British Style, Faux Fur, Full Skirts: What Buyers Want for Fall From London
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LONDON — Burberry’s outerwear, JW Anderson’s knit sets and Roksanda’s vivid palette grabbed retailers’ attention during London Fashion Week, which wrapped up Monday evening.
Buyers were engaged with the city’s designers, who were all willingly growing up and targeting a more mature consumer.
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Many retailers said they are eager to pick up Erdem’s elegant collection based on the American Greek soprano Maria Callas; the oversize tweed coat from JW Anderson, and Daniel Lee’s Burberry trenchcoats, which were reworked in leathers, knits and shearling.
Here, buyers discuss some of the week’s highlights.
Simon Longland, director of buying – fashion at Harrods
Favorite collection: Erdem’s collection was particularly strong, and inspiration of Maria Callas was felt throughout. Alongside the always beautiful dress options, knitwear was a highlight, as well as the head-to-toe tweed-effect looks, and the feather trim sets — a full wardrobe, all occasion collection that is sure to be popular as soon as it hits the shop floor.
The strength of Simone Rocha’s collection, paired with an incredibly impressive setting resulted in a knockout, from faux fur trim to sheer skirts and capes it was exciting to see her play with new shapes — something we haven’t seen from her in a few seasons, particularly with the emergence of the hourglass silhouette, which amplifies the ultra-feminine trend we are seeing throughout the season so far.
To close the week, Daniel Lee’s third show for Burberry continued the outdoor themes he has been exploring from the beginning that we are seeing in store currently and delivered a collection bursting with items to covet. A color palette that was utterly Burberry of soft neutrals, earthy greens, blacks and pops of red. The outerwear in general took the lead throughout the collection, from cropped bombers to waxed parkas, leather trenches and soft shearling — a layer for everyone. Kilts and kilt-inspired detailing were also seen throughout boasting thigh-high splits and neat buckle details.
Best show format: There was a sense of drama, occasion and scale this weekend as we saw brands take to museums, galleries and churches for their collection unveilings. Standouts were Roksanda at the Tate Britain, Dunhill’s ultra-intimate setting at the National Portrait Gallery and, of course, Simone Rocha, who took over London’s longest standing church, St. Bartholomew the Great.
Top trends: Faux fur was seen throughout the weekend, from Burberry and Emilia Wickstead’s use for full-piece and trim details in coats and outerwear, to Simone Rocha’s detailing.
Unsurprisingly, knitwear was high on the agenda for many designers. At JW Anderson, the collection was formed and based in knits in many forms and fits, from hourglass silhouettes to corset detailing and knitted sets.
Must-have item(s): 16 Arlington’s maxiskirt in a silver tinsel fabrication was a showstopper. Erdem’s knitwear also really stood out this week, exceptional craft and skill were on display and meant the knitted scarf sets were cemented in our minds. Lastly, Burberry’s outerwear will be a must-have next season — whether it’s a classic trench, cropped bomber or a shearling jacket.
Impressions of the week: London continues to showcase and demonstrate its ability to exhibit exciting new talents as well as nurture and grow established brands and elevated collections. It’s an exciting part of the calendar every season.
Libby Page, market director at Net-a-porter
Favorite collection: Erdem was a Net-a-porter collection highlight, he continued the elegance trend that we saw start to emerge during New York Fashion Week and we loved what Daniel Lee did for Burberry and Britishness this season.
Best show format: I loved the Molly Goddard show at the beautiful Cecil Sharp house framed by incredible murals on the walls — and of course, not forgetting Joanna Lumley’s performance for CompletedWorks, which was unique and a great way to start the week.
Top trends: Color wise, oxblood is set to be the hue of the fall 2024 season as seen at Erdem and Molly Goddard. We also loved the preppy trend that we saw at Emilia Wickstead and JW Anderson with their granny-chic approach to the trend.
Must-have pieces: The pointelle knit sets at JW Anderson were our must-haves from the weekend.
New talent: We loved seeing one of our Net-a-porter Vanguard designers, Tolu Coker, showing. We loved the energy of the show, and the nod to Ghanaian street sellers.
Heather Gramston, senior head of buying at Browns
Favorite collection: 16Arlington, JW Anderson and Simone Rocha.
