The best restaurants in Barcelona
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Barcelona's impressive food scene covers all manner of Spanish cuisines. Head to the maritime district of Barceloneta if it's paella you're after, but if you want traditional Catalan dishes it's best to stick inland in Barri Gòtic or Gràcia where you'll find tiled dining rooms and plenty of pa amb tomàquet (bread rubbed with tomato) and hearty fare. And of course, there are tapas everywhere – from downright classics on charming squares to modern versions at hip restaurants following in the footsteps of Ferran Adrià. Telegraph Travel's Barcelona expert Sally Davies shares her favourites here. Do note that many restaurants close in August for several weeks, or the whole month.
Barri Gòtic
Can Culleretes
The second oldest restaurant in Spain, with a mention in Guinness World Records. Can Culleretes has been around since 1786, and many of its waitresses act like they have too. These redoubtable matrons chivvy customers into one of three main dining rooms, tiled and hung with oil paintings and photos of happy patrons, and then serve them no-nonsense but tasty Spanish dishes at really good prices. Try the wild boar stew, the partridge or the seafood 'pica pica' of plates to share. It can get busy with tourists, however, so you might want to book a later table.
Contact: 00 34 93 317 30 22; culleretes.com
Opening times: See website
Prices: ££
Reservations: Recommended
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Bar Celta
One thing Barcelona is short on is decent old-fashioned tapas bars, but the bright and noisy Bar Celta has been plugging this hole in the market for over 40 years. It specialises in dishes from Galicia, and its house tapa is pulpo a feira – boiled octopus sprinkled with paprika and served on a wooden platter. The chocos (fat rings of fried squid, served with lemon quarters) are also a favourite, but plenty of other tapas standards are served, from patatas bravasto tortilla, all of them washed down with Galician Ribeira wine drunk from white ceramic bowls.
Contact: 00 34 93 315 00 06; barcelta.com
Opening times: Tue-Sun, 12pm-12am
Prices: £
Reservations: Recommended
Bar Pinotxo
The most popular of the counter bars in the Boqueria market. Pinotxo has been going for more than 70 years and famously attracts top local chefs, including Ferran Adrià. Expect to queue for a coveted stool at the bar, where Juanito Bayen, the charismatic owner in his trademark bow tie, holds court. There’s no menu, but you can inspect the platters displayed along the counter and ask for the daily specials. Try the house classics such as the txipirons amb mongetes (baby squid and beans) and the truita de carxofes (artichoke omelette).
Contact: 00 34 647 869 821; pinotxobar.com
Opening times: Mon-Sat, 6.30am-4pm
Prices: ££
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Cafè de l'Acadèmia
Summer is really when Cafè de l'Acadèmia comes into its own, thanks to its terrace on the peaceful Plaça Sant Just, below the steps to the church of Sants Just i Pastor and next to a 14th-century drinking fountain. It's cosy in winter, too, in the bare-bricked dining room, but it can get a little cramped (mostly with the Catalan politicians who come here from the nearby City Hall). The restaurant specialises in those dishes that Catalans have appropriated for their own and made traditional – stuffed cannelloni, risotto, magret de pato. Be warned that the restaurant is closed at weekends.
Contact: 00 34 93 319 82 53
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 1pm-3.30pm, 8pm-11pm. Closed for two weeks in August
Prices: ££
Reservations: Recommended
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Milk
Milk performs all sorts of functions. It's a stylish but relaxed place for a late-night drink, a restaurant that feels more like a really good pub (with grub to match – from homemade burgers and steak sandwiches, to smoked salmon fishcakes and the occasional foray into Asian cuisine), and it's a great place for a relaxed brunch with the papers. Choose from eggs Benedict, blueberry pancakes or just a good old-fashioned fry-up, and maybe treat yourself to a bloody Mary or a mimosa. Best of all, you can rock up for brunch any time up to 4.30pm.
