Bulgari is Bringing Back the Serpenti (Although It Never Really Went Away)
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Long before Bulgari made it a house signature in the 1940s, the serpent had been an alluring and seductive symbol for centuries. The figure can be traced back to the Hellenistic period; it loomed especially large in ancient Greek and Roman mythology. Then there was Elizabeth Taylor, who gave the motif’s appeal a jolt when she wore a coiled gold snake armband in 1963’s Cleopatra. Its magnetism hasn’t waned since.
Bulgari has continually revisited the theme in glamorous jewels, watches, and accessories. Recently, the maison tapped Mary Katrantzou to design a capsule collection of handbags (and a fragrance) featuring the iconic snake, which the Greek fashion designer did with her signature use of exuberant color and pattern. “The Serpenti holds powerful meaning to me personally as a symbol of rebirth and transformation, and that is so relevant at this moment,” says Katrantzou, whose unforgettable 2019 couture show at the Temple of Poseidon in Athens featured archival high jewelry pieces on loan from Bulgari. “More than ever, luxury pieces will need to tell a story and connect with us in a way that feels personal.”
The centerpiece of the new collection is an oversize snake head minaudière that was inspired by a 1968 harlequin timepiece—a master class in Bulgari craftsmanship, each individual scale hand-painted in enamel and the clasp a forked tongue. The leather handbags feature a fully articulated snake top handle that is as tactile as a coiled Serpenti necklace, while another style is embellished with a mosaic of embroidered butterflies. Instilling even more meaning in the project: A portion of bag sales will go to the Naked Heart Foundation.
This story appears in the Summer 2021 issue of Town & Country.
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