Chopova Lowena RTW Spring 2023

Tianwei Zhang
·2 min read

Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena made a splash with the London Fashion Week runway debut of their namesake fashion label Chopova Lowena.

Everything was done in the way they wanted. The show was street-casted, and many of the models are collaborators and friends of the house, who knew how to carry these colorful, folkloric pleated skirts and put their personal spins on them to make the presentation come to life.

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The duo said post-show that the outfits were made based on each one of their measurements from months ago, because “that was the perfect way to do it for us.”

The show felt like a celebration for the brand community, who have been supporting the label since the duo graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2017.

When Mahoro Seward, fashion features editor at i-D, who has been almost exclusively wearing Chopova Lowena for the past few years walked down the runway, the crowd boiled, with his colleagues and friends cheering and applauding.

For those who haven’t heard of the brand, Lowena and Chopova offered a great introduction with their spring 2023 collection. Titled “Rose is a rose is a rose is a rose,” the classic Gertrude Stein quote, the collection is a celebration of the duo’s Bulgarian roots.

“It’s the traditional references of Bulgarian traditional folklore and other Bulgarian things that come from my side, like the denim are inspired by how hard it was for my parents to own jeans, as it was illegal during the Communist era,” Lowena said.

They offered a variety of their signature pleated kilts, where the fabric is attached to a wide leather belt via carabiners, as well as dresses, leggings, shirts, vests, and arm warmers in colorful patterns inspired by their multicultural upbringings. They have also added new jewelry categories and tailored pieces this season.

For the past five years, the duo has managed to turn these “tacky” folkloric dresses into some of the street style must-haves, selling them to over 60 stockists worldwide. It will be curious to see how the brand will evolve, and how big its community can grow in the next five years.

Launch Gallery: Chopova Lowena RTW Spring 2023

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