Biologique Recherche's Iconic P50 Is a Facial In a Bottle, Here's Why

Fact checked by Anna HarrisReviewed by Julia A. Siegel, MD

As far as cult-classic skincare products go, Biologique Recherche's Lotion P50 is at the top of the list. Lauded by celebrities such as Alessandra Ambrosio, Bella Hadid, and Nicole Richie, P50 has earned its A+ reputation for its ability to erase dark spots, balance complexions, and shrink the appearance of pores by tenfold. In short, it's a dream come true.

The French skincare brand launched the first version of Lotion P50 in 1970 with the goal of creating an exfoliating product that wouldn't throw off the skin's natural pH levels. It was an instant hit and has continued to reign decade after decade. The name comes from a combination of two things: One being the "P" for "peeling action," which is what the skin does when it sheds dead skin cells as a result o the exfoliation, and two being "50" which refers to the approximate number of days needed to see the full results of the Biologique Recherche product.

Curious to see if P50 Lotion lives up to the hype, I decided to put it to the test. The off-white plastic bottle boasts purple accents and a computerized font that looks straight out of the early ’90s, and even though its smell is aggressive (to put it lightly), it can compete with modern innovations any day. Below, learn about the pros and cons of the Biologique Recherche icon, read about my experience, and hear what three skin experts have to say about the product.

Meet the Experts

• Brooke Jeffy, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of BTWN skincare.

• Deven Hopp is a skincare expert and the brand director at Versed skincare.

• Philippe Allouche is a clinical doctor and the Research & Creative Director at Biologique Recherche.

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50

Best for: Normal to oily skin

Uses: Exfoliates, hydrates, and balances pH levels

Star rating: 4.8/5

Potential allergens: None

Active ingredients: Lactic acid, niacinamide, salicylic acid, and phytic acid

Byrdie Clean?: Yes

Price: $30 for 1.7oz to $106 for 8.5 oz

About the brand: Biologique Recherche is an artisanal French skincare company, founded in the 1970s by Yvan and Josette Allouche.

Pros

Let's start with all the great things inside this iconic formula and the benefits it offers the skin.

• It promises to balance your skin's pH.

• The hydroxy acids in its formula gently exfoliate without causing irritation.

• The lactic and phytic acids tone and brighten the complexion.

Phytic Acid

Phytic acid is a gentle alpha-hydroxy acid. It is typically derived from grains, legumes, and rice. It can help to neutralize free radical damage in the skin, clear out and shrink the appearance of pores, and brighten pigmentation.

Cons

There's no such thing as a perfect product, and as such, there will always be some sort of trade-off. Here's what the downsides of P50 are:

• The scent kind of smells like expired milk. Some even liken it to onions– either way, it's not great.

• It's not readily available in stores due to its popularity.

• Despite its gentle acids, it can sting upon application.

• It's not suitable for people with sensitive skin types.

The Bottom Line:

Even though Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 smells like a weird salad dressing (yet another scent descriptor– see what we mean about it being weird?), there's no denying that it delivers visible results. It promises to gently and effectively exfoliate, regulate oil production, and balance your skin's pH level. As such, it's well worth the type and its cult-classic status.

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 ($109)

SHOP

About My Skin

To say that my skin and I have had a tumultuous relationship is putting it lightly. The best way to describe my skin is combination/oily. During my teenage years, I dealt with acne, and my early 20s introduced super oily skin. I'm also a bit prone to random breakouts, not to mention, that getting my oily T-zone and my large nose pores under control is one of my biggest struggles. Right now, my main issues are dull skin tone, random bits of texture, and my supreme enemy: adult acne.

The Scent

Thanks to ingredients like onion extract, horseradish, and vinegar; it smells like a mix between garbage and yogurt that’s been left out for too long. Or maybe a very pungent salad dressing. The point is, the scent definitely leaves a lot to be desired. But thankfully it doesn't linger, so you don't have to worry about your face smelling like an onion all day.

The Feel

Lotion P50 has a watery, lightweight texture that absorbs quickly into the skin. The instructions say you can apply with your hands or a cotton pad (here are some we like); I chose to pat it into my skin like an essence because 1) I don’t like wasting product, and 2) a part of me wanted to see if I would experience the redness and tingling others boast so much about. Spoiler: I didn’t. Other than inhaling a strong vinegary scent, I did not feel the flush or burn on my skin like I was secretly hoping I would. I checked with Deven Hopp, Brand Director at Versed, who had used the product before. “If I use it after I’ve exfoliated, I do feel a slight sting, a feeling I actually kind of love,” she affirmed. “You really feel like it’s working. After, my skin can look a little pink or rather fresh.” I was somewhat appeased knowing that the tingling can occur if your skin is out of whack and can feel the acidity of the solution, so perhaps my skin is just incredibly balanced.