Best show format: Molly Goddard
Top trends: A shift away from quiet luxury and a move toward sexy dressing alongside chunky winter staples.
Must-have pieces: JW Anderson’s incredible stripe knits and shearling lined boots as well as the leather metallic cargo pants from 16Arlington.
Budgets up or down: Our budgets are level — we remain cautious despite the incredibly strong shows.
New talent: As always, London is the hub of young and emerging designers. We have our eyes on several newcomers and are still in the process of finalizing our orders.
Impressions of the week: As always, London Fashion Week did not disappoint. Once again, we saw a strong weekend of shows with a good balance of new and established designers.
Katie Rowland, womenswear and kidswear fashion buying director at Mytheresa
Favorite collection: Simone Rocha remains a perennial favorite. I adored the seamless transition from the designer’s haute couture showcase in Paris last month for Jean Paul Gaultier. The exquisite corsetry, sheer fabrics, delicate lace and intricate tie detailing were truly captivating.
Best show format: Harris Reed delivered an epic opening. The garments were breathtakingly beautiful, leaving one yearning to don them.
Top trends: Red hues dominated, with burgundy standing out prominently. Luxurious faux fur, shearling and feathers added an extravagant yet glamorous touch. A modern reinterpretation of eveningwear featured an array of stunning cocktail dresses exuding glamour, with Erdem stealing the spotlight. Statement coats made a strong presence. Timeless black remained a staple.
Must-have item(s): Any corsetry or sheer lace designs from Simone Rocha are a must. For brides-to-be, look no further than Simone Rocha’s wedding ensemble from look 17. Additionally, the Emilia Wickstead coat from look 12 or the Roksanda gilet from look nine are ultimate faux fur pieces to covet.
Budgets up or down: We can confirm our plans for sales growth.
New talent: Yanya Cheng, Joyce Bao and Dhruv Bandil showcased their distinct aesthetics at the Central Saint Martins graduates’ show, each promising a unique direction. It will be fascinating to witness their development.
Impressions of the week: London maintained its eclectic fashion scene with inspiring street style. The event continued to nurture emerging talent, from the Fashion East incubator to rising stars like Conner Ives and Ahluwalia, alongside established brands such as Erdem and Roksanda. The JW Anderson show, known for its individuality and charm, didn’t disappoint. Bright colors, from Roksanda’s vivid palette to Molly Goddard’s uplifting hues, injected a sense of color therapy, especially amidst the rainy weather.
Laura Larbalestier, fashion director at Harvey Nichols
Best show format: Simone Rocha’s show at St. Bartholomew the Great, built in 1123, was the perfect backdrop to the story of her collection.
Top trends: The standout collections this season were about specific inspirations: Maria Callas at Erdem, monsters and Madonna at 16Arlington, Queen Victoria mourning wear at Simone Rocha and JW Anderson’s exploration of tropes and types. This approach feels quintessentially British.
Must-have item(s): Simon Rocha’s balaclava, X-large theater gloves from Erdem and trench top from JW Anderson.
Budgets up or down: Up, our British brands are some of our very top performers and part of the DNA of Harvey Nichols.
New talent: Marques’ Almeida’s return to London was also a chance to see their unexpected talent for designing adorable kid’s clothes, which felt like the most natural product extension I have seen in a long time.
Impressions of the week: Best London Fashion Week in the past few years, collections felt authentic and not driven by fads and trends.
Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus
Favorite collection: Simone Rocha, just off her couture collaboration for Jean Paul Gaultier, chose St. Bartholomew’s Church as the perfect backdrop for the final chapter of a creative trilogy. One of the main themes of the collection was corsetry used to create sculpted silhouettes, which put her tailoring skills on full display. The sheer, beautifully embellished dresses and skirts were a soft counterpoint to the boning and tailoring.
Erdem wowed us again with an assortment of glamorous color, texture and volume. From showstopping feather coats to jewel-trimmed evening pajamas and layered knits, each piece felt timeless and covetable. The finale was made even more special with a performance by soprano Nadine Benjamin.
