Brock Collection RTW Spring 2020

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The Cotillion Room at the Pierre Hotel is a lofty setting for a runway show, but this season’s Brock collection was decidedly less baroque and more down to earth than some past efforts.

Their strategy, the designers shared, was to show a concise offering of “what we really think she will use and wear,” explained Laura Vassar, noting a focus on what have been commercial successes for the L.A. brand over the last couple of years, including shirt dresses, tie-front peplum jackets that can work with jeans, and dramatic coats with billowy trains that can transition from day to night.

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But there was also newness. “This season, we started with the fabrics, printing and testing on organzas and gazars,” added Kristopher Brock. “We wanted to explore new silhouettes, high-low hemlines and volumes — and we’d never done bows or sack dresses before.”

It resulted in several standouts, including a blue floral empire dress with puff sleeves and trailing hem over white wide-leg pants; a pink floral silk gazar bed jacket over jeans; a special-looking white shirtdress tied up in a dramatic back bow; and a deep burgundy sack dress with crystal rope straps.

Stripping back their trademark corsetry, focusing more on daywear and offering some more forgiving silhouettes were smart moves, ones that could help them tap into the new romantic trend that has square-neck blouses and puff-sleeve everyday dresses by contemporary brands like Dôen and Reformation selling like hotcakes.

Launch Gallery: Brock RTW Spring 2020

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