Brognano RTW Spring 2020

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Why not go out with wet hair in a terrycloth turban a la Lana Turner in the 1946 film, “The Postman Always Rings Twice?”

Holiday living inspired “Who Is On Next?” 2016 prize winner Nicola Brognano for spring, from the plethora of vacation-ready, crisp tropical-print camp shirts and skirts worn unbuttoned over shorts, to the cheeky, plush terrycloth hotel robe and slippers embroidered with the “Brognano” monogram. (Milan designers are crazy for terrycloth this season, from the Peter Pilotto floral jacquard robe to the bubblegum pink Fendi monogram tote and quilted grandma-in-Boca psychedelic Seventies bed jackets.)

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Dipping his toe into the swim-leisure trend, Brognano used a white bikini top as a layering piece under a pool-blue camp shirt sparkling with crystal raindrop embroidery that, when paired with a sketched palm-print skirt unbuttoned over shorts and white knotted slides, would take a woman from pool to patio party.

Oversize shirting (sliding seductively off one shoulder, conjuring Hollywood starlets of yore) and clear sequin-dusted tropical shirtdresses also had a polished ease, while oversize tailoring (blazers, trucker jackets and Bermuda shorts) in pastel picnic plaids, some of them dip-dyed and worn with silver chain belts, had streetwise attitude.

For evening, or day, or the morning-after — it really doesn’t much matter when on holiday — a suntanned tulle, ruched-bodice gown with princess skirt spoke to the designer’s training with Giambattista Valli. But the lavender tulle tiered dress over crisp white pants and chain belt felt emblematic of a new vision of relaxed elegance he is cultivating all on his own.

Launch Gallery: Brognano RTW Spring 2020

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