Calvin Klein Is Moving Into the Future Without a Runway Collection—But Likely More Underwear-Clad Kardashians

Yesterday, unconfirmed rumors that Calvin Klein was officially ceasing their luxury ready-to-wear business swirled around the digital space. As of today more substantial details have emerged, as well as confirmation of the news from inside the company. Layoffs have occurred in both the New York and Milan offices; the intention is to completely overhaul the brand and reinvent with a more mass-focused, customer-first approach. There will no longer be a runway collection, 205W39NYC or otherwise, and the company is also closing its Calvin Klein by Appointment business. Calvin Klein is actively searching for a creative director who will lead the label in an overarching role, one that is focused on product design and merchandising (read: probably more underwear- and denim-clad celebrities). This is the real crux of the news: At a time when retail in the U.S. is apparently struggling, Calvin Klein, one of the country’s most iconic businesses, has opted to focus on the middle market, where the money is and has been for the brand for the last few years since it was acquired by apparel company PVH.

From a fashion perspective, it’s the end of an era—there’s been more than one of those this season. Since its birth by the man himself, Calvin Klein’s ready-to-wear has come to represent a slice of American lifestyle defined by chic, effortless minimalism. It gave us Brooke Shields in tight jeans and Carolyn Bessette in black slip skirts and tees. Francisco Costa built on that original identity, and more recently, Raf Simons came in and put his own conceptual touch on the runway pieces and the branding. It’s sad to think that there will be no more luxury-focused iterations of what Klein first established in 1968. But, that being said, he began it all with jeans, and he didn’t start showing his clothes on a runway until 1994. Fashion must evolve with the times. In a way, Calvin Klein is taking the formula its founder established in the ’90s and applying it to its business in a digital-first, influencer-driven fashion era. This kind of metamorphosis from runway to reality may wind up being the right move.