Best show format: Both Dilara Findikoglu and Simone Rocha showed in beautiful old churches, creating a high drama, intense environment for their collections. It was wonderful to see two female designers at the top of their craft who have created hyper-engaged communities of fans. Their shows were a testament to their rich storytelling and compelling viewpoints.
Top trends: We were very happy to see some color washed over the London runways: Burberry, Molly Goddard, Erdem and JW Anderson showcased rich shades of garnet, burgundy and chartreuse. Sheer experimentation in tulle, chiffon and knit was particularly compelling at Simone Rocha, 16Arlington and Emilia Wickstead. Overall, feathers and fur added texture and dimension while burgundy continues to pop as the key color of the season.
Must-have item(s): A Burberry coat is a must have, outerwear has always been a pillar of this brand and Daniel Lee solidified that with this collection. There was no shortage of statement outerwear from the city to the slopes, there is something desirable for every occasion. Specific standouts include the ivory long haired shearling, a plaid toggle coat and long leather trench with shearling detail.
New talent: It’s impossible to come to the London shows and not feel energized and inspired by the emerging talent that is being nurtured in the city. The energy in the room at Conner Ives is a testament to the broad scope of support he has while he continues to build his brand and LVMH Prize finalist Aaron Esh’s intimate show at Alexander McQueen’s Sarabande Foundation was the perfect environment for his sleek tailoring.
Impressions of the week: It was energizing to see so much color on the runways in London. While black was still quite prevalent, we know our clients respond well to colorful options all year round. The British designers certainly leaned into bright colors and prints at Roksanda, Molly Goddard and Erdem.
Rickie De Sole, women’s fashion director at Nordstrom
Favorite collections: JW Anderson, Erdem, Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard and Burberry.
Best show format: Simone Rocha at St. Bartholomew the Great church was an impactful backdrop that set the stage for a moody collection. Gothic architecture, scent of frankincense and a weaving maze-like series of wood chairs served as the runway for Simone Rocha’s trifecta. It was an emotive setting for a collection that included mourning-inspired dress, intricate corsetry and dark, folkloric details.
Top trends: Fuzzy textures were everywhere. Tactile shearling, airy feathers and looped yarns took center stage from head to toe.
Lingerie and innerwear at Simone Rocha and Knwls with lace-up corset details and Erdem’s visible bras and slip skirts layered under coats revealed a sultry slant to the collections.
Outerwear was a strong focus with remixed trenchcoats, hearty duffles, faux furs, a glamorous satin opera coat at Emilia Wickstead, and one very oversize tweed coat from JW Anderson. There’s nothing more English than a trenchcoat and Burberry led the way in covetable styles with modern details.
From oversize macro knits at JW Anderson, to squishy, frothy silhouettes at Molly Goddard, bulbous satin bubble pieces at Simone Rocha, and the full skirts at Erdem and Burberry — clothes are taking up space.
Must-have item(s): The JW Anderson corner bag updated with rope cording handles and oversize knot. The Burberry show opener funnel-neck trench worn by Agyness Deyn.
New talent: Off the runway, we got a close-up look at the latest from Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard. The young duo’s innovation, second-nature sustainability practices and off-the-wall creativity are impressive.
Impressions of the week: This week felt lively and welcoming. There’s a strong sense of community and support and a joyous surprise of new talent, innovative design and traditional craft to discover.
Bosse Myhr, director of menswear and womenswear at Selfridges
Favorite collection: Simone Rocha showed a collection that was beautiful, emotional and incredibly dramatic. It included a really developed menswear part, which we are sure our customers love. JW Anderson brilliantly brought together easy-to-wear separates with a uniquely textured fabric catalogue that made for one of the best of the London collections.
Best show format: Di Petsa presentation, which was part runway and part art performance, was very moving and the collection included some stunning dresses that appeared part sculpture and part clothing. The way it was brought to life by the models made for a London show highlight.
Burberry’s show in the East End of London in Victoria Park was a perfectly executed show that had it all. The venue had a large black tent, benches that were draped on top with extra large cushions.
Srvc’s presentation using double decker London buses was another highlight and made for a very innovative fashion vantage point, a welcome change to a typical classic front row.
Top trends: Elaborate outerwear and coats as seen at Burberry, evening and party wear with extra large gowns standing out as highlights at the Roksanda show and short dresses at David Koma.