Contact: 00 34 93 268 09 22; milkbarcelona.com
Opening times: Mon-Thu, Sun, 9am-2am; Fri, Sat, 9am-3am
Prices: £
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El Portalón
A former medieval stable, which nowadays houses a lively tapas bar. Despite occasional attempts to bring it into the 21st-century (witness the gleaming glass case underneath which tapas are ranged along the bar), El Portalón remains wonderfully old-fashioned. Expect wine from terracotta jugs and nothing too fancy in the way of décor or cuisine. Order big slabs of pa amb tomàquet (bread rubbed with tomato, Catalan-style), and then charcuterie and cheeses to go with it. It's quite popular with tourists early on in the evening – arrive a little later (around 10pm) if you'd rather eat with the locals.
Contact: 00 34 93 302 11 87; elportalonbarcelona.com
Opening times: Mon-Sat, 9am-12am. Closed Jan, Aug
Prices: £
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Pla
This romantic, candle-lit restaurant has preserved the high vaulted ceilings and brick arches of the historic building it occupies, but boldly painted walls and contemporary artworks give it a relaxed, modern feel. The Mediterranean menu might include starters such as a melon and raspberry gazpacho, or baba ganoush with smoked eel and green apple, and main courses such as roast chicken with wild mushrooms or seared tuna with a choice of dipping sauces. Don’t miss out on dessert: the trio of blood orange sorbets comes recommended. Vegetarians and those on gluten-free diets will find plenty of choice.
Contact: 00 34 93 412 65 52; restaurantpla.cat
Opening times: Mon-Thu, Sun, 7pm-11.30pm; Fri, Sat, 7pm-12am
Prices: £££
Reservations: Recommended
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Els Quatre Gats
The Four Cats is worth visiting for its building alone – a handsome Modernista affair, by Gaudí's contemporary Puig i Cadafalch. It also has a colourful history as a former watering hole of Picasso and the artists of the time. The tiled and galleried interior is just as stunning, and though the Mediterranean food is not quite up to the surroundings, it is decent enough. If you don't feel like a full meal but are intrigued to see the place, you can always have a coffee in the bar at the front.
Contact: 00 34 93 302 41 40; 4gats.com
Opening times: Daily, 1pm-4pm, 7pm-1am
Prices: £££
Reservations: Recommended
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Les Quinze Nits
The Andilana group now owns a staggering 14 restaurants around town, and though they all have different names, they all work on the same principles – extremely elegant dining rooms in attractive old buildings, with creative Mediterranean dishes at budget prices. These include all manner of fish and meat dishes, and some colourful salads. Les Quinze Nits was the first branch and continues to be the most popular, with queues snaking across the Plaça Reial (there is a no-bookings policy), but you can always try your luck at nearby branch La Fonda (C/Escudellers 10), which may have a shorter queue.
Contact: 00 34 93 317 30 75; grupandilana.com
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 1pm-3.45pm, 7.30pm-11.30pm; Fri, Sat, 1pm-11.30pm; Sun, 12.30pm-11pm
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible
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Shunka
An excellent Japanese restaurant hidden down a side street near the cathedral. Time was, you would often see Ferran Adrià in here. However, a shake-up a few years ago meant that some of Shunka's finest chefs were moved to a new branch round the corner, Koy Shunka, which promptly gained a Michelin star, and this one was slightly relegated to second position. This one is far cheaper, however, and does what you'd expect – all varieties of sushi, tempura, teriyaki, noodles and plenty more – and well. Reserve a seat up at the bar surrounding the kitchen for a really good show.
Contact: 00 34 93 412 49 91
Opening times: Tue-Sun, 1.30pm-4pm, 8.30pm-11.30pm. Closed Aug and 2 weeks at Christmas
Prices: ££
Reservations: Recommended
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La Vinateria del Call
Don't be put off by the television screen at the entrance, showing brightly lit and frankly unappetising pictures of the food on offer – it gives a very misleading impression of this atmospheric and cosy little restaurant. Dishes are sourced from mostly local producers, and include wonderful artisanal cheeses, cured meats and so on, designed to be served with a mountain of tomato bread and shared between friends. It's also a good place to order Catalan classics such as esqueixada (salt-cod salad) and escalivada (smoky chargrilled aubergine, onion and red pepper, served cold). The homemade fig ice cream is especially good.
