Carine Roitfeld on Her New Book, Friendship with Karl Lagerfeld and Why She Thinks Kim Kardashian Is 'an American Pioneer'

Carine Roitfeld is one of the few figures that people both in and out of the fashion industry recognize; with her unmistakable thick brows and perfectly smudged eyeliner, she's every bit the emblematic editor. Her work is just as iconic: From the meme-ified images of Kim Kardashian in pilgrim-like ensembles to those of Zendaya in caked-up, abstract makeup (to name two recent examples), Roitfeld's legacy is one of the strongest in fashion publishing, asserting her place as a commanding talent in the space.

Over the course of her career, from Vogue France to CR Fashion Book, she's created unforgettable images that sit at the intersections of celebrity, pop culture, music, film and, of course, fashion. Now, she's curated a selection of these for a new book, "Fantasies". Below, Roitfeld tells Fashionista all about the project, her creative process, favorite on-set moments and more.

In the foreword to "Fantasies," you say that Karl Lagerfeld told you that the most precious thing in fashion might be to experience "surprise". How have you implemented that into your work since then?

Incorporating 'surprise' has always been essential in my work. Since the beginning of CR Fashion Book, our mission has been to create a realm of fantasy by assembling teams that challenge conventional fashion norms. While surprising the world with a great cover star certainly generates viewers' attention, it's the transformative power of fashion within that image that keeps their attention.

You were close friends and worked very closely with Lagerfeld. Do you have a favorite project you worked on together?

Working with Karl was always a unique experience. Among our many collaborations, the Chanel campaigns will always hold a special place in my heart. Each project was memorable in its own right, but some of my favorites have been our collaboration on 'The Little Black Jacket,' the Chanel Resort 2017 show in Cuba and of course, our CR Fashion Book Issue Three cover of Kim Kardashian shot by Karl with creative direction by Riccardo Tisci.

Speaking of Kim Kardashian, you put her on the cover of CR Fashion Book in 2013, when she wasn't generally well-received by the fashion industry — and you've you said most brands wouldn't lend you clothes for the story. Beyond Riccardo Tisci's introduction, what compelled you to place Kardashian on that cover, and what role do you think that played in her now-cemented position as a fashion industry titan?

Beyond Riccardo's introduction, I saw in Kim a cultural phenomenon and a strong, self-made woman. Featuring her was a statement about breaking barriers in the fashion industry. This move certainly played a role in redefining her image within the fashion sphere.

The CR13 shoot, which features Kardashian as "The Pioneer Woman," is one of the publication's most memorable. What's the story behind the shoot? What inspired you to lens her with a modest approach?

To me, Kim is an American pioneer. The idea was to show a different, understated side of Kim that was different from the red-carpet glamour we're used to seeing her in. The theme was about showcasing strength, resilience and modesty — attributes people often overlook when considering Kim.

"Fantasies" is your third book. How do your previous works influence this one? What made now the right time for your first release since 2011?

Each book I've worked on has been a learning experience. With "Fantasies," the knowledge from my past publications allowed for a more fluid creative process in curating a snapshot of the fantasies from CR Fashion Book over the past decade.

The world and the fashion industry have changed so much since "Irreverent" [in 2011]. "Fantasies" represents a culmination of a decade of change, evolution and growth in my personal and professional journey.

In the book, there's an image of a model smiling ear-to-ear, and you note that her agency hadn't mentioned she had braces. How often does a shoot have a spontaneous element that changes the original idea?

Spontaneity happens quite often on set. Sometimes, it's those unscripted moments that create the most impactful images, in my opinion. An unexpected element, like the model's braces, for example, can transform the narrative in an authentic and beautiful way, and often further enhances a story.

You name the 1982 film character E.T. as your "forever inspiration," and even modeled a CR cover after the movie poster. In what ways has this film resonated with you?

E.T. is about connection, understanding and the unexpected relationships that define us. That's much like the world of fashion. The finger-touch scene embodies vulnerability and connection — essential themes in my work.

Are there other films or other art forms that have inspired you on a similar level?

Cinema, art and music have always played pivotal roles in shaping my aesthetic. For instance, films by directors like Fellini have influenced my perception of beauty and narrative. I have also always loved Old Hollywood stars; Audrey Hepburn is one of my personal icons.

What made you choose the image of Kim Kardashian as the cover for "Fantasies"?

The cover should encapsulate the essence of the book while remaining intriguing. It's a balance between familiarity and curiosity. This CR Fashion Book Issue Three cover was a pivotal moment for me, Kim and the fashion industry. I think it set a standard for what we create at CR.

Is there anything specific you’d like to see evolve or change within the fashion industry?

I'd like to see the industry continue to embrace diversity and sustainability and challenge traditional standards of beauty. We're moving in the right direction but there's so much more to go!

How do you continue to find elements that to excite and inspire you in fashion?

By staying curious, traveling, meeting new people and keeping an open mind. The world is full of endless inspiration; one just needs to remain receptive to it.

"Fantasies: Carine Roitfeld Fashion Book" by Carine Roitfeld is available for purchase here.

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