The Best Menswear of 2023, From Brioni’s Tuxedos to L.E.J.’s Shirts
The Big Idea: Walk Softly
After what seems like an eternity of extremes, with lockdown sweatpants and hoodies at one end of the spectrum and celebratory “We’re back, baby!” eveningwear at the other, it feels like men’s style is finally settling into the 2020s. At the fashion shows earlier in the year, most brands presented collections that were grounded in modern menswear staples, with designs that felt sleek, sophisticated, and the opposite of shouty.
Now, well-cut jackets, full-length coats, finely tailored overshirts, and butter-soft leather blousons are the cornerstones of 2023’s wardrobe, care of brands such as the Row, Hermès, Alexander McQueen, and Zegna. Saint Laurent’s SS23 collection, which was unveiled in July last year during a show in Morocco’s Agafay desert, hinged on classically proportioned tailoring and a restrained mix of shirt-and-trouser pairings in cream, brown, and black. It’s as though men’s fashion has taken a Valium and is getting back to dressing us for real life.
In fact, the catwalks were noticeably lacking in loungewear this season; there wasn’t a drawstring waist to be seen. Instead, real pants are back: pleated, elegantly fitted, and often finished with generous cuffs. Logos are gone. Now, it’s all about the simple pleasures of subtle clothes—the reassuring softness of a silk-blend sweater or the delicate lines of a pair of hand-stitched loafers.
Moreover, this renewed focus on craft is meeting a sense of confidence in the work of designers such as Norbert Stumpfl at Brioni, Corneliani’s Paul Surridge, and Rhuigi Villaseñor at Bally, as well as this year’s chosen One to Watch, Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo. Fabrics eschew bold patterns for fine textures, colors are muted, and silhouettes are generous. There’s increased intention to create clothes to last in the world of independent brands, too, with companies such as Stòffa, in New York, or London’s Whitcomb & Shaftesbury building businesses that aim to minimize waste, encourage thoughtful shopping, and look after their people.
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What does this mean for your own wardrobe, then? If the past half decade has been characterized by contrasts—from bold formalwear to low-key streetwear, or from statement styling to a desire for cozy comfort—we’re now seeing an unabashed return to quality, with superior materials and refinement coming to the fore.
So put your faith in timeless choices and lean into the assurance it brings: A classically tailored overcoat, a lightweight cashmere knit, some serious sunglasses, and a handsome leather weekender are all you need to carry you through the year and beyond. Today, the finest menswear is quietly speaking volumes.