Contact: 00 34 93 302 60 92; lavinateriadelcall.com
Opening times: Daily, 7.30pm-1am
Prices: ££
Reservations: Recommended
Born
El Atril
Here, you can sit in the stone-walled dining room or under umbrellas on the little Plaça de Sant Cugat. In season, one of the best things to order is a big bowl of moules et frites, but there's plenty more to choose from, including nods to the previous Australian ownership in the shape of kangaroo steak. The restaurant changed hands in 2017, but has stayed faithful to its roots (and menu). Brunch is served at weekends, and there is a good fixed-price lunch during the week.
Contact: 00 34 93 310 12 20; elatrilbarcelona.es
Opening times: Sun-Thu, 11am-11.30pm; Fri, Sat, 11am-12am
Prices: ££
Bormuth
A split-level tapas bar that opens out on to two streets. Bormuth is friendly, lively and has reliably good food. The selection of tapas includes fresh options such as lentil salad and tabbouleh, along with all the classic croquetas, tortilla and so on, but my favourite is the fried aubergine drizzled with honey (a Cordoban recipe). Go at lunchtime to make the most of the three tapas and a drink for €8.50(£7.50) offer – if there are two or three of you, order the widest variety possible. Get there early for the tables in the open-fronted section facing the Born Centre.
Contact: 00 34 93 310 21 86; bormuth.blogspot.com.es
Opening times: Sun-Thu, 12.30pm-1.30am; Fri-Sat 12.30pm-2.30am
Prices: £
Reservations: Recommended
Cal Pep
Not quite a tapas bar, not quite a seafood restaurant. Cal Pep does have a cosy dining room at the back, but if you sit there you'll miss all the fun. Better to stand up at the bar (or wait your turn patiently behind those at the bar) and watch Pep and his men working the stoves. There is no shtick here apart from superbly fresh seafood, served simply and on plates designed for sharing. Non-fish eaters will also find plenty to eat, however – try the 'atomic tortilla' with butter beans and blood sausage.
Contact: 00 34 93 310 79 61; calpep.com
Opening times: See website
Prices: ££
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Casa Delfín
Casa Delfín used to be something of a Mediterranean greasy spoon, serving deep-fried fish to workers, and there was much hand-wringing when it was sold and spruced up. The new owners did a great job, however, and preserved the spirit of the menu as well of many of the features of the bright and airy interior. Try chickpeas, spinach and black pudding to start, perhaps, followed by liver and onions with sherry or roast lamb with rosemary and thyme. The terrace is the place to sit, if the weather allows, and is open year round.
Contact: 00 34 93 319 50 88; casadelfinrestaurant.com
Opening times: Mon-Thu, Sun, 8am-12am; Fri, Sat, 8am-1am
Prices: ££
Kiosko
Burger bars are now huge in Barcelona, but this was the first, and is still the best. The burgers are huge and come with a variety of toppings. You have to be quite hungry to tackle the Suiza (with potato rosti and Gruyère), for example, but it's certainly worth it if you are. It can be hard to get a table, but nicer by far is to take your burger out and eat it in nearby Ciutadella park. There is a smaller, less crowded branch called Bacoa at C/Colomines 2, near Santa Caterina market, though its hours are more limited.
