The Best Watch of 2023, According to the Watch Illuminati

Cam Wolf
·10 min read
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On Friday, I shared the first part of GQ’s annual Watch Survey, in which our panel of 46 mega collectors, retailers, vintage dealers, auction-house specialists, journalists, and influencers weighed in on the best watch brands of 2023. But I also asked the panelists to share their thoughts on several more topics, focused mainly on specific watches. Below, the Watch Illuminati weighs in on the best watches of the year, the pieces they’d buy with $1,000, $10,000, or $100,000, and the most desirable timepiece in the world. See the full survey results here.

The 2023 Watch of the Year

The final rankings are*:

Much like the Brand of the Year results, Rolex and Cartier were neck and neck as the final votes for Watch of the Year trickled in. It’s hard to argue with the final result, though. The Rolex Daytona is one of the most important watches in the world and it’s admirable that the Normale came so close to knocking off this version of the Crown stalwart. The special-edition of the Daytona is a tribute to the grail-y “Paul Newman” variation of the watch, with moon-white subdials and throwback lettering.

Naturally, the results for the year’s best watch garnered less consensus than the best brands given how much deeper the pool is for the former. What I found interesting about the votes was how collectors were equally reverent of special-editions from the massive brands and more distinctive pieces from newcomers. Case in point: the love for Simon Brette—despite producing only 12 watches in 2023—continues on unabated. His Chronomètre Artisans, which also took home the GPHG prize for “Horological Revelation,” left a massive impression on the watch world.

Last thing: I was really glad to see the love for Chopard’s L.U.C. 1860, a personal favorite of mine from this year. Anyway, at long last, here’s what the voters had to say for themselves.

Geoff Hess, head of watches for the Americas, Sotheby's: The Rolex Le Mans Daytona represents an exciting willingness to embrace vintage design, highlighting the iconic Paul Newman and Big Red Daytona dials, the importance of which cannot be overemphasized.

@Bazamu, GQ’s Watch Collector of the Year 2022: Rolex Daytona ‘Le Mans’. One of the first new releases from Rolex with a direct link to its vintage catalog. It's hard to deny that the watch is pure badassery.

Brynn Wallner, founder, @Dimepiece: Cartier Baignoire. The hype around this watch seemed to really transcend the "watch media" c*rcle j*rk and reveals the exciting possibilities of femme-forward watches for this modern era.

Brit Peters, founder, TiccTacc: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80. This watch has a Gerald Genta lookalike design. It beats all Vacherons, Audemars Piguets, and other high-end luxury watches with a pure, sharp-edged design. It’s a prize fighter—and they even have a full-lume dial version available.

Alessandro Fanciulli (AKA Mr.A), founder, Avocado Vintage Watches: The Casio G-Shock G-D001, designed with generative AI, marks the transition of watchmaking into a brave new world.

Tania Edwards, co-founder, Collectability: Patek Philippe 5224R. An elegant re-working of a useful complication.

Other watches that received multiple votes (in order of votes received): Petermann Bedat reference 2941 Split Second Chronograph, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph, Tudor Black Bay 54, Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Antimagnetique, Rolex GMT-Master II (new all-gold model), carbon Bulgari Octo Finissimo, Patek Philippe Aquanaut Perpetual Calendar, Xhevdet Rexhepi Minute Inerte, Louis Vuitton Tambour, Cartier Tank Américaine, Rolex Oyster Perpetual “Celebration”, Rolex Day-Date “Jigsaw”

*A quick explanation of the methodology: I asked all voters to vote for their first, second, and third brands of the year. I then weighted those votes to come up with the final point tally. This is exactly how they decide the NBA MVP, so it’s super legit.

The Most Desirable Watch in the World

When I posed this question last year, the results were mixed mostly between three watches: the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, the Rolex Daytona, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. And while the Daytona still got plenty of love in the category, the results swerved in a very Cartier direction in 2023.