Sheer fabrics and metal hardware accessories found their way into almost every show.
Must-have item(s): Chet Lo showed a beautiful collection and we are very happy to see the collection develop into a full wardrobe of items that bear the signature spikes.
New talent: Simon Holloway at Dunhill was a great first show that captured a quintessential great British aesthetic that goes so very well with the heritage of the brand.
Impressions of the week: Discovering new talents is very much part of London Fashion Week, from the Central Saint Martins show, Fashion East and all of the designers taking part for BFC New Gen cemented London as the home of fashion’s hottest talents: Paolo Carzana, Aaron Esh and Di Petsa, to name just a few.
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew
Favorite collection: Erdem’s romantic and layered collection was beautifully presented with the backdrop of the British Museum. It was practical glamour with the ‘50s swing coat as a must-have from the collections.
Simone Rocha’s celebration of the female body after presenting her guest couture collection with Jean Paul Gaultier was a standout for us this season so far. The corsetry details as seen in her couture collection juxtaposed with her signature silhouettes were great to see interpreted for the ready-to-wear collection.
Daniel Lee’s third collection for Burberry emphasized the importance of the trench, which was reworked in leathers, knits and shearling. The casting was incredible, featuring iconic, multigenerational faces of the house.
Best show format: Burberry took us to East London, which has quickly become the epicenter for design, creativity and culture.
Top trends: There was an ethereal spirit this season with sheer, transparency and delicate fabrications, draped with hand-embroidery and other details of craftsmanship. We continue to see the “Saltburn” effect as a source of inspiration with varsity details and unapologetic distortions to the traditional uniform. Overall, there was a pragmatic approach to the season with designers twisting their ideas of everyday wear — this was demonstrated best at JW Anderson.
Must-have item(s): Simone Rocha’s crocs and nylon bomber; JW Anderson utilitarian top; Erdem swing coats; Emilia Wickstead’s embroidered skirts; a Burberry trench in canvas with shearling trim and a checked umbrella is also a must.
Budgets up or down: We always come to London to explore new brands and remain on the forefront of what’s up and coming in the world of design and fashion. Our London brand list has grown quite a bit over the past couple seasons and we continue to be inspired by what we see here.
Impressions of the week: It was a cultural melting pot this season in London, where we saw the intersection of Hollywood and fashion collide stronger than ever with the BFC celebrating 40 years and the BAFTAs taking place the same weekend.
The design talent here in London, with many still emerging, has quickly created cult status with many of the budding fashion enthusiasts. Brands like Dilara Findikoglu, Conor Ives, 16Arlington and Chet Lo have all showcased buzzworthy collections that have started to cement their own within the London Fashion Week calendar.
Marissa Galante Frank, fashion director at Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collection: Emilia Wickstead was a beautiful mix of modern glamour and tailoring. David Koma’s collection was fun, sexy and exuded confidence and strength. Burberry showed up this season with a reimagined check, British charm epitomized with real world appeal.
Top trends: Chocolate brown and bordeaux continue to be key colors for the season, cinched waists, kitten heels, sheerness and shearling.
Must-have pieces: Burberry’s take on oversize fringe in scarves and sweaters.
New talent: Demellier London is the new contemporary handbag brand to watch. Their aesthetic is elevated and refined, which is exactly what is on our customer’s mind right now.
Impressions of the week: Fall 2024 trends align so beautifully with classic British style, making London Fashion Week even more desirable this season.
Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear at Matches
Favorite collection: Erdem in the British Museum under the Parthenon statues and the tribute to Maria Callas was wonderful. The collection was a pure luxury work of art.
Best show format: Burberry in Victoria Park; Simone Rocha in St. Bartholomew the Great, and the Raey café by Edit at 5 Carlos Place.
Top trends: Strong prints and rich textures from feathers and faux fur trims to tassels as seen at Simone Rocha, Emilia Wickstead, JW Anderson, 16Arlington, Erdem and Burberry.
Must-have item(s): The occasion coats at Emilia Wickstead and Erdem — they are the perfect investment pieces and can be worn in a relaxed way with denim or dressed up for the evening. Shearling outerwear at Burberry and the Kikka bag at 16Arlington.