Contact: 00 34 93 310 73 13; bacoaburger.com
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 1pm-12am; Fri-Sun, 1pm-1am
Prices: £
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Mosquito
Mosquito seems to change its identity every few years, but the basic concept is cheap, quick and good Asian food. For the time being, that means Chinese dim sum, with a few other dishes from around the continent – Japanese gyoza dumplings, edamame, and noodle dishes – thrown in for good measure. My favourite is the Vietnamese pho (a steaming beef broth into which you stir herbs, chopped chilli and beansprouts to taste), though sadly this is only available at lunchtime. It can get quite chaotic in the cramped bar area – book one of the tables at the back if you can.
Contact: 00 34 93 268 75 69; mosquitotapas.com
Opening times: Mon, 7.30pm-1am; Tue-Sun, 1pm-1am
Prices: £
Reservations: Recommended
Raval
Casa Leopoldo
Casa Leopoldo is a real classic, and the city's literati, among others, have been coming here for decades for straightforward seafood dishes served in bright, unpretentious surroundings. Owner Rosa had been working the tables since the Seventies, when she took over from her parents, until 2017, when the restaurant was taken over by fêted young chefs Oscar Manresa and Romain Fornell, who see little reason to fix what ain't broke, and have kept classic dishes such as the oxtail stew braised in Priorat wine. It has rapidly become the Old City's hot ticket, so make sure you book in advance.
Contact: 00 34 93 441 30 14; casaleopoldo.es
Opening times: Daily, 1pm-11pm
Prices: ££
Reservations: Essential
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Elisabets
Elisabets is a wonderfully old-school place, with little by way of decoration but for a few old radio sets dotted around the walls. It specialises in the sort of food your grandmother used to make. No-frills, huge portions of osso buco and other stewy delights are served up as part of the fixed-price menu, though there is an à la carte menu, too. Elisabets works almost as two establishments: a bar serving tapas and a huge range of sandwiches from early in the morning until late at night, and a restaurant at lunchtime.
Contact: 00 34 93 317 58 26; elisabets1962.com
Opening times: See website
Prices: £
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Luzia
From the caprese salad to the chicken wings with barbecue sauce, and various pizzas and pasta dishes to a fat juicy steak with béarnaise sauce, there is almost no global standard that has been left off the menu at Lúzia. However, you won’t find much by way of local cuisine, except for some rather good ham croquetas. It's a fun place to eat, and a handy one (being just a few steps from La Rambla), especially if you don’t have all afternoon – try the roast beef sandwich with gherkins, mortadella and mustard if you’re just after a quick, lightish lunch.
Contact: 00 34 93 342 96 28; grupotragaluz.com
Opening times: Mon-Thu, Sun, 12pm-11.30pm; Fri, Sat, 12pm-12.30am
Prices: ££
Reservations: Not necessary
Los Toreros
Bullfighting is unpopular in progressive Catalunya, but still lives on in the heart of this lively and charmingly faded restaurant, where photos of matadors (toreros), bulls' heads and the like still grace the walls. Beyond a long list of tapas, there's not an extensive choice of main courses. The set menus don't involve anything fancy, but do include huge slabs of grilled meat, or a mountain of paella (and house wine is included in the price). The waiters are wonderfully helpful, and this is a good place to come with children.
Contact: 00 34 93 318 23 25; restaurantelostoreros.com
Opening times: Daily, 5pm-12am
Prices: £
Gràcia
Botafumeiro
Named for the enormous incense-burner that hangs in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, this is one of the city's top traditional seafood restaurants. The wood-panelled walls, crisp white linen tablecloths, and flotilla of long-aproned waiters make it an elegant and convivial place to dine. The freshest seafood on the market is collected each morning from harbours in Catalunya and Galicia, and served up just hours later. It’s worth pushing the boat out on the mariscada, a heaped platter containing all manner of delicacies, from percebes, the highly prized Galician barnacles, to razor clams and oysters.