Kristian Haagen, super collector and author: I am not going to say a Patek Philippe Nautilus or a Rolex Daytona. Instead I’d say either a Cartier Crash (vintage London pieces especially) or Cintrée. Cartier is [receiving] enormous attention these years and it looks good on them. Of the two mentioned, I’d wear the Cintrée and feel like a gentleman of yesteryear’s Hollywood royalty.

Zoe Abelson, founder, Graal Limited: I think the Rolex Daytona Paul Newman still takes the cake amongst watch collectors, although the Cartier Crash has gained global hype status even amongst non-watch collectors.

Sean Song, founder, S.Song Watches: Cartier Crash. Iconic, nothing like it before and there will be nothing like it again.

Wallner: Cartier Crash. When non-watch people drool over it, that's how you know.

Kelly Yoch, director of client relations, Watches of Switzerland: Right now it’s a Cartier Crash….tomorrow it will be different.

Sacha Davidofff, co-founder, Roy & Sacha Davidoff S.A: The one that hasn’t come to market yet. I would guess it to be John Lennon’s [Patek Philippe] 2499, which is apparently being held in Geneva due to a custody battle.

Mr.A: One of the most desirable watches has to be the Rolex Daytona: a classic in every configuration, from million-dollar-fetching vintage Paul Newman dials to the ultra-bling Rainbow modern editions. It is a forever classic.

Ben Clymer, founder, Hodinkee: Rexhep Rexhep Chronomètre Contemporain II. In my 15-plus years of doing this, I've never seen a watchmaker rise to such prominence so quickly, let alone in his early 30s. The demand for his RRCCII is simply astounding—for a $125,000 time only watch that "looks like nothing." Back in the day, only the hardest of hardcore collectors would care about such a thing—a la [Philippe] Dufour Simplicity—but now everyone knows what it is and everyone wants it. With the two rose gold RRCC1s trading for around $900,000 after a retail of [$55,000], the RRCC2's street value would be well above $1 million right now and the demand for the 100 watches is well into the thousands. And frankly, it might actually be warranted. It is one of the best watches I've ever seen, top to bottom.

Eric Ku, co-founder, Loupe This: Rexhep Rexhepi CC II.

The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II
The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II

Jessica Owens, founder, Daily Grail: From a price/rare perspective it will always be the [Patek Philippe] 2499. With modern [watches] in the mix, this past year it’s hard to not say the Rolex Jigsaw.

Jaclyn Li, super collector, co-host of “The Waiting List” podcast: Patek Philippe 2497R with Vichet case and first series dial layout for me.

Which watch are you buying if you have $100,000, $10,000, and $1,000?

One of my favorite questions asks the Watch Illuminati which watch they would personally buy at a variety of price levels. Throw out the importance to the industry, the trends, and the significance of a certain piece—this is all about deeply personal taste.

At $100,000:

Sam Fremstar, super collector: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quantième Perpétuel, ref. 26574.

Wei Koh, founder, The Rake and Revolution: Simon Brette, F.P. Journe Optimum. Rolex Daytona ‘Le Mans’.

Ronny Chieng, super collector and actor: “Big Crown” Rolex Submariner reference 6538 with "Four-Line Dial”.

Adam Golden, founder, Menta Watches: At retail, Simon Brette Chronometre Artisans or Akrivia AK06. On the gray market (based on real world pricing), MB&F LM101.

Nick Ferrell, founder, DC Vintage Watches: Rolex GMT-Master Reference 6542 Bakelite. I have a sickness for GMTs of any brand, a throwback to my time as a State Department diplomat.

Zach Blass, editor, Time and Tide: Cartier Tank Normale. Platinum variant is ultimate stealth wealth.

Eric Wind, owner, Wind Vintage: Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 5811G.

Jasper Lijfering, owner and CEO, Amsterdam Vintage Watches: Patek Philippe 3970. Historically important, aesthetically perfect, and mechanically marvelous.

James Lamdin, owner, Analog:Shift: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Ref. 403.035. This is arguably the most important watch of the past 30 years, and values are beginning to rise in a meaningful—and justifiable—way. Now's the time!

