Circularity—What Comes First?
The phrase “Which came first, the chicken or the egg?” expresses a paradoxical situation where it is difficult to determine the cause and effect or the origin of something. It is an ancient question that has been pondered by philosophers, scientists, and theologians for centuries.
The origin of the saying can be traced back to ancient Greece. The earliest known mention of this question dates back to the writings of the Greek philosopher Aristotle (384–322 BC). In his work “Physics,” Aristotle discussed the problem of how birds reproduce, specifically using the example of chickens. He argued that the bird must have evolved from an egg, and the egg must have come from a bird, but the question of which came first was left unanswered.
Since then, the saying has been used in various contexts and has appeared in different forms in literature, folklore, and philosophical discussions throughout history. It has become a metaphorical expression used to illustrate the concept of a never-ending cycle or a dilemma without a clear resolution.
There is not a day that goes by that I don’t hear this phrase in conversations about circularity. It is commonly stated in conversations around the emerging textile-to-textile market, which is just as puzzling as where do you start to draw the circle?
The Issues
As stated through the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, this is the “Decade of Change.” As we all know, the fashion industry has a significant impact on the environment, and it is essential for us to address these challenges head-on. By exploring the perspectives of brands, consumers, and the supply chain, we can gain a comprehensive understanding of the obstacles that inhibit the progress of textile recycling in the fashion industry. What are the changes that need to happen and where do we even start?
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Let’s begin by examining the challenges faced by fashion brands. One of the main obstacles brands encounter is the lack of infrastructure for textile recycling. While the demand for sustainable fashion is growing, the necessary systems to facilitate the recycling process are still in the early stages of development. Brands require efficient collection systems, sorting facilities, and recycling technologies to make textile recycling a practical and viable option. Without these resources, recycling efforts remain limited and inefficient, ultimately withholding progress.
To address this challenge, it is crucial for brands to collaborate with recycling organizations, governments, and other stakeholders to develop and invest in the necessary infrastructure. Governments can play a pivotal role by providing incentives and establishing regulations that encourage textile recycling. Additionally, partnerships between brands and recycling facilities can help create a comprehensive network that enables efficient collection, sorting, and processing of textile waste.
Financial constraints also present a significant challenge for fashion brands in embracing textile-to-textile recycling. Recycling initiatives often require substantial investments in research and development, as well as the implementation of new technologies. These costs can be prohibitive for many brands, particularly smaller ones with limited resources. Without financial support and incentives, it becomes challenging for brands to adopt and scale up their recycling initiatives.
To overcome this challenge, it is crucial for governments and investors to recognize the importance of sustainable fashion and provide financial support to brands seeking to implement textile recycling practices. This can be done through grants, subsidies, or tax incentives aimed at encouraging environmentally friendly practices. Additionally, brands can explore innovative business models, such as circular economy approaches, to create new revenue streams that support the hierarchy of waste.
Another critical challenge in textile recycling is the need for consumer education and awareness. Many consumers are still unaware of the environmental impact of fashion and the importance of recycling textiles. It is debatable who takes responsibility to educate consumers, global citizens, about the benefits of recycling and the role they can play in reducing textile waste. By raising awareness and promoting more sustainable practices, brands can empower more informed choices and contribute to a circular economy.
To address this challenge, brands can incorporate educational campaigns into their marketing strategies. These campaigns can highlight the environmental impact of textile waste and the benefits of recycling. Collaboration between brands, influencers, and environmental organizations can amplify these messages and reach a wider audience. Brands can also provide clear information about the recyclability and sustainability of their products, enabling consumers to make conscious decisions while shopping, as highlighted in Rachel Arthur’s “The Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook for UNEP and UN Climage Change.”
Now, let’s shift our focus to the challenges faced by the supply chain in textile recycling. One significant hurdle is the complexity of textile composition. Fabrics are often made from a blend of different materials, such as cotton, viscose, polyester, and elastane. These blended textiles pose challenges when it comes to recycling, as separating and processing the different components can be technologically demanding and economically unviable.
To overcome this challenge, the supply chain must invest in research and development to develop innovative techniques for efficiently separating and recycling blended textiles. Collaboration between brands, recyclers, and research institutions can accelerate progress in this area. Additionally, industry-wide standards and guidelines can support a faster transition towards designing into circularity.
