued the season’s oversized outerwear statement from Milan. Glamorous eveningwear was in abundance, with embellished, couture-like detailing seen at Amiri, Givenchy and Dior.
There has been a grounded earthiness to the color palette, with rich dark neutrals nicely represented in Officine Générale and Lemaire. The chunkier-soled creeper style shoes from Amiri and Valentino were a nice counterpoint to the more delicate, slim-lined shoes at Dior and Dries Van Noten that were also prevalent. Bags are much more commodious, whether totes or top handles, allowing for capacity and mobility.
Investment pieces: Valentino’s full-cut, flat-front, cropped pant shape was just about perfect, a Dior asymmetrically buttoned suit, a KidSuper x Canada Goose collab parka, a slouchy-shouldered oversized coat.
Impressions of the week: The sun was shining in Paris and sprits were high as we moved through a week of inspiring menswear that showed a real sophistication and originality. It was an elevated sartorial season with tailoring providing a foundation for most collections, and designers interpreting suiting in their very signature ways, from KidSuper’s patchworked portraits and Comme des Garçons Homme Plus’ cinched waists to Dior’s single-button double-breasted suits and Valentino’s soft-shouldered relaxed proportions.
Luke Raymond, senior menswear lead, Farfetch
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Lemaire, Auralee, with an honorable mention for Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
Best show format: Not a show format as such, but Jonathan Anderson nailed it with Loewe’s internet boyfriend front row and accompanying Richard Hawkins flexing, flaunting artworks. Amiri’s bombastic homage to Hollywood and Dior’s in-the-round tribute to Nureyev also come to mind.
Top trends: The tie, “corporate” suiting, business casual blazers + sweatpants, the long lean overcoat, the elevated grey hoodie, cargo pants (again), soft low profile slip-on shoes, gradient textures and, one to watch, a slimmer silhouette is starting to come through.
Investment pieces: Outerwear from The Row, Valentino’s pumped-up hoodies, DB tailoring and beaded shirts, Loewe’s sweatpants, a beaded “Pearly King/Queen” CDGHP suit, Dries’ tailored cargos and slim, lean overcoats, something sequined from Amiri, one of everything from Lemaire, Auralee’s leather bomber, shirt, tie, zip knit and tailored pants.
New talent: Rier and Winnie, [both] focused and concise collections with strong points of view, well executed and ripe for wearing now.
Impressions of the week: Perhaps unsurprisingly given the current macro-economic and socio-political climate, this was a season of relatively low risk where the overriding impact was one of tweaks and twists on the classics — see business suits, the return of the tie and multiple interpretations of the overcoat. There will be lots of great clothes to buy when FW24 hits stores but no great leaps for menswear this time around.
Yumi Shin, chief merchandising officer, Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Dior, Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Amiri
Best show format: Rick Owens invited guests into his home, making it the best venue concept and the most personal. By stripping down the spectacle, the clothes, which were otherworldly in their exploration of scale and materiality, made a major impact.
Top trends: It was interesting to see designers build on the permissiveness of personality we’ve seen in recent seasons to explore freedom of expression and challenge the norms of masculinity. From skirts to skirts over pants to the knit tights at Loewe, the designers are rewriting the rules. We also saw a lot of attention paid to layering — a gesture that perhaps reflects our need for comfort in difficult times.
Investment pieces: Some of the must-have items include Loewe’s new Puzzle bag edition featuring collaged artwork by Richard Hawkins, the playful plimsoll sneakers, as well as Dries Van Noten’s long leather gloves.
Impressions of the week: In Paris, the strongest statements were the ones that challenged the viewer to look deeper, implying that intimate gestures and a quiet hand create connection.
Daniel Todd, buying director, Mr Porter
Favorite collections: Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Wales Bonner
Best show format: Rick Owens opening up his Parisian home for the occasion gave attendees an intimate feel.
Top trends: Statement knitwear from patterned styles to cable-knit jumpers and cardigans alongside louche tailoring, long overcoats and military inspired cargo trousers.
Investment pieces: The top pick for me would definitely be an oversized topcoat — we saw some incredible, statement styles from many designers. On the other hand, I can’t stop thinking about Loewe’s leather aviator jacket.
New talent: Kartik Research — it was their first presentation in Paris, and it did not disappoint. The brand’s core values shone through, supporting Indian craftsmanship alongside its ongoing commitment to sustainability.
