How to Care for Coily Hair, According to Hairstylists
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Figuring out how to style and maintain your hair starts with understanding your hair type. The widely-recognized hair typing system is divided into four categories—types 1, 2, 3, and 4. And the latter—which consists of 4A, 4B, and 4C—is used to describe coily hair. Tightly textured hair has unique characteristics (ranging from shape to porosity), influencing how you should care for it daily. Ahead, we asked hairstylists to explain everything you need to know about coily hair.
Meet Our Expert
Sharley Viola is the lead educator at Curlsmith.
Yetty Bames is a hairstylist at Sharon Dorram Color at Sally Hershberger.
Ursula Stephen is a celebrity hairstylist and Eco Style ambassador.
What Is Coily Hair?
Coily hair is the tightest of all hair types. As mentioned, the type 4 category has three subcategories (4A, 4B, and 4C hair). "4A hair is characterized by tight, well-defined coils with a small diameter while 4B hair has Z-shaped strands that are less defined than 4A hair due to them being tightly packed together," Viola says. 4C hair has the tightest coil pattern, with its zig-zags less defined than 4A and 4B hair.
In addition to being dense, coily hair is fragile due to its proneness to dryness. "The natural sebum produced at the scalp isn't able to travel down the strands, which is why moisture retention is a challenge for coily hair," Viola explains. "When coily hair is fragile, it is susceptible to breakage." Viola says those with coily hair may also experience shrinkage, noting that type 4 coils are susceptible to up to 75% shrinkage.
How to Wash Coily Hair
Our experts recommend washing coily hair weekly or bi-weekly, depending on its moisture levels and the amount of build-up. Stephens recommends gently detangling the hair before washing it with a wide-tooth comb and using a leave-in conditioner, as it isn't advised to detangle dry coils. "Using a leave-in conditioner after your conditioner can assist with further detangling," Viola adds. "I'd also recommend using a wide-tooth comb and working in sections for seamless detangling and even product distribution."
Once you're ready to wash, Bames says, "A clarifying shampoo should first be used for a deep clean followed by a moisture-rich shampoo to rebalance the hair. Then, use a moisture-rich conditioner to aid with the detangling process." After cleansing and conditioning, Stephens says to apply your desired styling products (like a curl cream, leave-in conditioner, or gel) and squeeze any excess water out with a microfiber towel.
How to Maintain Coily Hair
Having a proper hair care routine is the key to maintaining the health of coily hair. First and foremost, it's important to get frequent trims. "While coily hair is strong, it can break if the wrong styling tool is used or the hair isn't trimmed regularly," Bames says. "Not only do regular trims keep hair looking fresh, but they also make it easier to style." Our experts agree that trims should be done every four to eight weeks.
Since coily hair needs moisture to thrive, it's best to incorporate products specifically focused on hydration while washing and styling your hair. One product Viola recommends adding to your weekly routine is a deep conditioning treatment like the Curlsmith Double Cream Deep Quencher ($29) or the Hydro Creme Soothing Mask ($29). "Deep conditioning penetrates the cuticle to replenish and nourish your strands while delivering weightless moisture to revitalize the hair," she says. Bames recommends applying a hot oil treatment and steaming your hair to promote growth and health. "Steaming will stimulate the shaft while hot oil treatments keep the scalp moisturized and the hair soft to assist in detangling and frizziness," she adds.
Another simple way to protect your delicate coils is to wear a satin scarf or bonnet to bed. You can also sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase. Regular cotton scarves or pillowcases can absorb the oils from your hair (leading to dryness) and create friction (causing tangles and frizz).
How to Style Coily Hair
Coily hair can be styled in infinite ways. Bames recommends twist-outs, flat twists, comb twists, and wash-and-go's as particularly great styling options. "When exploring styling options for this hair type, be mindful that coily styles may create scalp tension, which can lead to breakage, so ensure any style you choose isn't done too tightly," she adds.
Wash-and-Gos: As Bames pointed out, wash-and-gos are a style option. If you plan to leave your coils as they are, applying products strategically can help you achieve the best results. The LOC Method is a popular technique as it helps lock in moisture and define coils. It involves applying a liquid or leave-in product, followed by an oil, and then a cream to ensure your hair is adequately moisturized.
Twist-Outs and Braid-Outs: Bames' go-to coily hair look is a two-strand twist. "The style can be done while wet and worn as-is or taken out and fluffed out over several days to become a nice curly 'fro," she says. "A bonus is that the style is tension-free and can be styled with various products." Since coily hair is prone to shrinkage, our experts say styles that stretch the hair like twist-outs and braid-outs can help with length retention.
Braids: Stephens says she favors braided looks for type 4 hair because they are easy to style and manipulate. "They also provide full protection, and I love that I can treat and moisturize my hair without compromising the style," she adds. Knotless braids, cornrows, or French curl braids are a few options to consider.
Heat Styles: Of course, you can also blow dry, straighten, or curl your coils. But, it's important not to use too much heat, as Stephen says this can compromise the curl pattern. "Using a heat protection spray and minimizing the intensity of the heat as it is applied to the hair is essential for hair health," she adds.
Final Takeaway
From 4A to 4C, coily hair is completely unique. There isn't a one-size-fits-all approach to caring for tight coils, but there are many tips and tricks that can help you manage and style them. Since coily hair is prone to dryness and frizz, it's important to adhere to a hydration-focused wash day routine and apply styling products strategically (i.e., the LOC Method). Since coily hair can become fragile, our experts also suggest regular trims, avoiding tight hairstyles, and wearing a coil-friendly scarf or bonnet to bed. Following these steps can help ensure your coils remain healthy and hydrated.
Up Next: 30 Hairstyles for Curly Hair That Are Simple and Chic
Read the original article on Byrdie.