Brands and sourcing executives are looking for the answers in the perfect materials to satisfy quality, value, accessibility, transparency, traceability, all within their existing value chains. We can do it all. We just can’t do it all at once. We have to look at the progress that we are making for the circular industry. They are small steps forward, maybe one step back, but in the end it will be a huge leap to transition the textile industry.
Scalable Solution
Entering the paradox is Renewcell. We operate under the principles of the waste hierarchy where the goal is to keep garments in circulation as long as possible. There is a reason why we only source end-of-life clothing and post-industrial waste, or PIW, as the feedstock for the first industrial scale facility for textile-to-textile recycling of cellulose, beyond mechanical recycling. Renewcell is a technology company that was founded in January 2012 by a group of cellulose researchers from KTH Royal Institute of Technology and a small investment company. The company has developed a new, patented, recycling process for turning cotton fabric waste and other cellulosic textiles (such as viscose) into viscose-grade dissolving pulp, branded as Circulose.
Circulose is a next-gen material made of 100 percent recycled textile waste that is recyclable and is replacing virgin materials such as wood pulp and cotton for clothing for leading apparel brands including H&M, Levi’s, Calvin Klein, Ganni, Tommy Hilfiger, Zara, Cos, Triarchy, and many others.
In late 2022, Renewcell opened an industrial scale mill in Sundsvall, Sweden, aptly named Renewcell 1, that runs entirely on renewable energy and was awarded RCS 100 certification in June 2023. The facility is currently in ramp-up mode, producing 60,000 metric tons of Circulose by the end of 2023.
As the first industrial scale operation, Renewcell recently unveiled the Circulose Supplier Network to build up the availability of its pulp in the market and accelerate a circular solution for the textile industry. Renewcell is seeking additional, committed yarn spinners and textile mills to join.
Your Call to Action
On Oct. 8 we celebrate World Circular Textiles Day (WCTD), which was started four years ago by a group of women in Great Britian including Cindi Rhoades, Gwen Cunningham, Becky Earley, and Kate Goldsworthy. WCTD highlights the efforts of a growing community of companies in the Knowledge Hub, a platform that captures the industry’s advancements with a shared vision for 2050.
World Circular Textile Day is an important annual event that raises awareness about the need for circularity in the textile and fashion industry. It promotes sustainable practices, innovation, and collaboration, aiming to transform the industry from a linear model to a circular one. By educating consumers, showcasing innovations, and fostering collaboration, the day contributes to creating a more sustainable and responsible textile sector that respects both people and the planet.
The annual livestream event will be Oct. 5 and showcases the latest developments in circular textile technologies, materials, and business models. It serves as a catalyst for research and development, pushing for advancements in areas such as textile recycling, renewable fibers, and digital solutions that enable transparency and traceability in supply chains. It also fosters collaboration among different stakeholders. By bringing together governments, businesses, and civil society organizations, it encourages partnerships and collective action towards a more sustainable textile industry. Collaboration is essential for driving systemic change, as it requires coordinated efforts to address complex challenges such as waste management, chemical usage, and worker rights.
Another important resource for action is Accelerating Circularity, a nonprofit which catalyzes new circular supply chains and business models to turn used textiles into mainstream raw materials. Find their resource center with a playbook or join one of their working groups.
Then you just might discover the answer to what comes first in the circle of textile-to-textile recycling.
About the author:
As an advocate for innovation and circularity in the textile and apparel industry, Tricia joined Renewcell November 2022 to accelerate the commercial development of CIRCULOSE®, making fashion circular. With a vast global network, as well as experience in brand building, storytelling, and business development, she is an invaluable partner to close the loop and optimize the benefits of CIRCULOSE®.
Tricia holds a bachelor’s degree in Fashion Merchandising from The Fashion Institute of Technology, as well as certificates in Digital Marketing and Strategy from Cornell University and MIT. She is a board member of Accelerating Circularity and Transformers Foundation, as well as an advisory member of Fashion Impact Fund.
About Transformers Foundation:
Transformers Foundation is the unified voice representing the denim industry and its ideas for positive change. It was founded to provide a thus-far missing platform to the jeans and denim supply chain and a central point of contact for consumers, brands, NGOs, and media who want to learn more about ethics and sustainable innovation in the industry.
For further information, please contact Kim van der Weerd at kim@transformersfoundation.org or Ani Wells at communications@transformersfoundation.org.
