The Biggest Jewelry Trends of the 2024 Oscars

There was no Lady Gaga in the historic Tiffany diamond moment at last night’s 2024 Oscars, or an Eva Mendes in turquoise vintage Van Cleef, but there were still strong jewelry choices evident, and clear trends emerged strongly and quickly, maybe even ones you can try at home? Because life is a red carpet isn’t it? And every one is a star. Here are some ways to wear your jewelry like one.

Disclaimer: In this report on jewelry trends at the 2024 Academy Awards I’m not going to include “men in diamond brooches.” This has, quite wonderfully, become the norm, which pleases me to no end. I would like however to manifest a trend and note Colman Domingo’s David Yurman brooch in the center of his bow tie. Let’s continue to make that happen.

I watched from the very beginning of the red carpet to the very end of the ceremony. Here is what I saw.

The Strong and Simple Type

The first person I saw on the red carpet was Sandra Hüller, the star of Anatomy of a Fall (I think she did it, by the way, but that’s another thread) and The Zone of Interest. People commented on the classic simplicity of her black Schiaparelli gown. I noticed the equally classic diamond Cartier necklace. It was a strong and simple cluster of stones from the Reflections de Cartier collection—no other adornments, no other colors or materials. She was followed soon after by Eva Longoria in a Bucherer asymmetrical diamond collar (and another black dress) with a sharp geometry and crisp lines. And then came Gabrielle Union in the Tiffany High Jewelry diamond and aqua piece—equally pure in its design and architecture. Throughout the night there were others—Greta Lee in the Tiffany diamond earrings, Jodie Foster in the Kwiat 8-carat sapphires designed by creative director Rebecca Selva, Emma Stone in the diamond and yellow sapphire Louis Vuitton High Jewelry Francesca Amfitheatrof necklace—that chose strong and singular pieces. There were no grand flourishes. The stones, the settings, the design, and brilliant engineering were the point here. It felt clean and sculptural and powerful.

The Vintage Rebel

I have said this before: I’ve stopped talking about stars and their jewelry contracts because as someone once said, “This is the business we have chosen.” And this is the way this business works now. And as long as there remains jewelry ambition within that system I accept it. One drawback however is the absence of vintage jewelry like those famous Martin Katz collection Mughal earrings Nicole Kidman wore with the Galliano dress, or the Fred Leighton necklace Michelle Williams wore with the yellow Vera Wang. I don’t even have to show you an image and you remember those moments. That’s the power of those pieces. Are we seeing a slow return of vintage to the red carpet? At the SAG Awards Carey Mulligan wore a major 1930s Boivin necklace from Fred Leighton, and last night she chose old mine cut diamond earrings from the jeweler. Margot Robbie too went Fred Leighton: a 1930s Belperron ring and a 1980s Boivin cuff. And Grace Gummer was spotted in an Art Deco-era sautoir from Briony Raymond Estate. This is a developing story.

The Renaissance Portrait

I went to go see a show of Moroni portraits when we were in Milan for fashion week and I found myself zooming in on the collars and necks of the women on the paintings. The layering of necklaces is quite extraordinary, and though it’s a practice that can be seen in art as far back as ancient Egypt, Renaissance portraits have it on full and colorful display (the new European Galleries at the Met are another great place to study the practice). Of course it has roots in the display of wealth and status and access, but they also look pretty great. As did Charlize Theron in a Boucheron choker and layers of necklaces (all from a new Boucheron collection), Emily Blunt in those two Tiffany necklaces, and Florence Pugh in her twists of that Bulgari Serpenti. It draws such focused attention to the face. And the art of layering well creates a kind of “if you know you know” atmosphere of status. It says, “I’m not afraid.”

The Gold Standards

Diamonds and platinum are so dominant on the red carpet that I always find myself searching for the star who dares to pivot and wear yellow gold instead. There is so much glamour attached to that golden hue—so 1940s movie star and 1980s Carrington. Rita Moreno in the Verdura Twisted Horn ear clips and Lily bracelet makes my case, I think. But I also thought the Pomellato gold and pink stone necklace America Ferrara wore with the pink sequined Versace made it all glow even more. And Julianne Hough with the white dress and all that Vhernier Italian gold was, in a word, gleaming. Also, I mean, Oscar himself is a yellow gold guy, isn’t he?

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