Contact: 00 34 93 218 42 30; botafumeiro.es
Opening times: Daily, 12pm-2am
Prices: £££
Reservations: Recommended
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Café Godot
This stylish and inviting café features exposed brick walls, simple wooden tables, low lighting and a jazzy soundtrack. There’s a huge marble table in the window, ideal for a big brunch with friends, and a cute corner where children can play with toys and a blackboard. The menu provides plenty of choice, from bistro classics such as burgers (beef and veggie versions), quiches and salads, to more elaborate meals such as fresh pasta with pumpkin or duck confit. The weekend brunch (offered 12pm-7.30pm) is not to be missed, with some of the best eggs Benedict in town.
Contact: 00 34 93 368 20 36; cafegodot.com
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 10am-1am; Sat, Sun, 11am-2am
Prices: ££
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Envalira
The place to come for good old-fashioned cooking in an unpretentious setting. It's not going to win any design awards, but Envalira can't be faulted on value. The speciality is paella and other rice dishes (such as arròs negre, the Catalan version made with squid ink), but this is also a good place to try dishes from all over Spain, particularly Galicia. Try, for example, tarta de Santiago, the Galician answer to bakewell tart. The restaurant is brightly lit and austerely (un)decorated, but if you book a table at the front near the bar you'll feel a little less hemmed in.
Contact: 00 34 93 218 58 13; envalirarestaurant.com
Opening times: See website
Prices: ££
Reservations: Recommended
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Gelateria Caffeteria Italiana
The last few years have seen a tidal wave of ice cream parlours opening in Barcelona, but for most people this family-run gelateria will always remain unbeatable. A refurb saw away with the olive-green wood panelling and 1960s fonts, sadly, but the ice cream is still made and sold fresh every day, with the purest ingredients. It's hard to pick a favourite, but the fig is a speciality, and the liquorice is good for novelty value. There is a second, smaller branch in the Born at Placeta de Montcada 12, near the Picasso Museum.
Contact: 00 34 93 210 23 39
Opening times: Mon-Thu, Sun 12pm-1am; Fri, Sat, 12pm-2am
Prices: £
Reservations: Not possible
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Pepa Tomate
A sunny corner café and restaurant, with a cheerfully eclectic approach to décor. There's a short list of dishes that manages to cater to most tastes, whether you're after a fat burger and chips, a toasted sandwich or something a little more sophisticated – tomato salad with tuna belly, for example, or duck tataki with chimichurri sauce. Portions are generous, but leave room if you can for the creamy tiramisu, served in a Kilner jar. It's a great place to come with children, with a playground just outside and friendly waiters who will provide crayons to draw on the paper placemats.
Contact: 00 34 93 210 46 98; pepatomategrup.com
Opening times: See website
Prices: £
San Kil
For something a little different, head to this bright Korean restaurant, down a quiet Gràcia side street. The waitresses normally dictate what you should order, for this is the way of things at San Kil, but push for the seafood omelette to start, or the bulgogi – pork or beef cooked at the table and eaten rolled in lettuce leaves. There are also some good spicy fish dishes (try the calamari, for example), though very little for strict vegetarians. You can eat really well here, but be warned – Korean beer is probably not the best lager in the world.
Contact: 00 34 93 284 41 79
Opening times: Mon-Sat, 1pm-3.30pm, 8.30pm-11.30pm. Closed three weeks in Aug
Prices: ££
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Les Tres a la Cuina
Not much more than a deli with a couple of tables, Les Tres is nonetheless a really great lunch stop if you get there in time (or reserve). It's family-run and uses only the freshest and best ingredients. The globe-trotting menu changes daily, and always includes a vegetarian option as good as any you're likely to find; think polenta with passata and goat's cheese, or a tasty garlic tart. Also superb are the weekend brunches, where you'll find eggs done every which way, along with burgers and cakes.
Contact: 00 34 93 105 49 47; lestresalacuina.com
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 1pm-4pm. Closed August
Prices: £
Reservations: Recommended
Eixample
Alkimia
There is a kind of alchemy going on at this restaurant where the deconstructed, theatrical takes on Catalan standards show Ferran Adrià's influence. An opening salvo of deconstructed pa amb tomàquet (the traditional bread rubbed with tomato) in a shot glass is just the beginning. Jordi Vilà is a serious chef, with a Michelin star to prove it, and his dining room has a serious air. The restaurant sits within the microbrewery and gastro space of the Fábrica Moritz, and now has a separate dining area with a simpler, more accessible (read also: cheaper) menu.
