The Best Motherduckin’ Carnitas Ever
Mexico isn’t a monolith, and neither are its cuisines. From the seafood dishes of Veracruz to El Norte’s famous artisanal cheeses, each region contributes its own distinct foods that make up the country’s larger culinary identity.
The state of Michoacán is credited for creating carnitas, something chef Edgar Rico enjoys often when visiting family in Uruapan. The traditional recipe made by slow-cooking pork in its own fat has become one of Mexico’s most ubiquitous foods. And at Rico’s restaurant, Nixta Taqueria in Austin, Texas, he uses the same technique—but with duck instead. Just like pork, duck is brimming with savory, luscious natural fat that helps create soft and tender meat.
It might look intimidating, but duck fat is much easier to cook with than you’d think. Bonus: It can be repurposed in nearly any recipe that calls for oil or butter. For example, Rico flavors all of the beans at Nixta with duck fat.
The foundation of Rico’s duck carnitas recipe starts with classic ingredients. Many chefs in Michoacán swear by adding Mexican Coca-Cola to carnitas to lend acidity and sweetness to the braising liquid. Rico also uses condensed milk to help tenderize the protein. After slow-roasting in its own fat and a signature blend of aromatics, the duck is so succulent and fall-off-the-bone tender. Rico serves his carnitas on a warm corn tortilla and tops it off with cilantro, onion, radish, salsa cruda, and a squeeze of lime.
And don’t forget the salsa macha. Another item you can find at Nixta Taqueria, this condiment dates back before colonization. Rather than using fresh chiles, salsa macha combines dried peppers and nuts in a savory infused oil. You can drizzle it on eggs, pizza—just about anything.
The backbone of any salsa macha is the chiles, and Rico uses three different types in his recipe. His personal favorite is ancho, which is a smoky dried poblano pepper with a flavor that almost resembles dried fruit. He supplements it with both pasilla and guajillo chiles. This combination is more smoky and savory than it is spicy—Rico even removes the seeds to make the finished salsa more mild.
Peanuts, sesame seeds, and garlic are commonly used in salsa macha. Rico's version honors tradition but supplements the recipe with Texas pecans, Mexican oregano, and apple cider vinegar. The most important ingredient, however, is time. After frying the ingredients in a neutral oil and blending them into a sauce, Rico suggests waiting at least a few days for the savory, earthy flavors to come together.
The best part? Since it's an oil-based condiment, it can stay in the fridge for months. While salsa macha pairs well with virtually anything, Rico especially loves drizzling it over seafood. Want to see how he prepares these iconic Mexican dishes? Check out the videos above.
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