Christian Siriano's 15th Anniversary Show Was a Corseted, Ballet-Coded Extravaganza

Andrea Bossi

September 8, 2023 at 9:07 PM·5 min read

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Christian Siriano knows how to bring drama to the runway, and he went big for his 15th anniversary on Friday, presenting a maximalist, ballet-coded extravaganza for Spring 2024 at New York City's ritzy Pierre hotel.

The collection features Edgar Degas-inspired details, which Siriano calls fitting, given the runway's location at a French hotel. When considering what to present for this momentous anniversary, he didn't go back into his archives — instead, he retreated to the very beginning of his creative journey.

"When did I fall in love with clothes and fantasy? That was me and my sister being backstage — we were both ballet dancers — being there in the costumes, in the hair and makeup," the designer told Fashionista backstage. "Seeing these black, restrictive clothes transform into these sugar plum fairies on stage was when I fell in love with fantasy, clothes and movement. That's what I wanted to do, but then make it modern and cool for people to wear and feel glamorous and special."

His Spring 2024 color palette relies mostly on pink, black, gold, white and nudes (save for one blue dress), and he explores the tension between severe and soft silhouettes and textures throughout. One top may feature a tulle overlay, while another gown is covered in embroidery or encased in laser-cut petals. Body-hugging pieces contrast relaxed fits, while glittery fabrics shine brighter than matte ones. Siriano also maintains a fixation on florals: Where Audrey Hepburn inspired last season's rosettes, Impressionist florals embellish organza for spring.

The collection is simply fabulous and fun. The ballet references may not always be subtle — multiple corsets throughout the collection feature criss-cross lacing that's an overt callback to the ties that sit atop pointe shoes — but they're often juxtaposed with clashing elements, like tuxedo-style suiting. (That lacing was mimicked, too, with the pink-ribbon-adorned hair masterminded by Lacy Redway.) And of course, there are a handful of tutu-like skirts sprinkled throughout; a half-tuxedo, half-ballgown look is more surprising, even stirring commotion in the star-studded front row.

"I stopped making clothes that everybody thought they wanted me to do. I just started making things that I love to do, and I'm glad that a lot of people that want to wear them caught on," said Siriano, reflecting on his journey as a designer. "Even if you don't have everybody on your side — I mean, I feel great when Janet Jackson calls and wants five looks."

Speaking of celebrities, the front row was unmissable: Janet Jackson, Laverne Cox, Alicia Silverstone, Avril Lavigne and Kesha sat front and center. Toward the end of the presentation, Sia made a surprise appearance and performed in a voluminous gown and bleach-blonde bob. She belted "Chandelier" as models strutted by, with Coco Rocha closing the show.

Keep scrolling to see every look from Christian Siriano's Spring 2024 collection.