Contact: 00 34 93 207 61 15; alkimia.cat
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 1.30pm-3.30pm, 8pm-10.30pm
Prices: £££
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Chez Coco
This is the place to come for a date, if you can get one of its cosy high-backed booths. It's a charming space, with many original features such as oak panelling and a tiled mosaic floor. More recent decorative additions include plunging chandeliers, cobalt blue upholstery on the booths, and an open kitchen hung with copper pans, where various kinds of bird roast slowly on rotating spits. The menu is French and fairly ambitious, but the best bet is to stick to the fried poussin and fat wedge chips, which are excellent and reasonably priced.
Contact: 00 34 93 444 98 22; chezcoco.es
Opening times: Daily, 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm
Prices: ££
Reservations: Recommended
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Cinc Sentits
Every accolade has been deservedly heaped on Cinc Sentits and its haute take on Catalan cuisine. To maximise the diner's experience of what chef Jordi Artal can do, these days the restaurant only serves fixed menus – four courses for €100 (£90) or six courses for €120 (£108). Expect dishes such as pigeon served three ways, including a paper pouch containing 'false rice' made from its thigh, and some table-side theatre. The restaurant is also known for its wine selection, and wine pairings are available for each menu. At lunchtime there is a €55 (£49) Business menu.
Contact: 00 34 93 323 94 90; cincsentits.com
Opening times: Tue-Sat, 1.30pm-3pm, 8.30pm-10.30pm
Prices: £££
Reservations: Essential
Tapas 24
Michelin-starred chef Carles Abellan describes this side venture as 'classic tapas', but that is only half the picture. Although it's modelled on tapas bars of yesteryear (its glass frontage is painted with menu items and jolly prawns, as those of all good tapas bars used to be) and it does serve Russian salad and ham croquettes, it does them like nobody else. It also has the odd more outré offering – my personal favourite is the McFoie Burger, which is heaven in a minuscule bun. The bar does not take reservations, so it's best to avoid peak times if you can.
Contact: 00 34 93 488 09 77; carlesabellan.com
Opening times: Daily, 9am-12am
Prices: ££
Reservations: Not possible
Barceloneta
Agua
The mighty Tragaluz group runs an ever-expanding bunch of decent restaurants in Barcelona, but Agua is the most fun for its laid-back atmosphere, sunny, split-level dining room and view out to sea. It does get quite busy, but there's a comfortable reception area with a bar, where you can order something to nibble on while you wait. The main menu covers the Mediterranean basics, from paella to spankingly fresh fish, along with really tasty steaks, creative salads and plenty of child-friendly dishes. Book well ahead for a table on the terrace, which sits right on the edge of the sand.
Contact: 00 34 93 225 12 72; grupotragaluz.com
Opening times: Sun-Thu, 12pm-11.30pm; Fri-Sat, 12pm-12.30am
Prices: ££
Reservations: Recommended
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Can Ramonet
There's no shortage of paella restaurants in the maritime district of Barceloneta, but Can Ramonet is one of the oldest – it has been around since 1956. It's also one of the best, and you'd do best to book, although there's a great tapas bar to keep you occupied while you wait: as well as the shellfish, try the croquetas ofjamón ibéricoor the spicy potato bombas. Net-fresh fish and paella are the main draw, but if that doesn't appeal, there are also juicy steaks. If you can't get a table here, try the smaller branch, El Nou Ramonet, nearby at C/Carbonell 5.
