If you’ve ever looked down at your black shirt to find “snowflakes” dusting your shoulders before (and beyond) winter, you know just how embarrassing and uncomfortable dandruff can be.
“A lot of people are ashamed of dandruff and think it’s a reflection of poor hygiene, but that doesn’t have anything to do with it,” says Francesca Fusco, M.D., assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai Hospital and board-certified dermatologist at Wexler Dermatology in New York City.
So, what exactly is dandruff? “Dandruff is essentially scalp flaking caused by inflammation,” explains board-certified dermatologist Joshua Zeichner, M.D., director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital. “This inflammation is driven by our skin reacting to yeast on the scalp. Yeast lives on everyone’s scalp, but some people react to it, leading to inflammation, itchy scalp, and flaky skin.”
The good news is that using an anti-dandruff shampoo—and the right washing technique—can make all the difference, says Dr. Fusco.
How to choose (and use) the best dandruff shampoo
Scan for active ingredients: Pyrithione zinc, selenium sulfide, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, and coal tar can all work to reduce dandruff, says Dr. Zeichner, but you may need to experiment a bit to find the one your scalp reacts to the best.
Note your hair type: The ingredients listed above are effective at banishing dandruff, but can sometimes feel a bit stripping if your locks need extra moisture. Especially for those with dry, coarse, curly, kinky, or coiled hair types, look for ingredients that will also hydrate the scalp and strands, like shea butter, coconut oil, and aloe vera.
Wash effectively: For best results, rub your dandruff shampoo into your scalp with your fingertips, letting it sit for at least five minutes before rinsing, Dr. Zeichner says. Make sure you pick up an anti-dandruff conditioner, too. Once you rinse, some of the dandruff-fighting ingredients are left behind to continue working, so using a regular conditioner might actually buff those active ingredients away, he notes.
Mind your frequency: Start by washing at least twice a week, says Dr. Fusco. Take note of how your scalp and hair looks and feels. If you don’t see results, work up to three or four days if needed. You might even find that you get the best results by washing daily—it all depends on how your scalp reacts to the product.
Now, ready to banish those pesky flakes for good? One of these expert-approved anti-dandruff shampoos should do the trick.