Ingredients

But let’s talk about what’s actually in the skin-tingling, vinaigrette-smelling formula. In order to understand the product, it’s important to understand the founders' approach to skincare. “The epidermis is everything,” Phillipe Allouche, a clinical doctor and the Research & Creative Director at Biologique Recherche, tells me at the Ciel Spa in the SLS Hotel in Los Angeles, where I have just received a signature Biologique Recherche facial. “The epidermis is a platform for information—filtering, buffering, directing information from outside to inside and inside to outside. And it’s our last fortress against free radicals, so it has to be strong—it has to be protecting us.”

"The epidermis is a platform for information—filtering, buffering, directing information from outside to inside and inside to outside. And it’s our last fortress against free radicals, so it has to be strong—it has to be protecting us."

Allouche says it’s important for the ecosystem of your skin—which includes the pH and lipid levels—to be healthy, even with the naturally occurring bacteria flourishing as a function of protection, just like probiotics in your gut. "pH balance is key to a healthy skin barrier that works properly to protect us and skin that looks its best," furthers dermatologist, Brooke Jeffy, MD. Furthermore, she explains that the skin normally has a slightly acidic pH. "If pH gets too high, your skin may become dry, irritated, inflamed, and sensitive; if it gets too low you may experience redness and irritation," she adds.

So, the idea is that if you have a balanced, flourishing epidermis, ingredients can penetrate and affect what’s going on beneath the surface; otherwise, they may not be as effective, no matter how “active” they are.

This was the mindset that spurred the creation of P50 and its reiterations, which include exfoliating ingredients like lactic acid and salicylic acid and promises to balance your skin’s pH, regulate oil production, brighten dark spots, even skin texture, and help with acne.

The Results

I used the P50 consistently for a few weeks, religiously patting it in after cleansing and sometimes following with the Placenta Crème, which looks and smells like the P50 in moisturizer form (aka sour-smelling and unpleasant) and was recommended to me by the esthetician.

After a few weeks, I do think my skin looks and feels more balanced. I’m usually very oily but found that my forehead was less shiny during my midday blotting check. Also, when I slacked and forgot to use it for a few days in a row, I could’ve sworn I saw new blackheads creep around my nose. My pores (sadly) looked the same size, but overall, my skin felt brighter, clearer, and cleaner, if that makes sense. A weird part of me actually likes the smell now. Call it conditioning, but I find myself almost craving the product on certain nights; my skincare routine just doesn’t feel complete without it. At least I can rest assured that my skin is reaping the benefits of my addictive habits.

Buying Lotion P50

Lotion P50 is a bit tricky to get a hold of—it's not available in stores or major retailers. You can only purchase from select retailers like ShopRescueSpa, Vicki Morav, and Aida Bicaj. The price ranges from $32 for a travel sized bottle, to $109 for a large, 8.5 oz bottle. Alternatively, you can Google search Lotion P50 and the name of your city to see if any spas in your area sell it.

Alongside the standard Lotion P50 (which the brand recommends for normal to oily skin), there are also three other versions: P50V, which is vitamin-enriched for more mature skin types; P50W, the milder version for sensitive skin; and P50 PIGM 400, which is less acidic and specially targeted to lighten hyperpigmentation.

The Value

Lotion P50 is available in three different sizes: 1.7 oz., 5.1 oz., and 8.5 oz. The largest size is pricey, but it provides the best value at price per ounce. One large bottle can last up to six months, so it definitely ends up being worth it in the long term.

Similar Products

If Lotion P50's scent is just not for you, there are other, less smelly alternatives. Although they may not give you the same exact results, these formulas have a similar premise to the cult favorite P50 toner.

• Moon Juice Acid Potion: Priced at $42 dollars, Moon Juice's Acid Potion is a slightly more affordable option to Lotion P50. It's formulated with lactic, glycolic, and salicylic acid that are meant to work together to resurface and balance normal to oily skin.

• Youth to the People Kombucha + 11% AHA Exfoliation Power Toner: Like Lotion P50, this product also contains probiotic ingredients like kombucha meant to strengthen your skin's natural microbiome. At $38, a blend of glycolic and lactic acid promise to deliver gentle exfoliation.

Our Verdict

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 is a gem of a product, even if the scent leaves a lot to be desired. It's hard to dismiss the quick results and noticeably glowing skin that come with just a few weeks of use– not to mention the noticeable difference in skin with the discontinuance of use. If you have super sensitive skin, it may not be the product for you, but there are actually several different versions of P50 (P50, P50W, P50 PIGM 400, P50 1970, and P50V) for varying intensities of exfoliation that may better fit your skin's needs. Because if this, it may be beneficial to visit a spa that offers Biologique Recherche services so that an esthetician familiar with the formulas can help find the one that's right for you.

Read the original article on Byrdie.