Impressions of the week/season: We’re seeing an increased focus on cut and construction from designers with attention placed on details and luxurious or textured fabrics.
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Dior, Amiri
Best show format: It was an honor to be welcomed into Rick Owens’ home. The setting, with Michele [Lamy] welcoming everyone at the door, made it feel very warm and intimate. The Wales Bonner collection was also a standout runway show with the surprise performance by Yasiin Bey.
Top trends: We are seeing a resurgence of formal workwear from the runways with utilitarian cargo pants and jackets, paired with classic suit separates. The tie has quickly become one of the must-have accessories of the season. We saw this best from Sacai, Loewe, Junya Watanabe, and Dries Van Noten. While workwear takes an elevated twist, classic, sartorial tailoring becomes more elevated with a dandy influence to the clothing. Valentino, Amiri, Dior, Balmain showcased this best. The elongated and enveloping silhouette is best seen from Lemaire, Rick Owens, and Homme Plissé — all showed floor-dusting coats and garments that are perfect for layering.
Investment pieces: The skirt-trouser from Homme Plissé; the denim squeeze bag from Loewe; Dior men’s ballerina flats; Rick Owens coated shirt-jacket; Amiri embellished cropped jacket; Dries Van Noten textured knits; Valentino padded blazer; Sacai puffer vest; Givenchy knitted twin-set.
Impressions of the week: There was a sophisticated attitude to the men’s collections this season with elegance, artisanal craftsmanship, and community at the forefront. With everything we saw this week, we’re optimistic to bring the spirit of fashion week back home to our customers.
Thom Scherdel, senior menswear buying manager, Browns
Favorite collections: Dior, Amiri, Rick Owens
Best show format: Rick Owens once again delivered a standout moment, this time in his Parisian home.
Top trends: Although we’re seeing the evolution of quiet luxury, it’s clear that rich, monochromatic looks are here to stay another season. We also noticed the reintroduction of traditionally sartorial fabrics, such as pinstripes, across more relaxed pieces.
Investment pieces: That are so many standout pieces, especially across outerwear from Lemaire’s shearling aviator to Rick Owens’ biker jacket, and more.
Budgets up or down: We are keeping things level to ensure we can concentrate on our existing partners.
New talent: Paris is a great preview into what’s to come for the season, from the evolution of trends to the development and championing of new talent, something that is at the heart and soul of everything we do. We have our eyes on a few new brands so will be keen to see how they evolve in the coming weeks.
Impressions of the week: What a week; once again Paris did not disappoint. The energy was amazing, and it was great to see everyone out and about despite the cold!
Eric Young, owner, Le Monde de SHC
Favorite collections: Courrèges
Best show format: There were no shows in Paris this week that particularly impressed me in terms of format. But LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s model lineup was precise and chic, making the collection look even more glamorous.
Investment pieces: Denim-inspired pieces, leather jackets, well-tailored and stylized coats.
Budgets up or down: Flat.
New talent: Meta Campanina. I am impressed by their use of luxury fabrics and craftsmanship in their collection while keeping the feeling fresh.
Impressions of the week: Luxury conglomerates have introduced a variety of items priced at a higher level to allow their super-important customers to increase their purchases. Will the new strategy work? It will take some time to see.
Will Zhang, founder, SND
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten
Best show format: Lemaire’s show held at the brand’s headquarters performed excellently. The choice of venue ensured that the decor, style, and music harmonized perfectly with the brand’s essence. The models’ performance remained effortlessly fashionable, as always.
Top trends: Denim items continue to maintain their robust popularity, with workwear jackets and cargo pants emerging as vital pieces for the fall ’24 season. In terms of colors, earthy tones such as browns and grays have made extensive appearances across various brands.
Investment pieces: The final look from JW Anderson left an indelible mark on me. The oversized outerwear and spacious cargo pants exude not only drama but also a profound sense of fashion.
Budgets up or down: As the Chinese retail market has slowed down, we have prudently reduced some of our budgets.
New talent: Over the past two seasons, I’ve been paying close attention to the brand Auralee. The fall 2024 season boasts a highly unique color palette, particularly the pairing of purple and green, which is remarkably appealing. Their expertise in tailoring, fabrics, silhouettes and knitwork is exceptional, making them a standout emerging brand.
Impressions of the week: Cold weather, bustling showrooms, buyers from around the world, captivating fashion shows — everything brings me back to the essence of Paris.
– With contributions from Samantha Conti, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang.
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