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Ref. 403.035
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Ref. 403.035

Paul Boutros, head of watches in America, Phillips: Rolex Day-Date 36 "Puzzle" ref. 128238. Whimsical, exceptional, and completely unexpected, it’s a modern re-interpretation of the extraordinary vintage Rolex watches made with cloisonné enamel dials during the early 1950s—the first Rolex to use an enamel dial in nearly seven decades.

Ben Dunn, founder, Watch Brothers London: Breguet Classique Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater. Although I fear my budget here might fall short now!

Jeff Stein, founder, On the Dash: F.P. Journe Perpetual Calendar, boutique edition…just to see what all the fuss is about.

At $10,000?

Jacek Kozubek, founder, Tropical Watch: White-gold Rolex Submariner 5513.

Robert-Jan Broer, founder, Fratello Magazine: TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox CBS2210.FC6534. A modern interpretation of an iconic 1960s Heuer chronograph.

Kathleen McGivney, CEO, RedBar: Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar. Where else can you get an in-house manufacture perpetual calendar movement for under $10,000? Nowhere.

The Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar
The Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar

Haagen: I’d go for a 36 mm Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration Dial. And spend the change on a nice weekend in Estoril, Portugal, while enjoying that happy dial in the Portuguese sun.

Tim Mosso, media director, WatchBox: Reservoir Longbridge British Racing—a triple complication for simple watch money

Cameron Ross Steiner, founder and host, Collectors Gene Radio: Patek 3796—I love this watch and think it is going to be a popular one this year. Despite its size at 30.5mm, it wears so elegantly and larger than most would think.

Edwards: A Patek Philippe pocket watch designed by Gilbert Albert if I could find one for $10k!

Cameron Barr, founder and CEO, Craft & Tailored: Zenith Chronomaster Original Tri-Color, Ref: 03.3200.3600/69.M3200. It combines the classic aesthetics of the original Zenith A386 with the brand's contemporary watchmaking ability.

Ferrell: Seiko 5718-8000 chronograph. Legendary first Seiko chrono made for the first Olympics held in Asia: Tokyo 1964.

At $1,000?

Henry Flores, founder, Classic Watch Club: Baltic.

Justin Hast, photographer and editor, The Watch Annual: Baltic Hermétique.

Matt Hranek, founder and editor, Wm Brown Magazine: Serica.

Blass: Baltic MR01 Gold PVD. Baltic excels at this price point.

Broer: Tissot PRX 40. A great watch for everyday use, inspired by Tissot's heritage with a nod to the Rolex OysterQuartz

Davidoff: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 with a green dial.

Golden: Anything Furlan Marri.

Ferrell: Pretty much anything made by WMT, a fantastic microbrand out of Singapore with some wild watch designs (a pixelated Nintendo 8-bit inspired sub? YES PLEASE!).

McGivney: Studio Underd0g Field Collection Pink Lemonade. The second collection from Studio Underd0g is just as playful as the first, but in field watch form this time. Its dial also has a luminous base, and I'm a sucker for a dial that glows.

Owens: Furlan Marri x Seconde/Seconde Hertz Beat.

Davide Parmegiani, co-chairman, Monaco Legend Auctions: Omega x Swatch Speedmaster, very cool interpretation of a contemporary Speedmaster model.

Hess: With a bit under $1,000 I'm buying a Brew watch from the Metric line. The creative retro dials are instant show-stoppers.

Chieng: Jack Mason Dr Pepper GMT.

Roni Madhvani, super collector: Vintage Universal Geneve, Longines, and Movado. Dan Henry.

Mike Nouveau, King of WatchTok: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm, a low priced icon.

Mosso: Mido Ocean Star 200: peerless value and mechanical interest for money

Mr.A: Furlan Marri—indisputably the best microbrand out there

Please meet our esteemed panel of experts, listed in alphabetical order:

Originally Appeared on GQ