New talent: Paolo Carzana is an incredible talent; I loved the show.
Impressions of the week: The richness in textures and move to more special emotive pieces was a nice antidote to the clean wardrobing aesthetic we have seen over the past few seasons.
Thibaud Guyonnet, creative director and head of buying at Voo Store
Favorite collection: I am always a big Simone Rocha fan. I loved the drama, probably one of the few shows where I always get chills and a small tear [in my eye].
Best show format: Di Petsa took me on a fun trip this season, it was intense, wet, emotional and mythical.
Top trends: It was definitely craftsmanship.
Must-have item(s): Not related to London Fashion Week, but I just bought my very first pair of — very — tight Wranglers jeans and have never felt so sexy.
Budgets up or down: Budgets are 20 to 30 percent down, it seems to be a general direction for most wholesalers. The system is about to crash, we are all very careful.
New talent: Luke Derrick, I will be keeping an eye on that guy.
Impressions of the week: Good vibes, talented people but no money to spend.
Marc Rofsky, director of buying for ready-to-wear at Moda Operandi
Favorite collection: JW Anderson struck a very British chord, filled with the turn-it-on-its-head genius that has become his signature. Beyond the granny wig hats, retro underwear and floral ribbon skirts there were some strong utility pieces like belted trench blouses, knits and slouchy tailored trousers for every day.
Erdem was, true to form, as thoughtful as it was stunning. He continues to deliver on drama without compromising a sense of elegance. Highlights were the range of printed cocktail dresses — especially the printed fringe and statement opera coats.
16Arlington evolved to a darker and slightly haunted place with flashes of silver and skin against white and black. The white dress with a sheer long-sleeve bodice and full pleated skirt stood out.
Simone Rocha was another darkly beautiful show with sheer veils, re-imagined boning, corsetry and touches of faux fur.
Top trends: Overall a general moody, sophisticated sensibility continued from New York Fashion Week. Everyday glamour, lots of black, touches of sheer, but in London it came with a bit more exuberance by means of feathers and crystal embroideries.
In terms of color, oxblood continues as the shade for the season, seen at Emilia Wickstead and Roksanda.
Must-have Pieces: Strong utility pieces at JW Anderson. The sheer white gown with a full pleated waistline at 16Arlington was a standout, along with great color blocking also seen at Roksanda.
Impressions of the week: London felt very London — in the best way: we saw lots of fresh ideas that were applied with an admirable sense of fearlessness, as well as a fascination with finding beauty or intrigue where you least expect it. It was also great to see promising collections from emerging brands, with designers incorporating their unique heritage and identities through print, pattern, and color.
Larissa Stange, womenswear and soft accessories buying manager at Liberty
Favorite collection: It’s difficult to choose just one favorite as each collection was unique in its own right. The Maria Callas-inspired Erdem show captivated me with its plethora of beautiful silhouettes and the interplay of textures, all underscored by an emotional resonance. Additionally, JW Anderson’s collection stood out for its less commercial yet playfully delightful aesthetic. Roksanda’s architectural exploration of color and silhouette this season felt particularly new and invigorating.
Best show format: Erdem’s show, once again hosted at the British Museum, felt like a perfect fit for the brand. The addition of a live opera performance further immersed guests into the essence of the collection. Similarly, Huishan Zhang’s show at London’s Banqueting House, a stunning hidden gem, offered a memorable setting.
Top trends: Faux fur and textured outerwear made frequent appearances across the runway, often serving as extravagant statement pieces that anchored the entire look. Warm, earthy tones dominated the color palette, with shades of red continuing to make a strong presence. Micro-trends included draped eveningwear and ’50s-inspired hourglass silhouettes.
Must-have item(s): Erdem’s feather coat was a standout piece, perfect for those special occasions.
Budgets up or down: While we’re unable to disclose specific details, our business with key London designers remains robust, with year-over-year growth, as evidenced by our recent launch of Huishan Zhang.
New talent: This season, our focus leaned toward more established designers whose collections exuded novelty, charm, and unexpected elements.
Impressions of the week: London Fashion Week often carries a theatrical ambiance, and while this season felt somewhat subdued, it was rich with poetic references and nostalgia, creating a uniquely enchanting atmosphere.
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