Big Wave Surfer Kai Lenny Breaks Down the XXL Swell Headed for Sunset Beach

The holding period for the Hurley Pro at Sunset Beach kicked off two days ago.

As the second stop on the WSL's Championship Tour, it's the last CT contest on the North Shore before the Rip Curl Pro in Portugal.

An XXL swell is on the way, but according to Kai Lenny's surf report below, we shouldn't get too excited just yet.

The WSL captioned the post above:

"Bringing you @kai_lenny with an update on the #HurleyProSunsetBeach forecast"

"Aloha everyone, Kai Lenny here, coming to you with the forecast for the WSL Hurley Sunset Beach Pro. Right now the waves are flat, but Thursday and Friday the waves are gonna be absolutely huge."

But like the Eddie, Sunset won't go—yet.

According to Lenny:

"The problem is there's westerly winds that are onshore here in Hawaii, and everything's gonna be shredded. So finding a corner to warm up surf is gonna be difficult, but the good news is, come Saturday, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, it's gonna be pumping Sunset Beach."

He explains—with weatherman-like knowledge giving Hawaii's iconic weatherman Guy Hagi a run for his money—the details of the swell and how it'll affect Sunset.

The good news? He's confident the "waves are gonna hold thanks to conditions ideal for Sunset's West Bowl, the original big wave spot."

"I think we're gonna see some major charging," he adds.

Lenny prophesizes that surfers will be "knifing off the peak, getting barreled coming out, and doing two big wraps before hitting the big end section."

He adds that he's excited to see everyone's strategies.

"Do they ride a 7'3 like John John or do you ride a 6'6 to 6'10? Are people gonna be taking off halfway out or all the way out at that peak?" he asks.

Answering his own question, he says, "I think what everyone's gonna end up doing is whatever the judges are scoring really high."

After more detail, he says, "See ya' in the water."

In the comments, his fans were psyched about his surf report ability, including surf legend Tom Carrol. Scroll through to check it out.

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