Contact: 00 34 93 319 30 64; grupramonet.com
Opening times: Daily, 12pm-12am
Prices: ££
Reservations: Recommended
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Can Solé
Another of Barceloneta's excellent paella restaurants, this one a little more upmarket than most (with prices to match), and attentive waiters – there can't be many restaurants that provide reading glasses to diners. There are two specialities: paella in various forms, and what is known as 'grandmother's spoon food' – steaming hotpots of chickpeas with chorizo, lentil and potato stew, onion soup with a poached egg and Emmental stirred through it, and so on. There is a quiet dining room upstairs, but the best place to sit is downstairs by the open kitchen where you can watch the action.
Contact: 00 34 93 221 50 12; restaurantcansole.com
Opening times: See website
Prices: £££
Reservations: Recommended
Kaiku
Though it has much in common with your traditional paella restaurant (seaside location, nautical trappings, jovial waiters), Kaiku is much more than that. The menu varies according to what's good in the market on any given week, but expect to find more than the usual 'shellfish or chicken' options. Here you might just as easily be offered a venison paella, and the vegetables – Jerusalem artichokes, fennel and the like – are grown in the owners' kitchen garden. Be sure to book ahead for a table on the terrace overlooking the beach. Note that in winter it only opens for lunch.
Contact: 00 34 93 221 90 82; restaurantkaiku.cat
Opening times: See website
Prices: ££
Reservations: Recommended
Set Portes
An elegant old paella and seafood restaurant, under an arcaded walkway down near the port. It's been around since 1836, and the great and the good to have graced its tables are immortalised in little plaques on the backs of the chairs. Despite its vast size – there are several dining rooms – and history, sympathetic lighting and accommodating waiters make it feel both cosy and friendly, something quite unusual in a restaurant of this stature. The food is excellent, respecting old recipes while occasionally adding a new twist. If you're feeling extravagant, go for the zarzuela – a tasty casserole with lobster.
Contact: 00 34 93 319 30 33; 7portes.com
Opening times: Daily, 1pm-1am
Prices: £££
Reservations: Recommended
Montjuic and Poble Sec
Tickets
It can be hell to get a table at Tickets, but if you never made it to elBulli and you want a taste of the Adrià magic (in this case Ferran's brother Albert), it's worth a shot. It pays homage to this former theatre district and theatrical allusions are everywhere, from the ticket booth to the circus awning. The food is tapas with a difference – a classic such as bread rubbed with tomato and topped with ham, for example, is turned on its head to become an impossibly light breadstick with ham coating the outside. Booking well in advance is essential.
Contact: ticketsbar.es
Opening times: See website
Prices: £££
Reservations: Essential
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Quimet i Quimet
Everybody's favourite tapas bar is about the same size as a large wardrobe, and it can be a struggle to abide by the 'no standing on the pavement' rule. It's still worth it, however, for the wonderful montaditos – delicate little arrangements balanced on a slice of French bread and made in front of your eyes. Highly recommended is the smoked salmon with cream cheese, soy sauce and honey, but there's no real list. The bar also specialises in wine (bottles of every vintage line the walls) and conservas (tinned seafood), most of which is surprisingly good.
Contact: 00 34 93 442 31 42
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 12pm-4pm, 7pm-10.30pm; Sat, 12pm-4pm. Closed August
Prices: £
La Bella Napoli
A hugely popular pizza restaurant, which serves a smattering of other dishes (try the gnocchi, for example, or the linguine al cartoccio with mussels and clams) and a range of Italian craft beers. The Neapolitan waiters move adeptly through the packed dining areas, and are famous for their charm – they will guide you through the menu, but it's hard to go wrong. The Sofia Loren pizza is a favourite, with provolone, rocket and bresaola, and the house pizza with aubergine, basil and parmesan is also good. Leave room for the homemade tiramisu, which is superb. You can also get pizzas to go.
Contact: 00 34 93 442 50 56; labellanapoli.es
Opening times: Daily, 1.30pm-4pm, 8.30pm-12am
Prices: ££
Reservations: Recommended
